As the sun has set on what felt like a long, hazy summer, a new season is finally upon us. Not just any season either but autumn, the crisp, fresh start to a decidedly less hazy phase of the year. It also happens to be my favourite season, both in terms of the climate and sartorially speaking. What better way to (ahem) kick off said new season than with a brand new pair of shoes?
Perhaps a hangover from late August days spent shopping for new school shoes, inhaling the heady smell of shoe polish and refusing to try on anything but a pair of Kickers (fellow '90s kids, I see you), there's just nothing quite like new footwear.
Shoes are easier to buy than clothes, for a start. They're more democratic, existing outside of the complicated relationship you may or may not have with your body. Everyone loves new shoes. They can be shiny, comfy, vertiginous, practical. Very rarely, they're all of those things at once.
For autumn/winter 2023, there is a whiff of nostalgia in the air, as designers returned to a series of shoe styles you may not have considered since, well, the mid-noughties at least.
From the return of wedge heels – as seen at Louis Vuitton, Dior, Molly Goddard, Chloe, Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo – to the reappearance of slouchy, over-the-knee boots, those trends we once revered and promptly parked (fashion is a fickle business) are back, and we're reminded of why we liked them in the first place.
There's also a celebration of the classics this season. Black court shoes were one of the most ubiquitous shoes on the catwalks (Schiaparelli, Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Versace), closely followed by the masculine brogues championed by Alexander McQueen, Miu Miu and Max Mara.
This being fashion, there were also a few more experimental shoes on the autumn/winter catwalks this year – some of which may not even class as shoes. So, from those to the styles you'll want to wear every day, here are the shoes you'll want to wear this autumn and beyond. They're not Kickers, but they will give you that thrilling feeling of stomping into a brand new season.
Back To School Shoes
If, like me, you're filled with nostalgia for the stiff buckle on a brand new pair of Mary Janes that acted as the only sweetener on your first day back at school, you're in luck.
Emilia Wickstead, Rodarte and Roberto Cavalli all showed a version of these classic shoes for autumn, reminding us all of their great power (they go with everything and always look chic). Giorgio Armani's version were of the T-bar variety for added vintage vibes.
For the more serious of scholars, Miu Miu (as part of a collaboration with Church's), Max Mara and Alexander McQueen offered up mannish loafers. Ideal for those days when you need something smarter than a pair of trainers, but don't want to lose any of the practicality.
SHOP: The Best Back-To-School Shoes
www.sezane.com
These have already sold out in some colours, so buy the chic beige version while you still can.
www.charleskeith.co.uk
Charles & Keith has one of the best varieties of Mary Jane shoes on offer, including these pretty flats with pearl buckle. Wear with cropped jeans by day and minis by night.
www.miumiu.com
Part of Miu Miu's excellent collab with heritage shoe brand Church's, these are miraculously still available. But not for long. An investment piece you'll wear year after year.
www.marksandspencer.com
It's hard to believe these are under £50 but they'll add polish to any outfit.
Pick Your Platforms
If you're afraid of heights, look away now. Victoria Beckham, Balmain, Roberto Cavalli and Elie Saab all showed off sky-high shoes, with a more vertiginous take on the platform than ever.
While this is not a trend for the faint of heart (or weak of ankle, for that matter) the good news is that they're much easier to master than their stiletto counterparts. See you on the dancefloor.
SHOP: The Best Platform Shoes
www.victoriabeckham.com
The ultimate party platforms, these will work wonders with your best LBD.
www2.hm.com
Like the school shoes you always wanted, these platform loafers will be perfect with wide leg trousers and a crisp cotton shirt.
www.wolfandbadger.com
The last word in platform party shoes, Terry de Havilland is the designer you want if you're looking for high octane glamour that works all year round.
Classic Courts
If you thought seasonal fashion trends were only concerned with the wild and wonderful, let it be known that – deep breath – Schiaparelli, Saint Laurent, Huishan Zhang, Dolce & Gabbana, Christopher Kane, Prada and Versace all favoured classic back courts for autumn/winter 2023.
That's it, that's all there was to it – simple, pointed, glossy black courts worn with strapless dresses, LBDs and bright yellow shifts.
SHOP: The Best Black Court Shoes
www.luisaviaroma.com
Whether you're wearing denim or the sharpest of suits, these pumps will add some va-va-voom to any ensemble.
www.johnlewis.com
I know the word 'classic' is overused but these really do fit the bill. They're also much more comfortable than they look, which is always good news.
www.newlook.com
If you really can't face a stiletto heel, these block heels are a great compromise and will be slightly easier on your feet.
Stomper Boots
An all-weather winner, clompy, tough boots were seen in all their guises. There were lace-up boxing boots at Gucci and a slightly more glamorous iteration at Roberto Cavalli.
The best, however, came courtesy of Jil Sander, where they were paired with puffball dresses; Coach, where they went with chocolate brown leather co-ords and at Fendi, where they looked unexpectedly polished worn with a powder blue take on the shirt dress.
