There is a hyper-focus on hair health right now. If hair isn’t dry, it’s dull or barely grows. Then there’s scalp health to contend with. Sound familiar? Then you’ve probably heard about Jamaican black castor oil (JBCO). It’s not a new ingredient, in fact, it’s been around for centuries, used in Eastern Africa as medicine for varying ailments. And now, it’s the black beauty community’s best-kept secret. Hydrating, rich and nourishing, it has a stellar reputation for increasing hair shine, suppleness and strength.
Scan the shelves in your local black hair shop or online, and you'll soon come across brands such as Sunny Isle Jamaican Black Oil, Shea Moisture, Eco Style Professional and Jamaican Mango & Lime Original Black Castor Oil. Used in the best shampoos and the best conditioners, and as a natural oil, it is commonly used as a treatment to soften, moisturise and strengthen hair, while soothing and conditioning the scalp, thanks to its antibacterial, antimicrobial properties.
But where does Jamaican black castor oil come from? What is it made of? How does it promote hair growth? We picked the brains of hair stylists, skin experts and trichologists.
Is Jamaican black castor oil good for the hair?
'Black castor oil is a go-to for many as it has great moisturising benefits for the hair whether used as a treatment masque or an occasional moisturiser as it’s rich in vitamin E and fatty acids.' shares Deborah Johnson, Co-Owner of SIMPLYGorgeous Hair Salon. "It’s also a natural humectant that allows hair to retain moisture. Plus, because of its essential proteins and nutrients, BCO can also be used to soothe sore or inflamed scalps. That said, ‘it’s best not to apply it too often as because it’s thick, it can sit on the scalp and disrupt the natural secretion of sebum.'
Does Jamaican black castor oil promote hair growth?
But for all its brilliance, don’t believe all you read. There isn’t any conclusive scientific evidence that proves that Jamaican black castor oil promotes hair growth. “JBCO claims to lead to better oil absorption in the hair shaft because of the alkalinity (higher pH), ensuring moisture retention which then prevents breakage and damage,” says Trichologist Dr. Ingrid Wilson. "In addition, its antimicrobial properties help condition the scalp’s health. That, combined with moisture retention, provides the right environment to stimulate hair growth, but JBCO doesn’t make the hair grow once it’s applied."
Does Jamaican black castor oil have any other benefits besides hair growth claims?
Jamaican black castor oil is incredible for soothing and calming the scalp, eliminating dry and brittle hair, reducing split ends, tackling dandruff, promoting circulation to the scalp, and encouraging moisture retention in the hair shaft. JBCO can also be used sparingly on eyelashes, eyebrows, and beards; although it doesn’t guarantee hair growth, it is incredible at hydrating and conditioning.
SHOP: 6 of the Best Jamaican Black Castor Oils & Castor Oils
The Best Jamaican Black Castor Oils & Castor Oils
Briogeo B Well Cold-Pressed Organic Castor Oil
This cold-pressed castor oil helps to deep-condition, hydrate and revive the hair. It can also be used on the eyebrows and eyelashes using a spoolie, coated through the strands.
Jamaican Mango & Lime Original Black Castor Oil
This thick and pure oil brings the moisture and sheen back to the hair, nourishing it from root to tip. Massage into the hair and scalp for further follicle stimulation.
Heritage Store Castor Oil
This multitasking castor oil does it all, conditioning the hair, skin, and body with its hydrating benefits; it boosts strength, shine, and fullness.
Sunny Isle Jamaican Black Castor Oil
If you're going to introduce castor oil into your routine, what better way than the brand that introduced the ingredient? The Sunny Isle JBCO softens, moisturises, and strengthens the hair in just one use.
Amphora Aromatics Organic Castor Oil
With its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, you can find that castor oil works wonders for calming and soothing the scalp, with a small amount of finger massage onto the scalp to help calm and soothe any irritation.
Black Castor Shea Oil Restoring Black Castor Oil, £4,49
Formulated with shea butter, castor oil and plant keratin, it helps restore and eliminate dry and frizzy hair. Introduced as a leave-in oil after wash day to help seal in the moisture.
