To say that the spring summer 19 trends should come with a (credit card) warning is an understatement. For next summer most the key looks we have come to love will be irrelevant (sorry) and new, fresh ideas will take their place. Animal print and the brown palette that’s everywhere right now remains alluring, but it’s matched by a new relaxed coolness that’s a little more undone and multicoloured. This means tie-dye takes a seat at the table alongside pedal pushers, and our personal favourite comeback trend, the big bag. Yes, ladies, we can say goodbye to the obessesion with impractical micro bags as gargantuan totes have returned!
As ever, New York Fashion Week was the first stop on the four-month, four-city, two-continent merry-go-round that is fashion month. It saw Rodarte and Proenza Schouler return to the schedule, a late-but-great Marc Jacobs show and Rihanna doing what she does best (AKA disrupting the status quo) with a Fenty show that included heavily pregnant models.
At London Fashion Week a looming Brexit didn’t overshadow the capital’s designers. If anything, it made them bolder and braver. A neon tide splashed over House of Holland while wallpaper prints made waves at Richard Quinn, meanwhile, Riccardo Tisci made his debut at Burberry with a collection that we’re summing at as ‘bad and bourgeoisie’. Why? Because he used the codes of elegance - a subtle palette and sharp tailoring - with a soupçon of irony (see: duck taped heels and maroon passport holder accessories).
In Italy, a country also besieged by its own political problems had managed to lose one of its big-draw shows, Gucci, to Paris Fashion Week. This did nothing to deter the Milan loyalists from presenting their normal quotient of glamour (courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana and its diverse cast, Fendi’s luxe ‘functional’ clothing and Prada’s tie-dye dresses with plush headbands).
By the time the SS19 shows started in Paris, the hype around Hedi Slimane’s first collection as creative director of Celine (not Céline) had hit fever pitch. His debut may have had a marmite effect on insiders, but one thing everyone agreed on was how marvellous Chanel’s out of office message was. Alongside Jacquemus and Chloé, Karl Lagerfeld got (nearly) everyone in a holiday mindset. When we say nearly, we mean not Givenchy, Miu Miu or Gucci who presented tights and top-to-toe leather suits for a spring and summer season. Madness? Possibly, but then when is fashion not a little esoteric?
For those looking to ground themselves in the only spring trends to know, then look no further than our ultimate SS19 trend report
Out Of Office
As seen at: Jacquemus, Chanel, Chloe, Sonia Rykiel, Salvatore Ferragmo
Set the OOO on for spring summer 2018 as we're heading to the beach club. Think of this as boho for 2018 (meaning more PC than it's early naughties iteration). More haute than Love Island, the swimsuit (both bikini and one-piece) was on the agenda at Jacquemus who referenced the Italian Riviera and Chanel who built a beach in the centre of Paris (complete with a wave machine). All the seaside accruement, like beach hats, straw bags, sarongs and even flip-flops gain relevance too. The latter of which displaced other sandal trends at Molly Goddard, Acne Studios and Chloé.
As seen at: Proenza Schouler, R13, Isabel Marant, Eckhaus Latta, MSGM, Ashley Williams, Stella McCartney
Between Stella McCartney and MSGM, the spring summer 19 catwalks weren't short of tie-dye, but it was more than the gnarly patterns that made us think of the counterculture desire to 'turn on, tune in, drop out'. With Brett Kavanaugh's senatorial nomination playing in the background, the urge to turn off the constant buzz of social media and slack off was felt across the catwalk spectrum, especially with Calvin Klein's homage to Jaws 2, which came out amongst the climate of 1970s paranoia.
Bad And Bourgeoise
As seen at: Burberry, Max Mara, Richard Quinn, Chanel, Emilia Wickstead, Balenciaga, Marta Jakubowski, Hermes
From oatmeal to chocolate, brown in its many variations was internationally agreed on as a key colour for SS19. Of course, at Fendi, Hermes and Max Mara this was expected, but at Burberry and Balmain it came as a bit of a surprise. Alongside this new tonal trend came a new mood to match, one that plays with the fantasy of how we imagine the monied to dress. Meaning skirt suits and housecoats, subtle jewellery and exquisite textures.
Manic Panic Prints
As seen at: Dolce & Gabbana, Balenciaga, _Off-White, Louis Vuitton__, Erdem, Simone Rocha, Burberry, Ashley Williams, Matty Bovan, Richard Quinn_
After years of minimalism, we're living through a print renaissance. Winter's leopard print has the volume turned up at Giambattista Vali and Richard Quinn while florals (it's spring, duh) become less ladylike and more chaotic. Between the glamorous bouquets at Dolce & Gabbana and the hypnotic blooms at Alexander McQueen there was one thing all these patterns had in common…a more-is-more mentality. Follow Burberry's lead and match your polka dot blouse and skirt to your equally dotty shoes.