SHOP: The Best Stomper Boots
www2.hm.com
Use Fendi as your inspiration and pair these with smarter pieces for an interesting contrast.
www.net-a-porter.com
Ganni's boots will lend a toughness to your favourite midi dresses and will look equally good with cropped jeans and an oversized knit for weekends spent outside.
www.freepeople.com
Channel your inner punk with these vintage-inspired combat boots. They'll only look better as they get older.
Bow Details
While we've come to expect bows aplenty from the likes of Chanel, this season plenty of other designers got in on the action, sweetening their shoes with the pretty motif.
Giambattista Valli, Versace, Erdem, Chanel and Simone Rocha all put bows on their shoes for autumn/winter but it was Loewe's velvet versions, trailing down the catwalk, which were among the best.
SHOP: The Best Bow-Detail Shoes
www.mytheresa.com
As you can imagine, these Loewe pumps are selling fast, so you'll need to act quickly. While they are the perfect accompaniment for structured evening dresses, as seen on the catwalk, they'll also transform jeans and a white T-shirt.
www.charleskeith.co.uk
The perfect party shoes if you don't want to wear heels, these have distinct Chanel vibes but are less than £90.
www.boden.co.uk
Brighten up your weekend outfits with these fab flats. They're also available in vibrant plum or black.
shop.mango.com
Mango has some of the best ballerinas on the market – this pair will combine perfectly with wide leg trousers and an oversized shirt.
OTKs Get Slouchy
While thigh-high boots keep returning every autumn, this season's are slouchier versions than the ones we've become used to. If that sounds daunting, Stella McCartney showed it doesn't have to be – her sleek chocolate brown pairs were worn with oversized rugby-style shirt dresses.
Bally and Isabel Marant also kept things simple with shorter hemlines to balance out proportions, while Burberry's over-the-knee boots had the most slouch of all, worn with longer lengths in contrasting textures.
SHOP: The Best Slouchy OTKs
www.thereformation.com
Available in black leather or brown suede, wear these boots with knitted mini dresses for an easy autumn outfit.
www.sezane.com
You'll find these will work with everything from mini skirts to tucked-in trousers – and if you buy the black pair, they'll go with all of your existing wardrobe.
www.net-a-porter.com
As seen on the catwalk, these boots may be an investment but you'll wear them season after season. Try with form-fitting silhouettes to balance out their slouch.
Next To Nothing
We're all being encouraged to slip into something more comfortable this season. Designers seemed preoccupied by fuzzy textures and barely-there shoes – in some cases, they weren't there at all.
Sandy Liang sent models down the catwalk in sugary sweet satin ballet shoes encased in oversized leg warmers, while JW Anderson's models wore just white socks. But it was Bottega's boots that really stole the show – while they looked like rib-knit socks worn with sumptuous roll neck jumpers, they were in fact crafted from leather.
Ever the sartorial magician, creative director Matthieu Blazy designed the 'socks' to be knitted out of fine strands of leather, before he added a thin leather sole to make them outdoor appropriate – just.
SHOP: The Next-To-Nothing Look
www.harrods.com
While we're not necessarily advocating foregoing shoes in favour of just these socks, they would look good with another of this season's trends – try with a pair of Mary Janes.
www.freepeople.com
Take inspiration from Sandy Liang and wear these over your favourite ballet flats.
Wear Your Wedges
The wedge heel renaissance may have started with spring/summer of this year but, as Louis Vuitton, Dior, Molly Goddard, Chloe, Ferragamo and Bottega proved, it's here to stay.
There's no one overarching style, either. Instead, look for wedges on boots, pumps and mules – and feel smug that they're much easier to walk in than most of the alternative heel types.
SHOP: The Best Wedge Heel Shoes
www.luisaviaroma.com
Available to pre-order now, Ferragamo's wedges are going to be one of the sell-out shoe hits of the season, so make sure you don't miss out. Wear with black tights and a flared mini skirt to emulate the catwalk styling.
www.cos.com
Make these your new go-to work shoe and team with structured tailoring.
www.net-a-porter.com
Wear with your best party dress or team with cropped jeans – these mules are more versatile than you might think.
On Point
If you've been recoiling from the ballet shoe and its very rounded toe, you're in luck. Sharp points were the order of the day at Giorgio Armani, Wales Bonner, Prada, Tory Burch, Givenchy and Loro Piana.
Whether you opt for razor-sharp flats or perfect points on heels, wear with knee-length skirts and a fine knit for the ultimate Prada vibes.
SHOP: The Best Pointed Shoes
www.mytheresa.com
Prada's pumps are, predictably, selling out fast. This black pair is still available in most sizes, so get them while you still can.
www.johnlewis.com
A very wearable take on the trend, these pumps are super-chic and won't give you blisters.
www.toryburch.com
The ultimate pointed pumps, you can afford to keep the rest of your outfit fairly simple when you're wearing these.