If there's one ingredient that's hot property right now (and has been for a while) it's hyaluronic acid. Forming part of the skin's natural framework, hyaluronic acid is a large sugar molecule that lives in the deeper layers of our dermis (that's technical talk for your, erm, skin). You've probably noticed many a moisturiser and serum claiming to be full of the stuff, or nutritionists waxing lyrical about foods high in it. But how exactly does hyaluronic acid benefit our skin?
To find out everything there is to know about this buzz-worthy ingredient, we've quizzed skincare experts Paula Begoun, founder of Paula's Choice and Linda Blahr, Educational and Science Manager from Skinceuticals.
What does hyaluronic acid do to your skin?
Having the unique ability to attract and hold up to 10,000 times its molecular weight in water, it is key to keeping our skin soft, plump and hydrated.
This highly active molecule is no one trick pony, and the benefits go way beyond just hydration, as Begoun explains, 'hyaluronic acid does more than keeping the skin hydrated, it has excellent antioxidant abilities and is a natural anti-inflammatory.'
Do hyaluronic acid creams and serums work?
A popular constituent in skincare, hyaluronic acid has a gel-like texture that can be found in serums and creams and can be topically applied to your skin for an instant shot of hydration or used in injectables such as fillers.
'When used in skincare, the goal of this active is to work on the superficial layers of the skin where moisture is lacking,' explains Blahr. 'It protects it against dehydration and will also help to smooth over fine lines and give an immediate plumping effect.'
Who can use hyaluronic acid?
'Hyaluronic acid can benefit all skin types,' says Begoun, 'including blemish-prone, sensitive and rosacea-affected skin. This is because of its smart hydrating properties, barrier stability ability, and antioxidant effects. '
Just choose your specific formula and texture based on your skin type. Begoun advises:
• Oily to combination skin: use serums or gels.
• Combination to slightly dry skin: try serums or lotions.
• Dry skin: opt for creams or rich lotions.
Is it ever bad to use hyaluronic acid?
There’s no downside to hyaluronic acid, but Begoun does suggest that 'If you are in an arid, desert-dry climate, or on a plane, be aware that hyaluronic acid will pull moisture from the lower layers of skin if it’s not naturally present in the air around you. To keep this from happening, “seal” your hyaluronic acid product with an emollient moisturiser or facial oil blend. This way, the skin’s uppermost layers gain the benefits of hyaluronic acid without pulling vital hydration from the lower layers.'
What is the best hyaluronic acid serum or cream?
There are so many creams and serums on the market, so how do we know which ones to choose? Blahr advises, 'In my experience, the best ones will feel smooth, light and not tacky. It should absorb easily into the skin, but still feel like you have a protective light film, and it definitely shouldn’t feel greasy.'
What's the deal with injectable hyaluronic acid?
Aside from topical formulations such as serums and creams, hyaluronic acid is used in a number of injectable treatments performed in clinics by aestheticians. We caught with Dr Ron Moy, an American dermatologist and Senior Vice President of the Skin Cancer Foundation to explain how injectable hyaluronic acid works and the results it gives.
'As a cream it is really just a moisturiser and humectant rather than a wrinkle fighter. As an injectable, it works to soften wrinkles and give volume by plumping the skin,' explains Dr Moy. 'When you have an hyaluronic acid injection, the injection stretches the skin, and your fibroblasts produce more collagen. This results in more volume. It lasts for about six months.'
Is hyaluronic acid found in any foods?
'Hyaluronic acid is found in foods such as leafy greens, root vegetables and soy products. While it's unclear how hyaluronic acid is lost in the digestion process, it never hurts to eat leafy greens etc anyway, as a diet high in fruits and vegetables can help your body continue to produce protective agents, like hyaluronic and DNA repair enzymes naturally.'
SHOP: The best hyaluronic acid serums and creams
This hyaluronic acid booster contains a concentrated blend of skin-smoothing hyaluronic acid and restorative ingredients like ceramides to immediately hydrate skin and lock in moisture. From the very first use, the liquid-gel texture leaves skin visibly softer, smoother and younger-looking.
Replenish your complexion with the SkinCeuticals H.A. Intensifier; a corrective, multi-functional serum infused with a high concentration of Pure Hyaluronic Acid to firm and plump skin.
Using an innovative blend of Hyaluronic Acid and Glycine Saponin, the Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler day cream delivers a more targeted approach to visibly plumping even deep wrinkles.
High molecular Hyaluronic Acid improves hydration and smooths the outermost layers of skin while low molecular Hyaluronic Acid penetrates further into the epidermal skin layers where deeper wrinkles originate.
Immediately after application of this Hyaluronic Acid Serum, skin recovers bounce, suppleness and a radient complexion.
Supported by soothing rose water, the serum seeks to leave skin with the brand’s coveted ‘Skinesis glow’.
Powered by the brand’s patented Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex, this product is one of the most affordable options on the market - enriched with three forms of the molecule, varying in size to penetrate different levels of the skin and ensure multi-depth hydration.
The weightless, grease-free serum stars hyaluronic acid, evening primrose oil and coconut fruit just to swiftly plump away the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
A TikTok favourite, the Glow Recipe hyaluronic serum is your one-way ticket to gorgeously plump, glowing skin.