What Are BIAB Nails? Everything To Know From Experts

Let's talk BIAB nails. Suited to all nail designs and nail shapes, this latest social media sensation, #biabnails has amassed millions of posts across social media. But what exactly is a BIAB manicure and how does it differ from shellac, acrylic nails or gel polish? We spoke to BIAB nail expert Alexandra Teleki to find out all you need to know from what it is, how to apply it and how long it lasts.

Meet The Experts

Celebrity manicurist Alexandra Teleki aka TheHotBlend is a world renowned manicurist and BIAB nail expert. Teleki has worked with major nail brands from The Gel Bottle through to Essie.

What is BIAB?

This modern way to do achieve a perfect manicure constantly floods our social media feeds, something which is only helped by the roster of celebrities who back the mani method, from Kim Kardashian to Jennifer Lopez. In fact, it is so popular it has amassed 190.5K posts on TikTok and counting. While it's grained traction in recent years, it is by no means a new phenomenon. Popular nail care brand The Gel Bottle, founded by nail tech Daisy Kalnina actually launched BIAB originally in 2015.

So, what is BIAB and Builder Gel? Let's start with the acronym itself. ‘BIAB stands for “builder in a bottle”, which is also known as builder gel,’ explains Teleki. 'It's a professional soak off range of nail products specifically designed to add strength and structure to your natural nails.’

As aiding strength, length and protection is the BIAB MO here, expect a slighter thicker polish than your regular gel mani thanks to the protective layer that's applied.

The end result is a look that's very similar to a traditional gel manicure - expect the same high-shine, jelly like finish but with a more fortified nail.

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How is BIAB applied?

BIAB application is actually much like that of traditional gel and shellac manicures. Here's Teleki's step by step guide to builder in a bottle application.

Prep and buff: 'Your manicurist will prep and buff the nails using a nail file and buffer to allow the base to adhere to your natural nails. This is when a traditional manicure may be performed too using cuticle work.'

Base: 'Builder gel is an all-in-one, it contains a primer, a base coat, a colour and the builder gel in the mixture. All these ingredients mean we cut out four steps in the manicure process,' says Teleki.

Apply BIAB: 'Next, your manicurist will apply a thin layer of BIAB polish over the natural nail. Once this base is evened out, it will be cured under a LED lamp. After this sets (in and around 60 seconds) comes the next layer. A thick, gel-like bead of BIAB gel will be pressed onto the nail bed and shaped around the nail in one go. As this is thicker than traditional gel, your manicurist will take more time to ensure the coverage is thin and natural around the edge of the nail and the cuticle before curing again.'

Refine and buff: 'After buffing again, refining and removing any dust, your manicurist can apply a layer of traditional gel polish on the top, or finish with a topcoat to add gloss.'

Extras: 'It's at this point nail art can be added too.'

Watch: BIAB Application Tutorial

How long does BIAB take to apply?

One thing I will say about BIAB nails is that, in my experience, it definitely takes longer than a traditional gel manicure. Expect to set aside around an hour and a half for the look. And, if you’re coupling it with a Russian manicure then it can take up to two hours. But, that said, you'll be visiting the nail salon much less frequently, so it's a win win situation.

What's the difference between BIAB and gel or shellac?

Shellac was most famously introduced to the nail industry by CND, explains Teleki, and is a patented brand of gel polish that is mixed with nail polish and gel. 'It is a product that is slightly thicker than nail polish and the key difference being that instead of air drying, it is cured using ultraviolet light. Shellac is expected to last between 1 or 2 weeks, depending on aftercare. Gel polish is slightly thicker than Shellac in consistency and helps the nails to last 2 to 3 weeks with the right aftercare,' says Teleki.

This process of 'curing' (using a UV lamp) ensures the polish is chip-resistant and long-wearing. BIAB is a also a type of gel polish but one that's formulated with a stronger base, which assists nail growth. The only pitfall to bear in mind is that BIAB polishes are available in a limited shade range. But fret not, if you're sold on the trend but set on a shade that's not available in BIAB, you need only apply any other gel polish over a clear BIAB base.

