The Five Takeaways From Max Mara At Milan Fashion Week

Both Hadid sisters walked.

Gigi Hadid walking at Max Mara

by Natalie Hammond |

Max Mara's latest show was a typically timeless homage to Sophie Taeuber-Arp, the modernist architect, dancer, textile designer, painter and sculptor who was a contemporary of Wassily Kandinsky, Paul Klee and Guillaume Apollinaire. Meeting at Zurich's Cabaret Voltaire, Taeuber-Arp and her fellow artists of the avant-garde created an astonishing new aesthetic: Dada. Max Mara's silhouettes - surprisingly bold in their simplicity - are articulated with just as much aplomb as King Stag, Taeuber-Arp's most famous work.

Big Strides

A model on the catwalk at Max Mara
©Max Mara

Trousers got the supersized treatment, turning into swishing strides that pooled around flat ankle boots. As long as there aren't any puddles, we're in.

Snuggle Up

A model on the catwalk at Max Mara
©Max Mara

Super-long sweater dresses - worn with knitted balaclavas and gloves - are the best way to stay snuggly when temperatures reach sub-zero.

Bum Bag

A model on the catwalk at Max Mara
©Max Mara

Expect to see the brand's take on the bum bag - part bag, part hand-warmer - on a lucky few next winter. Can you imagine anything more snuggly?

The XL Glove

A model on the catwalk at Max Mara
©Max Mara

The elbow-length glove made an elegant appearance at Max Mara (ditto at Fendi). It's a shortcut to easy glamour, especially when styled with a sweater vest so that just a slice of upper arm is exposed to the elements.

The Modern Biker

A model on the catwalk at Max Mara
©Max Mara

The biker jacket is big news this season - and next. Max Mara's take - in egg yolk yellow - feels as fresh as a daisy.

Gallery

SEE: The Highlights From MFW AW22

Giorgio Armani
1 of 48

Giorgio Armani, out of respect for the people involved in the situation in Ukraine, decided against using music in his show on Sunday, letting his models, instead, walk in silence.

Giorgio Armani
2 of 48

Giorgio Armani
3 of 48

Dolce & Gabbana
4 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Dolce & Gabbana clearly had one decade on the mind: the '80s, where power shoulders and poses reigned supreme. (The sheer tights - sans toes - were a modern touch that we can imagine all the street-stylers copying next season).

Dolce & Gabbana
5 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Dolce & Gabbana
6 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Jil Sander
7 of 48

Jil Sander is the ultimate in stealth wealth style. 'Every piece is self-standing, iconic, and executed with exceptional artistry, in sumptuous wools and silks,' read the show notes - and we couldn't agree more, from the tailoring (elevated with a knotted waist) to the outerwear in the most pleasing selection of neutrals.

Jil Sander
8 of 48

Jil Sander
9 of 48

Versace
10 of 48

A high-octane energy was felt at Versace, where this season's woman, 'fully owns her allure and knows exactly when to unleash her power'. Midnight black latex and frayed tweeds met their super-sexy matches in the form of cropped silk bustiers and punky pearl necklaces, while the LBD, as seen on Precious Lee, was recast as the ultimate way to be a 'regal rebel'.

Versace
11 of 48

Versace
12 of 48

Gucci
13 of 48

With the best front row at Milan Fashion Week - Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Serena Williams, Jared Leto and Francis Bourgeois - Gucci's show delivered another (soon-to-be) sell-out collaboration, this time with Adidas. Double-breasted suits were upgraded with the sportswear giant's signature stripes, knitwear came emblazoned with the combined logo and sporty knit dresses were 'Guccified'. Expect big things (and waiting lists) when it launches later this spring.

Gucci
14 of 48

Gucci
15 of 48

Etro
16 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Etro's collection, with its usual celebration of craftsmanship, had plenty of bravura, from the printed combat trousers tucked into studded cowboy boots to the battered aviator jackets worn over leopard-spotted crop tops.

Etro
17 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Etro
18 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Sportmax
19 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Sportmax's catwalk was the hottest of hot pinks - ironic, perhaps, considering that most of the collection was vampy red, midnight black or simmeringly sexy beige (yes, really). The vinyl dress - worn with a pair of gloves that only covered the fingers - was very good indeed.

Sportmax
20 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Sportmax
21 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Missoni
22 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Having walked in Roberto Cavalli, it didn't come as much of a shock that Iris Law, with her bleach blonde crop, also appeared at Missoni. The collection embraced the oversized and the exuberant. Wide-leg strides were worn with baggy (but elegantly so) jumpers, while bright yellows, greens and reds were spotted in abundance.