As seen at: _Miu Miu, Balenciaga, Celine,_ _Marc Jacobs, Marine Serre, Givenchy, Gucci, Valentino, Hermes_
It's getting hot in here, but don't take off all your clothes because next summer the temperature may be rising but Marc Jacobs and a coterie of labels recommend layering up. Tights, ankle boots and leather tailoring may not sound like natural spring or summer trends, but enough designers have agreed otherwise.
As seen at: Miu Miu, Prada, Erdem, Saint Laurent, Moschino, Chanel, Ashley Williams, Celine, Erdem, Simone Rocha
If 2018 was the year of the statement earring, then 2019 will be the era of headwear. With Bill Cunningham's memoir, Fashion Climbing, about his years as a milliner out this autumn it was very apt that every sort of possible variation - from face nets (Celine and Erdem) to headbands (Miu Miu and Prada) to even straw baseball caps (Chanel) - found their way to the SS19 runways. As the saying goes 'you're never fully dressed without a hat'.
Lil' Bow Wows
As seen at: Ryan Lo, Roksanda, Brock Collection, Miu Miu, Celine, Emilia Wickstead, Erdem, Giambattista Valli, Moschino, Celine, Burberry
Bows of every size and shape were by far the most feminine and likely the most prolific of all the SS19 trends. Attached to hair at Emilia Wickstead and the front of dresses at Celine, they acted in a practical sense as closures at Roksanda and Rejina Pyo.
As seen at: Alexander McQueen, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Jacquemus, Molly Goddard, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton
Following on from last season's 1980s trend, designers continued to explore the decade with inspiration that gave us Studio 54 and Dynasty for SS19. Come spring and summer's wedding season opt for a one-shoulder dress to be in-keeping with Molly Goddard, Saint Laurent and Jacquemus.
As seen at: Marc Jacobs, Brandon Maxwell, ALEXACHUNG, Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Erdem, Etro, Givenchy, Gucci, Max Mara, Carolina Herrera
La La Land lemon is all very well, but this incoming spring it's a rich yellowy gold that strikes a more zesty note. So-called Aspen gold because this tone is a byword for luxury, hence why everyone from Chanel to Brandon Maxwell, Etro and Gucci are banking on its appeal.
As seen at: Givenchy, Sacai, Asai, Fendi, Hermes, Sies Marjan, Stella McCartney, Alberta Ferretti, Marine Serre
There is no getting away from the cargo pant come spring. Be it low and grungy (Asai) or elegant (Givenchy), the preoccupation with a modern take on All Saint's favourite trouser peaked at Marine Serre when transformed into a dress with every conceivable pocket possible. Make space in your wardrobe as this trend is both practical and pleasing.
As seen at: _Victoria Beckham__, Proenza Schouler, Matty Bovan, Rejina Pyo, Jacquemus, Jil Sander, Hermes, Loewe_
Say 'buh-bye' to micro bags and make room for the monstrously huge handbags. At Victoria Beckham they are so big the weight needs to be carried on the hip, at Proenza Schouler Ikea-sized mega totes lolled off the shoulder while at Jacquemus the mega straw bag displaced the label's famous La Bomba sunhat in the supersized stakes.
As seen at: ALEXACHUNG, Alyx, Proenza Schouler, Tibi, Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton
A cohort of designers - Proenza Schouler, Louis Vuitton and Alexander McQueen included - sent waistcoats down the runway. At ALEXACHUNG they were buttoned-up and worn with matching trousers, as if a matching blazer had just been ditched. Balenziaga's black leather waistcoat was cinched by a belt while Tibi's was nearer an oversize blazer and worn loose.
Blazing The Way
As seen at: CALVINKLEIN205W39C, Celine, Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Tod's, Christian Dior
On the topic of tailoring, the blazer, which has become a mainstay of most women's on- and off-duty wardrobes increases in relevance for SS19. Oversized is best, as seen at Marc Jacobs, but slim-fit, like that at Miu Miu and Christian Dior, is just as entrancing.
Alongside the grand conceptual trends, were micro-moments that deserve attention too. Our personal favourites? Token tees, like that picked up in museum gift shops, waist-cinching belts (Brock Collection to Chanel, Fendi to Balmain), ruched tulle and ra-ra ruffles.