Sometimes the style set does a volte-face, the fashion equivalent of a policy change that seems so out of character that it can seem like they’re batting for the opposition. The latest 180 to sweep the streets at fashion month? The mini is out, replaced by something altogether more modest: pleated skirts. Yes, you’ve finally got the green light to give your legs (or at least thighs) a break for the foreseeable.
The ‘It’ skirt now falls past the knee or, in some cases, almost to the mid-calf, making it a perfect candidate if you’d rather stave off the opaques for as long as possible. The pleated midi cropped up at all the core fashion weeks, proving that it’s pared-back enough for New York, cool enough for London.
Model Imaan Hammam wore hers with a cropped sweater, white ankle socks and shiny loafers, proving that back-to-school dressing is most definitely in session. Influencer Mia Regan, meanwhile, paired hers, a naughty-yet-nice style from 16Arlington, with a simple long-sleeved top. No muss, no fuss.
Both were box-pleated as opposed to plissé, with a grown-up schoolgirl vibe. Aligne’s Kinga skirt, which is designed to sit on the hips and swish to somewhere between the mid-calf and the ankle, has been one of the online brand’s fastest sellers so far this season. ‘It’s a go-to transitional piece,’ says director Virginia Seymour. ‘Customers have been pairing it back with the matching waistcoat, but as the weather turns, we see more purchasing the skirt alongside our recycled cashmere roll neck to layer underneath.’ COS’ beige version has almost entirely sold out, but thankfully you can find similarly smart styles at Zara, Boden and Rejina Pyo, whose elegant take incorporates a waist belt and mismatched buttons.
'I designed this skirt to allow for adjustable waistlines, so it can sit more fitted at the waist or be worn lower on the hips for a looser fit. While it incorporates utilitarian features, when paired with our handcrafted, unique mismatched buttons, it gains a special and distinctive character,' says Pyo, who likes to wear hers with tall boots that disappear underneath the skirt's hem.
For more outfit ideas, follow the street-stylers’ lead, pairing your pleated skirts with a tank top, a blazer and a sharp pair of mules. Just make sure your blazer isn’t too fitted or boxy. It might be back-to-school season but there’s such a thing as being a goody two shoes.
SHOP: The Best Pleated Skirts
This autumn, pleated skirts might range from minis to midis to maxis, but longer styles are the ideal. Aligne's is designed to sit on the hips so the brand recommends that you size down if you'd rather wear it on your waist.
www.zara.com
Zara has plenty of pleated skirts, but this knee-length denim version is a fun way to take on the trend. Because it cuts off halfway down your leg, I'd give yourself a boost in the height department with a pair of knee-high boots.
rejinapyo.com
Rejina Pyo's cotton-blend pleated skirt comes with a waist belt and artfully mismatched buttons, making it one of the most elegant styles we've seen. Its mid-beige hue is also bang on trend for autumn 2023, especially when paired with a spectrum of browns and oranges.
www.marksandspencer.com
A black pleated midi skirt is guaranteed to become a staple of your weekly workwear rotation, especially if it's like this one from Finery. Hitting that sweet spot between the knee and mid-calf, it can be worn with flats or heels.
www.cos.com
COS has a lovely range of pleated skirts for autumn, including this butter yellow number that will look chic and feel comfortable. If you want to go for full immersion, it also comes with a matching top, but you might be better off wearing it with a crisp white shirt or grey crew-neck sweater.
www.hush-uk.com
This rust-coloured pleated skirt feels suitably autumnal, especially if worn with a cream cable-knit jumper, a leather aviator jacket and, if the temperature drop warrants it, a pair of cosy winter boots.