What's the difference between BIAB and acrylic nails?

'Acrylic nails were invented in 1950s, became very popular by the late 90’s and has been a preferred service by many. Acrylic resin was great to provide additional strength to the natural nails and it also can extend the nails without using an ultraviolet lamp. The downside to acrylic is that once this material dries, it has little to no flexibility, therefore any trauma caused to the nails increases the likelihood of damaging the nail plate,' explains Teleki.

They are often formed using an extension and a combination of a liquid acrylic monomer and a powder acrylic polymer - this process can be harsh on the nails, Teleki adds. In comparison, 'BIAB l is applied directly to the natural nail and cured using a lamp, providing it with a protective shell that will allow the nail to grow.'

Is BIAB good for your nails?

While the consistency of the formula is thick, the added layers of protection enable nails to grow steadily and lessens the chances of breakage. In other words, if you have a biting habit, this may be your 'get out of jail free' card. 'The thickness of BIAB is what helps to reinforce strength, durability and protection from external factors like knocks and bumps. What's more, BIAB nail looks can be achieved without the need for glue or plastic tips, and it can also be used to repair broken nails,' explains Teleki. .

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How long does BIAB last?

Teleki explains, 'the recommended time to wear builder gel on nails is between three to four weeks. If it’s left on too long the gel will lift and is more likely to break so I wouldn’t recommend keeping a set on longer than four weeks.'

She adds, with proper nail prep it can last much longer, but manicurists often don't advise keeping a BIAB set on for too long. 'It's always great to give nails a break, then after around four weeks they can either be infilled or soaked off.'

How much does BIAB cost?

Depending on location you can expect to pay anywhere between £20 and £70 for BIAB nails - central London salons, for example, will be more expensive.

Beauty editor, Rachael Martin says, 'I always go to my local salon in Earls Court. It’s called L’amour Beauty and although there’s no frills involved they do exactly what I want - that being a glossy pink toned BIAB that allows me to look and feel polished (quite literally) for up to three weeks at a time. It costs £30 and I like to book via Treatwell - it’s always easy to find a slot that suits me and saves me waiting around if they’re particularly busy.'

How to remove BIAB nails at home?

Gel builder nail polish is not as simple to remove as regular polish. The thickness and durability of the formula means removing it can be quite the task, so it's always best to visit a professional to complete this job. But that's not to say you can't do it yourself.

First, you'll need a sturdy removal tool kit, which consists of a nail polish remover containing acetone, cotton pads, a cuticle pusher, tin foil, a nail file and some cuticle oil. Start by filing down the top coat of your colour and file down as much as you can without touching your natural nail. Then, soak the cotton pad in your acetone nail polish remover before placing it on the nail and wrapping tin foil around it to secure the cotton pad in place. Let that sit for at et least 10 minutes.

What is left on your nails should be loose and sticky in texture, this can be gently scraped away with a cuticle pusher. Finish off with some TLC by applying cuticle oil to the nail beds. We love Essie's Nail Care Cuticle Oil Apricot Treatment, £7.19, which boasts a nourishing and non-greasy formula.

Beauty Editor Rachael's thoughts on BIAB

I only started my BIAB journey last year, and since my nails have become much longer and stronger. When using traditional polish and even gel polish, my nails became brittle and often snapped, so I never achieved the length I'd hoped for. Now? They’re so much more fortified and have grown incredibly long. Which I'll absolutely take.

The picture on the left was taken straight after my first BIAB manicure and the one on the right four weeks later. Although grown out, I couldn't believe how good my nails looked after a full month. There was no breakage or chipping and my nails had grown longer than they'd ever been before. I'm a total convert.

Can you do BIAB nails at home?

Yes! The good news is you can apply BIAB nails at home, but only with patience and practice - it goes without saying that you'll get the best most longlating results if you go to a professional. Think you'd be a dab hand? Shop the BIAB at home IT kit below.

Shop: BIAB essentials

Rachael Martin is Grazia's Beauty Editor where she covers all things health, beauty and wellness

Main image credit: Instagram @corrinnabianca