In the first episode of the Gossip Girl reboot, one character denigrates another with the put down, ‘She has a headband on,’ – an insult that encapsulates just how far-removed their world is from Blair Waldorf ’s. This time around, the perma blow-dries have been replaced by buzz cuts; knee-high socks with cowboy boots. In fact, apart from returning costume designer Eric Daman – not to mention the caramel-smooth voice of Kristen Bell, who reprises her role as Gossip Girl (or ‘GG’) – this is an entirely new breed of private school prep.
‘They dress to reflect their views and are not defined or restrained by old world values and traditions,’ says Daman of the new aesthetic. ‘They make individualistic choices that are idiosyncratic as opposed to fitting in.’ It’s these choices – Balenciaga’s pumped- up sneakers over ballet flats, for example – that reflect how much has changed since the original days of Constance Billard St Jude’s, where a blog (remember those?) once ruled the school – and which the new teachers, disenfranchised and in desperate need of a power move, decide to resurrect on Instagram.
With Black Lives Matter, TikTok, #MeToo and cancel culture all arriving after the original show wrapped in 2012, diversity and gender fluidity have finally become part of the new Gossip Girl conversation. Take Aki Menzies’ cherry blossom pink hair, or the tantalisingly see-through lace shirt on Max Wolfe. ‘Max identifies as male and pansexual,’ says Daman. ‘Being able to dress him in a “women’s” blouse, and look sexy AF, expands on the dialogue of what gender norms are and how we can have that conversation through clothing. If I’d put a women’s blouse on Chuck Bass, it would have been a joke.’
And that’s another thing. These Gen-Zers might still worship the designer labels their privilege affords them – Julien Calloway carries a Louis Vuitton Capucines, a status symbol costing upwards of £3,000, for her first day back at school – but vintage clothing and streetwear now get equal billing. ‘These kids love to be mindful of their impact on the environment, but also love a one-of-a-kind piece that is unique to them and comes with a heritage story,’ says Daman, whose moodboard references ’90s supermodels and early ’00s MTV Video Music Awards, as well as Destiny's Child, J-Lo, Aaliyah, Rihanna, En Vogue and Clueless.
Julien’s customised uniform is Cher Horowitz meets Bella Hadid, another key reference for Daman, mixing pinstriped school blazers with leather belt-bags for a vibe that’s entirely cheugy-free. Savannah Smith’s character, Monet de Haan, has a look based on a ’90s Naomi Campbell. ‘Monet is very consistent with her style. She wears Chanel, a lot of accessories, miniskirts, giant heels,’ says Smith.
‘All these kids have a nonchalance to their style that feels effortless but is totally thought out and very expensive,’ says Daman, who showcased rising-star designers (like Christopher John Rogers, LaQuan Smith, Telfar) alongside the established power brands (Dior, Gucci, Saint Laurent).
Items sell out as soon as they hit Instagram, according to Daman, where @gossipgirlstyleguide has diligently been documenting everything worn. As the girls tell Zoya Lott, Julien’s half-sister, at her first Dumbo House party, ‘Look your best because you will be watched.’ With the first six episodes dropping today on BBC iPlayer, it promises to be a different (yet equally drama-filled) ride.
SEE: The Best TV Wardrobes Of All Time
Lovecraft Country
Sci-fi and fashion can be happy bedfellows (as evidenced by Stranger Things). Lovecraft Country, the brilliant new show from HBO, is set in '50s America - cue cat's eye sunglasses and hourglass-accentuating shorts - against the backdrop of segregation.
Emily In Paris
His last leading lady didn't fare so well in Paris, but maybe his next will do better. Darren Star's new show, Emily In Paris, stars Lily Collins. She's a wide-eyed marketing executive with a killer wardrobe because - go figure - Patricia Field, the famous costume designer of SATC, is also on board.
Friends
The best six friends on earth gave us great clothes + comedy gold. Who could forget Joey wearing everything Chandler owned ('I better not do any lunges!'), Rachel's slip dress ('My boob popped out!) and Ross's leather pants ('My God, these pants, I'm burning up.')?
Gossip Girl
The preppy plaid skirts and velvet hairbands made Gossip Girl compulsive viewing to coming-of-age teens circa 2007. Both are back, FYI, so dig yours out. XOXO.
Sex And The City
Now's the time to dive headfirst into the famous foursome's wardrobes and, if you've got time on your hands, do a Carrie-style clearout in your own.
Next In Fashion
Next In Fashion has drama, seriously impressive design and surprisingly heart-warming moments. If that doesn't have you hooked, stick around for Tan France and Alexa Chung's outfits. Our favourite? The latter's knitted bra and butter-wouldn't-melt cardigan. Delicious.
Westworld
Tessa Thompson's character in Westworld, Charlotte Hale, is an Executive Director at Delos Destinations (aka, a total boss) and has a read the rulebook on power outfits cover to cover.
The Good Wife/The Good Fight
Diane Lockhart for President. Am I right? The lawyer's wardrobe of sharp-shouldered blazers is Oval Office stuff.
Sex Education
Her penchant for silk blouses predated Shiv's (remember The Fall?), and now Gillian Anderson is bringing her celebrated je ne sais quoi to Netflix's Sex Education. Jean Millburn = our shirt-dress-wearing hero.
The Marvellous Mrs Maisel
If you need cheering up - and fast - watch The Marvellous Mrs Maisel. It's set in 1950s New York, miles away from 2020's myriad worries, and features Rachael Brosnahan as Midge Maisel, a Jewish housewife who becomes a stand-up after her husband is unfaithful. Cue the most charming costumes - and comedy - of the century.
The Crown
We still fantasise about the tiaras and ball gowns belonging to Princess Margaret. The Crown's fourth season is just around the corner and features a very stylish arrival in the form of Princess Diana. Mark your calendars for 15 November.
Black-ish
Rainbow (Johnson) by name and rainbow by nature. Tracee Ellis Ross's character in Black-ish serves up feel-good fashion - and plenty of it.
Killing Eve
The many faces of Villanelle never ceases to shock, awe and, frankly, make us envious that an assassin's salary gets you garms from The Vampire's Wife, Rosie Assoulin and Molly Goddard. Hurry up, season three!
Insecure
Issa, the loveable lead in Insecure, has a sunny-side-up wardrobe (that she occasionally buys and then returns, don't judge).