Skincare can be divisive. Some of us sit in the10-step routine camp, while others enjoy the stripped-back life. The same goes for product choice and application technique - some extol the virtues of cleansing brushes, others are hot cloth loyalists, you get the picture.
Skincare preferences are such a hot topic of conversation, that Kim Kardashian made waves with recent IGTV when she told her 332 million strong following - and counting - that they should be patting in their skincare products, rather than rubbing them in.
In the video, Skims founder and reality-TV veteran Kim says 'technique matters. Rubbing in your products can stretch the skin, break down collagen and elastin, and prevent proper absorption. Instead, applying your toner, serums, and moisturisers with a patting motionis not only less damaging to the skin structure, it also stimulates blood flow and lymphatic drainage, and helps prevent pilling.'
Kim does hold a degree of weight in the beauty industry - her influence over trends and product sales is second-to-none, and she's a brand founder in her own right. She also has access to some of the bests products and skincare experts in the business, and has done for around 15 years. Nevertheless her skincare advice has been met with criticism, with many challenging Kim's skincare claims.
'Rubbing in your skincare is NOT gonna stretch your skin out, prevent product absorption and definitely NOT breakdown collagen and elastin???? At most it can maybe cause piling but that can just be a conflict of two formulas not meshing well together,' tweeted make-up artists Tiara Willis.
Aesthetic Doctor and Dr. Dev Patel explains that the Journal of Dermatological Treatment 2018 lists 15 factors identified in current literature that can influence absorption of topically applied products and this includes rubbing.
'Some studies did show improved dermal absorption with rubbing,' says Dr Dev, 'and interestingly, they point out that rubbing can increase skin temperature and blood flow, but it also likely modifies the stratum corneum structure (the very surface of the skin) which may enhance diffusion rates and very importantly, increases retained penetration within the skin - simply put, it increases the amount of product that stays at the right depth of the skin.'
Rubbing in your skincare isn't all that bad for you then, despite Kim's claims, but that's not to say we're looking to completely disregard her advice. Dr Dev doesn't agree with the idea that rubbing in cream somehow stretches skin and causescollagen to break down, though does agree that excessive and vigorous rubbing will increase inflammation, which in turn can contribute to accelerated collagen loss. Kim's patting technique is accepted by most dermatologists as an effective way of distributing product as well as boosting circulation, blood flow promoting a brighter, well-rested complexion, the only downside is it adds time to your skincare routine.
Aesthetic Practitioner at Centre for SurgeryCarrie Hancox agrees. 'It's still a very common technique. there are a lot of dermatologists and aestheticians that are really fond of it. It's never going to cause any harm. It's a nice and gentle technique to use.'
'Such a technique is not going to cause any harm or any damage to the skin. But neither will rubbing,' Carrie points out. 'It's more about the ingredients in your skincare along with other factors and how you're looking after your skin,' she adds.
So what is the best way to apply your skincare products? 'I would say that with serums and creams, either use a gentle circular or one direction motion. It's better if you incorporate an upward movement too, which helps with lymphatic drainage and blood flow,' says Dr Dev.
In any case both methods stimulate more blood flow to the skin and thereby bring more oxygen and nutrients to the surface, and that can only be a good thing.