It might not have the swinging attitude of the '60s, or the power-shouldered decadence of the '80s, but there's something about 1950s fashion. Glamorous and gorgeously refined, it was a pivotal moment in the history of style after the Second World War, the ultimate vibe shift from rationed clothing to a new era of romance.
The pioneer of this movement was the fashion designer Christian Dior, whose life as the godfather of fashion as fantasy has been made into a new drama series on AppleTV+, The New Look, which drops next week on 14 February. Its name is derived from the couturier's 'New Look', a way of dressing that he created in 1947 but that rippled through the proceeding decade as women discovered their waistlines. Hannah Rogers, The Times' assistant fashion editor and stylist, as well as the author of the upcoming The Dior Style Principles, explains the ground-breaking nature of the Frenchman's New Look. 'His eponymous take on the hourglass - a waspish waist with rounded hips and shoulders - dictated silhouettes through the Fifties,' she says, adding that it was Dior, who created his own fashion house in 1946, who heralded a new mood in the world of fashion as well as a whole new way to showcase the female body. 'He brought a sense of romance back into fashion at a time when, just after World War II, soberness reigned. He reinstated luxury - real, in your face opulence - in the face of rationing and austerity. I think overall he gave women permission to enjoy getting dressed again and to play into a fantasy through their wardrobes.'
As well as a remarkably whittled silhouette that was usually achieved by the combination of an exaggerated jacket and a high-waisted skirt, a well-heeled woman of the 1950s would have accessorised her outfit with cat-eye sunglasses, a modest heel and a top-handled handbag that sat in the crook of her elbow. Compared to future decades, this was fashion at its most feminine, an ultra ladylike approach to getting dressed that we associate with film stars of the 1950s, immaculately coiffed women like Doris Day, Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly.
In 2024, it's a little tricky to wear a similar get-up without appearing as if you're late for a fancy dress party. But what you can do is imitate the decade's elegance, cherry-picking particular pieces that have a distinctly 1950s flavour.
Cropped Trousers
Doris Day, America's blonde-haired sweetheart who was born in 1922, helped to popularise capri-length trousers, which sat high on the waist and stopped a few inches below the knee, exposing a good foot of skin from mid-calf to ankle. As you can see, this particular item of clothing was about showcasing an hourglass silhouette as she paired the trousers with a crisp white shirt that was popped at the collar and tucked in at the waist. Interestingly, capri pants or, to use their 21st century name, 'pedal pushers' have recently experienced a resurgence thanks to renewed celebrity interest from the likes of Gigi Hadid, who styled her denim pair with slingback heels. Doris Day might have preferred an elegant ballet flat - well, see was riding a bike at the time - but, otherwise, their outfits have the same vital stats.
shop.mango.com
A modern take on capri pants - that's still very Funny Face - is capri leggings, which stop just below the knee. Because you've got quite a big stretch of leg on show, it's a good idea to balance out the look with something like a sharp-shouldered blazer or an oversized shirt.
Silk Scarves
In the 1950s, women often wore a scarf to protect their hair from the elements, knotting it underneath the chin as an oh-so-elegant way to ensure flyaways stayed away. Viola Davis' character in Fences, Rose Maxson, folded her square-shaped scarf into a triangle to create a rather chic point at the back. Audrey Hepburn also liked to tie little scarves around her neck with a boat-necked blouse.
www.prada.com
Prada's printed silk twill scarf is perfect for tying around your ponytail, knotting underneath your chin or decorating the straps of your top-handle handbag, another hallmark of 1950s fashion.
Full Midi Skirts
After Christian Dior's New Look became the silhouette du jour, full skirts that flared out from the waist and finished anywhere between the knee and the mid-calf were the only style to be seen in. In the above scene from Mona Lisa Smile, which tells the story of art teacher trying convince her students that marriage isn't the only job for a woman in 1950s America, the all-star cast wear midi skirts that would have been influenced by what was happening in the salon fashion shows in Paris.
www.stories.com
& Other Stories has several full midi skirts that are distinctly 50s, including this flaring style with a tie-waist. Finishing somewhere on the mid-calf, depending on your height, it's romantic while still being practical enough to be everyday, especially if you style it with something easy like a grey crew-neck sweater.
Florals
In the daywear wardrobes of 1950s women, you would have found a healthy dose of hot-house florals like the above shift worn by Gemma Chan, who played a 1950s housewife in 2022's psychological thriller Don't Worry Darling. Floral dresses are now ubiquitous, especially during summer, but for a truly '50s take on the trend, opt for a cinch-waisted frock with little cap sleeves.
Polo Ralph Lauren's blossom-flecked shirt dress has the perfect '50s proportions, with its cinch-wasted silhouette and capped sleeves.
Pearl Necklaces
Grace Kelly was one of the ultimate '50s style icons, becoming a household name after she stared in Alfred Hitchcock's Rear Window. Her costumes were quintessentially '50s, with a belt that would perfectly sculpt her silhouette into an hourglass and an equally important piece of jewellery - a three-stranded pearl necklace that sat at her throat. When she became actual royalty as well as acting royalty, marrying in 1956 to become the Princess of Monaco, she would wear her own three-stranded pearl necklace gifted to her by her husband Prince Rainier, which was made by Van Cleef & Arpels.
www.astridandmiyu.com
Astrid & Miyu's necklace is the modern way to do pearls. Made with freshwater pearl beads, it's ideal for stacking with your other necklaces.
Pastel Knitwear
In Walk in Line, which charts the rise of country music legend Johnny Cash, Reese Witherspoon, who played his equally talented wife June Carter Cash, was the personification of the wholesome '50s pin-up, with flaring skirts, modest heels and plenty of pastel knitwear for her more off-duty moments.
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Benetton's crew-neck cardigan comes in a dazzling array of pastel shades - including soft pink, sky blue and light green - and is made using extra-fine 100% merino wool that has been certified by Woolmark, guaranteeing certain standards when it comes to the production of the wool, from farm to final product.
White Shirts
Gwyneth Paltrow's costumes in The Talented Mr Ripley, the psychological thriller based on the novel by Patricia Highsmith, were a tour de force in 1950s fashion and, in particular, the wonder of the humble white shirt. The perfect garment for summering in Italy - but sharp enough to cut a dash in the city - it became a staple when paired with either a cinch-waisted skirt or capri-length trousers. Tie yours at the waist à la Marge Sherwood.
Everlane's Oxford shirt has a relaxed fit, making it perfect for tying at the waist and popping the collar. Made from 100% organic cotton, it will fast become a wardrobe cornerstone, pairing brilliantly with everything from baggy jeans to maxi skirts.
Natalie Hammond is Grazia’s Senior Fashion News Editor. She loves winter, hates summer and can often be found writing about the weather (and what on earth to wear).