Jeans are, environmentally speaking, a nightmare. It can take up to 1,800 gallons of water to make a single pair and a lot end up in landfill. That's why the Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) has launched its Jeans Redesign Guidelines, asking brands to sign up to ensure they're producing jeans in the most sustainable, ethical way possible. And it seems to have made a difference. Where once, options were limited, now some of this planet-friendly denim is actually even more alluring than anything else.
Tommy Hilfiger recently partnered with EMF to design a denim collection with circular principles at its core - not only are the jeans 100% organic cotton, but the buttons are detachable and the metal rivets have been replaced with bar tracks - and now Reformation has patterned with FibreTrace, an Australian tech company that is a real mover and shaker in the field of traceability, to make its most transparent jeans yet.
The denim collection of four pairs of jeans, one pair of shorts and one jacket is 'farm to butt', meaning that customers will be able to scan a tag that will allow them to view the garment's entire lifecycle, from fibre to production to finished product. FibreTrace's technology works by embedding scannable, luminescent pigments into the fabric during the cleaning process - cool right? - which then means that data from each step of the supply chain is captured in a unique 'passport'. The cotton itself is Good Earth Cotton, which is grown on the world’s first climate-positive farm in Australia, absorbing more carbon than it releases and therefore reducing carbon emissions in the atmosphere.
SHOP: Reformation's Traceable Denim Collection
Reformation, Alyssa Patch Pocket High-Rise Wide-Leg Jeans, £140
Reformation, Charlie Cuffed High-Rise Jean Shorts, £84
Reformation, Cynthia High-Rise Straight Jeans, £140
Reformation, Madison Relaxed Jean Jacket, £140
Reformation, Kealy Carpenter High-Rise Relaxed Jeans, £160
Arket's new patchwork capsule collection, meanwhile, is made entirely with post-consumer denim. Made using vintage fabrics sourced through the brand's recycling program with I
SHOP: Arket's New Patchwork Collection
Arket, Straight Cropped Patchwork Denim Jeans, £99
Arket, Patchwork Denim Cushion, £55
Arket, Patchwork Denim Cropped Jacket, £115
Arket, Patchwork Denim Oversized Tote Bag, £69
Patchwork Denim Midi Skirt, £99
Sustainable denim brands have seen a big spike in interest over recent years, and it's about time too. ‘The fashion industry is one of the largest polluting industries in the world, with jean production at the forefront of this phenomena,’ says Jordan Nodarse, the founder and creative director of LA-based denim brand Boyish, which offers environmentally-conscious denim in styles that also promise to ‘make your booty look amazing’. ‘A standard jean can use up to 8000 litres of water to make just one pair; 60 per cent of that water consumption is needed for the fiber and fabric production, and 30 per cent is used to launder the denim to look worn.’
‘I will never forget visiting a denim factory in Bangladesh in 2015 - they were producing 3 million pairs of jeans a month,’ adds Eco-Age co-founder Livia Firth. ‘Let that sink in… That’s just one factory in the world but imagine how many jeans are produced worldwide. This is a grim reality.’
There’s another reality check that’s necessary if you are aiming to shop more consciously. Move away from thinking of denim (or anything!) as a seasonal purchase. A great pair of jeans only gets better with age.
SHOP: Our Favourite Sustainable Jeans
SHOP: Our Favourite Sustainable Jeans
Boyish, Wide-Leg High-Waisted Jeans, £260
Boyish jeans use ⅓ of the water used to make regular jeans, and are made using non-harsh chemicals to prevent fresh water contamination, and with deadstock or innovative, recycled fabrics. Even the garment bags are 100% compostable.
DL1961, Hepburn Wide-Leg High-Rise Vintage 31", £225
DL1961 is a family-owned business which, unlike many of its competitors in the denim market, has brought everything in-house, from spinning the yarn to weaving the fabric to producing the garments themselves. Its facility is also optimised for water, energy and dye use, and it operates using a vertical supply chain, meaning it can control and audit the entire process.
E.L.V. Denim, Dark Blue Match Flare Jeans, £285
Each pair of E.L.V. Denim jeans - produced in a 5-mile radius between Dalston and Walthamstow - is made from two pairs of discarded jeans that would otherwise end up in landfill. Not only is their formula 'zero waste', but the 'Frankenstein' result of such picking apart and stitching back together, with its light panels against dark, has become a style statement.
Wrangler, Indigood Icons Western Slim Jeans In Blue Soul, £80
Every stage of Wrangler's production process has been overhauled and the result is Indigood, a collection that uses a new foam-dyeing process that needs 100% less water, virtually eliminates wastewater, and reduces 60% of energy use and waste. The jeans are made with at least 28% recycled cotton, the labels are made using recycled plastics, and the tags are made using 100% recycled paper.
Reformation, Cynthia '80s Seamed High-Rise Straight Jeans, £160
It's the Insta-set's ultimate e-commerce label – and its new lightweight denim collection is all they'll be wearing this summer, especially as international shipping is now free. It's still got all the sustainable vital stats – its jeans made from a mix of cotton, recycled cotton, organically-grown cotton and TENCEL™ lyocell, and save on carbon dioxide, water and waste – and some seriously cool shapes.