The Sex And The City Moment At Prada That You Might Have Missed

Dolce & Gabbana took down a trip down memory lane for SS22, arriving in the Noughties, a time when miniskirts, cargo pants and J.Lo, who appeared on crystal-studded tees, ruled supreme. Retracing that period with 'today's eyes, today's volumes and today's proportions', they used vintage stock to remake military trousers and jackets as they did in 2000, sending them down the catwalk with embellished jackets for a hi-lo mix that felt both nostalgic and bang up-to-date.

Marni dissolved the barrier between the viewer and the viewed for SS22, inviting all of the attendees, who would normally arrive in their own clothes to watch the show unfold, to be fitted in their very own ensemble by the brand. Susie Lau called it a 'funny role reversal' on Instagram: 'We were all participants at @Marni as journalists, editors, stylists and influencers were all collectively dressed by Marine in a sort of funny role reversal (where in the ye olde days "print" people used to snub "bloggers" for being dressed by brands). Everywhere we donned a uniform of hand painted Marni pieces bearing limited edition labels.' On the catwalk itself, confident stripes multiplied across many of the outfits, sending a message of connectedness, while daisy motifs bloomed on bra tops and long skirts.

A sense of old-world glamour combined with modern execution at Giorgio Armani, where power separates were given soft edges and sparkles reigned supreme in the final few looks.

Moncler Genius, the puffer powerhouse's designer collaborations factory, this season became MONDOGENIUS, an immersive digital experience that, led by Alicia Keys, took the viewer on a journey through five cities to explore the work of 11 designers, including JW Anderson, DingYun Zhang and Palm Angels.

The supers and celebs turned out in full force for Versace SS22. Precious Lee, Emily Ratajkowski, Gigi Hadid, Naomi Campbell and Dua Lipa, making her debut, all sashayed down the catwalk wearing a collection inspired by the iconic silk foulard. Lipa, the brand's campaign star for autumn, closed the show in the most spectacular fashion, wearing a spangled hot pink bra top and slip skirt that will turn up on the red carpet in no time.

Raf Simons, combined with the genius of Miuccia Prada, always seems to come up with something entirely new. Something that, as soon as you've clapped eyes on it, seems like the most alluring garment you've ever beheld. That thing is now the mullet-hemmed miniskirt. Seen on the catwalk in numerous iterations - from tangerine to chartreuse to powder pink - it looks sensational with polo necks, cardigans, leather pea coats and sculptural polo sweaters.

John Cage - an artist, producer, composer and musical theorist who was a leading figure in the post-war avant garden in America - was the inspiration for Sportmax SS22, particularly 4'33", his most celebrated composition, and his exploration of opposites. But how did this translate to the clothes? With 'a controlled clash' that explored opposing forces like order and chaos, light and obscurity. 18th century corsetry was juxtaposed with ultra clean lines; the lightness of gauze, georgette and tulle distinguishing itself from leather, satin, cotton and jacquard. Set in a stark white space, intended to conjure a feeling of contemplative silence, it was a soaring moment in Milan.

Tod's made a very persuasive case for the high and mighty hemline this SS22. The first look, worn by Gigi Hadid, was a zippered coat that brushed the upper thigh and chunky leather sandals. From there, things got even more brief, from the knickers styled with leather biker jackets to tulip-shaped dresses worn with patent platform boots. Prepare to venture into barely-there territory.

The maestro's approach to designing and dressing can be summed up with what was written in show notes: 'Under the symbol of an eagle that flies high and knows no boundaries, for forty years, Emporio Armani has been expressing the joys of fashion free from imposed rules, that nevertheless maintains the harmony of shapes, balance, and the sense of nonchalant elegance that are the essence of Armani style.' And that's exactly what this show delivered with its signature quest for lightness, the effortless fluidity of the cuts and the soft wearability of the colours. New ideas focused on tailoring, including suiting as soft as pyjamas and blazers as light as shirts.

At Etro, a 'joyful mysticism and awakening typical of the '70s' provided the show's frame of reference, but, crucially, with 'reminiscences of '90s slickness'. Veronica Etro relied on a kaleidoscopic range of patterns - lush flowers, paisley motifs and upholstery-inspired prints - with an emphasis on positive energy. Jill Kortleve's look - a wallpaper-print turtleneck and matching sarong-style skirt - was our favourite.

Max Mara was inspired by a, 'smart, sulky, Beat Generation intellectuelle,' for SS22 - and, in particular, Françoise Quoirez (widely known as Françoise Sagan). 'An ungovernable teenager, a devotee of Proust, Stendhal, Gide and Camus, she was twice expelled from school (once for hanging a bust of Molière),' read the show notes, eventually writing her literary masterpiece Boujour Tristesse, whose heroine, Cécile, is the ultimate 'bourgeois rebel'. Cue easy beatnik chic in the form of perfectly proportioned overcoats, smart-yet-sexy skirt suits and black party dresses.

'We are plural, nocturnal, and luminous; feminine, masculine, vulnerable and strong; and we shouldn't take ourselves too seriously,' read the show notes at Jil Sander, the fashionable thinker's favourite label for soft power staples like this hollandaise-coloured trouser suit, worn with an elaborate yet effortless collar.

At Alberta Ferretti, there was a focus on the body, with an effortless collection that shone a light, as always, on craftsmanship. Lengths were extreme (either very short or extended), while volumes were soft or body-sculpting. Colours started with easy-to-wear neutrals, but eventually turned the vivid colours of precious stones, while the only print, the butterfly, captures the spirit of rebirth in the clothes.

Fendi kicked off proceedings with a catwalk set under a beautiful network of mirrored arches, reflecting the collection's stealth wealth brand of polish. Coffee-coloured looks, a signature of Kim Jones', gave way to glorious dashes of gold, pink and orange on flowing '70s silhouettes, while the sex appeal was dialled to 10 with sheer logoed tights and triangle bra tops worn with suiting. In terms of accessories, our money's on the hands-free pouch - a guaranteed hit on next season's street style circuit and beyond.