Missoni
23 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Missoni
24 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Tod's
25 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Tod's always designs some of the best outerwear in Milan - stealth wealth leather coats; wrap coats; quilted coats; single-breasted 'means-business' coats - but this season, it was the knitwear that made fashion editors sit up and pay listen, from the variegated-knit puffer jacket worn over a chunky polo neck to the fringed cape fastened over a leather biker jacket (big news).

Tod's
26 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Tod's
27 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Moschino
28 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

One of fashion's greatest showman - Jeremy Scott, who last season showed in New York - made a grand return to Milan. And this season, in typically kitsch and surreal fashion, he was musing on the idea of a well-appointed house. The kind of objects one might find - baroque-style picture frames, stately armoires, grandfather clocks and chandeliers - appeared, as you can probably guess, as cartoonishly theatrical clothes. Brava.

Moschino
29 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Moschino
30 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Emporio Armani
31 of 48

Milan is the capital of glamour. But to Mr. Armani, the word has become synonymous with 'sparkle, seduction and allure.' Instead, for AW22, he wanted to take glamour back to its roots, 'personal charm', delivering a pared-back but polished collection of muted greys, which enveloped the body as outerwear, Mr. Armani's take on loungewear (read: chic) and effortless eveningwear in the form of the LBD (long black dress).

Emporio Armani
32 of 48

Emporio Armani
33 of 48

Prada
34 of 48

With a mega-watt front row - Euphoria's Storm Reid, Sex Education's Emma Mackey, Shtisel's Shira Haas - and highly 'grammable invitations (the label sent pastel-hued silk pyjamas to attending editors), Prada was just major as always. All the street style stars were wearing last-season's biker jackets and satin miniskirts. Next season's cult buys? The logoed tank tops (which opened and closed the show, no less) and the feathered jackets (spotted on Kendall Jenner).

Prada
35 of 48

Prada
36 of 48

Max Mara
37 of 48

Max Mara's latest show was a typically timeless homage to Sophie Taeuber-Arp, the modernist architect, dancer, textile designer, painter and sculptor who was a contemporary of Wassily Kandinsky, Paul Klee and Guillaume Apollinaire. Meeting at Zurich's Cabaret Voltaire, Taeuber-Arp and her fellow artists of the avant-garde created an astonishing new aesthetic: Dada. Max Mara's silhouettes - surprisingly bold in their simplicity - are articulated with just as much aplomb as King Stag, Taeuber-Arp's most famous work.

Max Mara
38 of 48

Max Mara
39 of 48

Roberto Cavalli
40 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Vintage Roberto Cavalli is having a revival - Rihanna owns a sheer maxi skirt from 2003 - so it made sense that yesterday's show felt like a celebration of the house's most enduring hits. Iris Law, another fan of vintage, opened the show in a choker minidress with a caged neckline that had undertones of Anne Boleyn. Naturally, plenty of big cat prints followed - the tiger-striped slip gets a mention for its not-so-subtle sex appeal - as well as leather bandeau tops that are definitely here to stay thanks to Julia Fox.

Roberto Cavalli
41 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Roberto Cavalli
42 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Alberta Ferretti
43 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Alberta Ferretti stuck to its guns for autumn - delivering a boho-luxe wardrobe in a sumptuous colour palette of amethyst, peacock and gun-metal grey, the latter of which appeared as silvery trousers and a swooping caped gown.

Alberta Ferretti
44 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Alberta Ferretti
45 of 48
CREDIT: Getty

Fendi
46 of 48

Kim Jones raided the archives for AW22, inspired by Delfina Delettrez, who one day walked into the brand's headquarters wearing a printed blouse borrowed from her mother's wardrobe. Intrigued, he looked back to SS86, a famous collection of Karl Lagerfeld's. He reworked its prints, while copying the diaphanous lightness of another collection, AW00. 'It's a wardrobe designed for every aspect of a woman's life, for every generation,' says Jones. 'And it all started with Delfina.' Bella Hadid opened the show wearing a wisp of chiffon as a slip dress (worn with elbow-length cashmere gloves); Bibi Abdulkadir, meanwhile, emerged in a whip-smart leather minidress. 'There is always a story behind each piece, something a little different,' says Silvia Venturini Fendi.

Fendi
47 of 48

Fendi
48 of 48

Just so you know, whilst we may receive a commission or other compensation from the links on this website, we never allow this to influence product selections - read why you should trust us