First things first, when it comes to layering your skincare and the best order in which to apply your products, the general rule of thumb is to apply the thinnest, most fluid formulations first, before building up to thicker, more occlusive textures. This way, those lighter formulas that often work deeper down within the skin (for example, watery serums) can be fully absorbed by the skin, working their magic before they are sealed in with any heavier creams or oils.
When working through these steps it’s important to let each formula settle and dry on the skin before moving onto your next product. The heavier or thicker the product, the longer it might take to sink in and settle on the skin. Yes, it means your overall routine might take slightly longer but, trust me, the results will be worth the faff in the end.
Watch: How To Layer Your Skincare Routine
The Step-By-Step
DAYTIME ROUTINE
The focus for your daytime routine is protection, protection, protection. That means shielding your skin against damaging UV rays (which, as we now know, contribute to around 80% of visible skin ageing) as well as other environmental aggressors such as pollution. This is where antioxidants and anti-inflammatories come in…
1. CLEANSER
You might question the need for cleansing in the morning after having gone to sleep with a clean, skincare-prepped face, but really is a vital step for your overall routine - setting up your skin for all of the products you apply thereafter. That’s because as you snooze your skin regenerates (good news) leaving dead skin cells lingering on the surface come morning (not so good news). Oil production might have built up too, which is why starting with a clean (read: cleansed) slate (read: skin) is key.
What you don’t want is that squeaky clean feeling after you cleanse which can indicate the product you’ve used is, in fact, too harsh for your skin. Instead, opt for a gentle cleanser (preferably non-foaming) that will help do away with dead skin cells, excess oil and grime without stripping your skin’s natural oils and potentially compromising the skin’s barrier.
TRY:
2. TONER
Modern day toners are so much more than this somewhat outdated title gives them credit for. One of the most effective toners are liquid exfoliants such as BHAs and AHAs. BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids), which include salicylic acid, are oil-soluble and therefore can penetrate oil-packed pores, making them great for breakouts. On the other hand, AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), including glycolic, citric and lactic acids, are brilliant for exfoliating the outer layer of the skin whilst boosting collagen. Finally, the lesser known PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids), including gluconolactone, galactose, and lactobionic, have a much larger molecule size, meaning they can’t penetrate the skin as deeply which makes them ideal for sensitive skin types.
Patience comes into play here and it’s important to wait around five minutes before applying your next skincare step so that you don’t neutralise the acids before they have a chance to do their thing.
If you’re not after exfoliation and are all about hydration, you can use a hydrating toner at this point.
TRY:
3. SERUM
Now for what I like to call the ‘big guns’ of the skincare world: serums. Offering up the highest concentration of active ingredients, this is where you can make the most notable difference to your skin. So, if you’re looking to invest anywhere, invest here.
Most Derms swear by an antioxidant Vitamin Cserum for the day, which will protect your skin against environmental aggressors, essentially mopping up skin damaging free radicals before they have the chance to cause trouble. These also help brighten skin, whilst evening out uneven skin tone over time.
If you’re a Vit C first timer and have sensitive skin, build it into your routine slowly, starting off with a few times a week or every other morning before building up to daily use.
If you’re after speedy hydration, a brilliant ingredient to look out for in serum form is Hyaluronic Acid - often lauded for being the molecule that’s able to hold 1000 times its own weight in water. Worn solo, it can feel a little sticky, but many smart serums feature it high in their ingredient list.
TRY:
Vichy Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydration Booster Serum, £25
Dr Dennis Gross C+ Collagen Brighten & Firm Vitamin C Serum, £79
4. EYE CREAM
So why are we applying our eye cream pre-moisturiser? Well, think about it like this: The delicate eye area (skin around the eyes is five times thinner than the rest of the face) has its own set of eye-area-specific issues to contend with, such as dark circles and puffiness. To best address these, eye creams tend to contain targeted ingredients like caffeine. If you were to apply moisturiser pre-eye cream, you’d likely end up applying around the eye area, which would add another layer for the eye cream to get through before it could deliver these targeted ingredients to where they’re needed. So, by applying an eye cream first, you’re essentially getting those ingredients straight to work without having to jump over an extra hurdle.
For application, be gentle. Use your ring finger to tap the eye cream around your eye, softly blending in.