Castor oil vs Jamaican Black castor oil
To understand the origins of JBCO, we must first understand castor oil. Native to Africa, castor oil is extracted from the seeds of the castor oil plant, which, when cold-pressed, turns into an almost transparent pale-yellow colour. Jamaican black castor oil, on the other hand, is extracted using a traditional West Indian method. The seeds are roasted and then pulverised with a mortar before adding water and being slowly boiled over a wood fire. The mashed seeds, once cool, create a thick, potent, and dark brown castor oil, commonly known as Jamaican black castor oil. Not as commercially processed as castor oil, JBCO is purer with considerably greater nutrient content, benefiting the hair, follicles and skin.
Can it work on all hair types?
Yes, JBCO can be used on all hair types; its properties benefit the hair and the scalp
What Is the best way to apply Jamaican black castor oil?
“As part of your wash day routine, BCO can be added to your conditioner or mask as an added moisturising step for hair that is particularly dry,” says Johnson, who also recommends applying it to the ends of the hair when damp to keep them moisturised and protected.
Is JBCO good for the skin?
Some people say that Jamaican castor oil has been a miracle ingredient for treating their skin concerns because of its anti-inflammatory properties. However, Dija Ayodele, Skincare Expert and Author of BLACK SKIN: The Definitive Skincare Guide, says “you shouldn’t apply it directly onto the skin as it’s quite thick and can clog the pores. You would need to layer it over a moisturiser like any other oil. Whilst it does have anti-inflammatory properties, it wouldn’t be the first product I would recommend on the skin and certainly not for anyone with acne-prone skin”.
So, although Jamaican black castor oil still lacks conclusive evidence that it stimulates hair growth, the natural ingredient retains many other moisturising and conditioning properties that pertain to the health of the scalp and hair. If introducing it into your routine, do remember to use it sparingly as too much can slow your sebum production, ultimately drying out the hair (the opposite of what we want) — a little goes a long way.
And for that extra shine on wash day...
SHOP: 5 of the Best Jamaican Black Castor Oils & Castor Oil Shampoo & Conditioners
The Best Jamaican Black Castor Oils & Castor Oil Shampoo & Conditioners
Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen & Restore Shampoo, £12.99
The whole Jamaican black castor oil range by Shea Moisture is impressive, but if you were to invest in anything, it would be the shampoo. Removing the thickness of pure JBCO, this shampoo works through the hair and cleanses the scalp, removing any build-up of impurities. Also formulated with Apple Cider Vinegar, Shea Butter and Peppermint leaf extract, hair will be softened, enhanced, and nourished from root to tip.
As I Am Jamaican Black Castor Oil Leave-In Conditioner
Post-shampoo and conditioner, using this product as a pre-styling treatment is essential for detangling and hydrating the curls. The beauty of this leave-in is that it is formulated with Jamaican black castor oil to help replenish and restore fibre health whilst increasing moisture retention and locking in shine.
Sunny Isle Extra Dark Jamaican Black Castor Oil Extreme Hydration & Detangling Shampoo 355ml
Sunny Isle bottles Jamaican black castor oil in its purest form; the extra dark version promotes a more substantial nutrient density. Applied to the hair as your first cleansing shampoo, this will strip away the dirt and build-up whilst coating the hair with the essential nutrients it needs.
Arganicare Castor Oil Shampoo
Saturated with castor oil, shea butter, vitamin E and argan oil, you can expect hair to be restored and ultimately conditioned with this blend of butters and oils. Combining the unique properties of these ingredients, consider your hair and scalp thoroughly looked after.
Philip Kingsley Elasticizer Deep-Conditioning Treatment
The ultimate hair care preparation before wash day, this elasticising deep-conditioning treatment is formulated with castor oil to help deliver the moisture and strength your hair needs. Reducing breakage whilst improving shine, elasticity, and hydration is the perfect addition to your wash day routine.