TRY:
Olay Eyes Ultimate Eye Cream For Dark Circles, Wrinkles & Puffiness, £24.99
5. MOISTURISER
Now’s the time to go in with your moisturiser, which is going to seal in all of the hard work you’ve put in already, creating a hydrating and cushiony barrier over the skin. Whilst they won’t deliver drastic results like a serum formula might, they remain a mainstay in savvy skincare routines for good reason. Look for formulas rich in ceramides and hyaluronic acid for an extra moisture kick. Just make sure to let them settle in for a few minutes before going onto your final day time step.
Note: At this point you could add an oil over the top. I’ve yet to find a dermatologist that recommends them, so I steer clear. But this is a personal choice for my sensitive skin.
TRY:
6. SPF
And finally, the absolute non-negotiable – SPF. Wear it every day, as a separate step to your moisturiser or your foundation and top up throughout the day. Around 80% of visible skin ageing is UV related, not to mention its contribution to skin cancer, so it would be remiss not to.
Always opt for at least an SPF30 and make sure it’s broad spectrum protection, which means it protects against both UVB (burning rays) and UVA (ageing rays).
TRY:
NIGHT-TIME ROUTINE
At night, your routine should focus on repairing the skin, whilst boosting collagen and cell turnover. When you’re tucked up in bed, you’re not throwing all of those daily environmental aggressors at your skin, so it can really focus on repair without being interrupted.
1. DOUBLE CLEANSE
I often get asked what the point in double cleansing is. Surely a good cleanser should have the power to do it all in one go? Not the case. Put simply, one cleanse removes the make-up and SPF that – remember – is formulated to stay put for as long as possible. The second cleanse then comes in to thoroughly clean your skin, preparing it for the products you apply over the top.
I always start with a micellar water to get rid of my make-up, as it’s gentle enough for eyes, too.
2. SERUM
Again, this is where your big guns treatment comes in. Choose a serum formula that’s been formulated to target your specific skin concerns – from fine lines to melasma, redness to breakouts.
Note: If you’re using a retinol – skip this step and go straight to step 3 and 4.
TRY:
Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II, £58
2. EYE CREAM
Pop on your eye cream, using the tapping method you used in the day. This is also going to act as a barrier for the next step (preventing retinol from causing irritation on the delicate eye area).
3. RETINODS
Retinoids is the umbrella term for all vitamin-A derivatives, including over the counter retinol. They are, without a doubt, the most celebrated ingredient for boosting collagen and smoothing out fine lines, as they work to boost cell turnover of the skin – uncovering fresh, healthy skin cells. They work wonders for fading dark spots, cleaning out pores, preventing breakouts – you name it – and they are best used at night when you’re not dealing with those daily aggressors we spoke about.
BUT they’re strong and can cause flaking and irritation, so introduce retinoids/retinol into a routine slowly, building up over time as your skin acclimatises. Remember: You’re playing the long game!
Wait at least 5 minutes until your skin is completely dry.
TRY:
4. MOISTURISE
Make sure you don’t double up on a serum with retinoids and a cream with retinoids! Instead, you want a nourishing moisturiser over the top.
Top tip: There’s the option to apply moisturiser before retinol. Dr Sam Bunting calls this ‘buffering’ and it essentially means you’re diluting the strength of the retinol with a moisturiser barrier.
Shop: All The Products Used In The Video
Layering Skincare Products
1 of 11Dr Sam's Flawless Cleanser, £16
2 of 11Kiehl's Daily Refining Milk-Peel Toner, £52
3 of 11SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Antioxidant Vitamin C Serum, £140
4 of 11THE ORDINARY Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, £5.90
5 of 11Olay Eyes Ultimate Eye Cream For Dark Circles, Wrinkles & Puffiness, £24.99
6 of 11La Roche Posay Toleriane Ultra Cream For Sensitive Skin, £18.50
7 of 11Jan Marini Marini Physical Protectant SPF 45, £45
8 of 11Bioderma Sensibio H2O micellar Water, £15.80
9 of 11Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II, £58
10 of 11La Roche Posay Redermic Anti-Wrinkle Retinol Treatment, £32
11 of 11Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm, £19.50
READ MORE: How To Achieve A Fresh, Healthy, Glowing Base Make-Up