Richard Quinn, who was the first recipient of the Queen Elizabeth II Award, was tasked with closing London Fashion Week - and, under unprecedented circumstances, delivered the most moving (and extraordinary) tribute to the Queen. In the black carpeted and curtained space of Lindley Hall, guests were greeted by a giant sphere suspended in the centre, which was covered with surveillance cameras and screens (a visualisation, perhaps, of that famous saying, 'I have to be seen to be believed,' of the Queen's?). As the show started, with archival footage of the late monarch flickering onto the monitors, it quickly became clear that Quinn, in a remarkable act of homage, must have changed his collection significantly after the news broke. The first 22 looks were rendered in black lace, silk and velvet, with beaded crowns, intricately embroidered veils and silk scarves knotted underneath the chin. And although these eventually gave way to vividly sculpted (and feathered) silhouettes, the quiet beauty of those first looks, especially when the heavens opened, raining with black confetti, was truly exceptional to witness.
At Thursday's opening show, Daniel W. Fletcher, the designer kicked off - not just the night but London Fashion Week - with a minute's silence for the Queen. The setting was the basement ballroom of The Londoner, which, rather appropriately was carpeted with black. Fletcher - whose collection, Stand and Deliver, was an homage to the figures that have made a home in London - sent out a modern morning suit for his first look; a solemn tribute to the Queen, with a singular armband worn on the left sleeve. With his typical sense of flair, the suit wasn't worn with a tie but simply with a black button-down and stomper-style brogues.
It was a strong start - King's Road punks, Savile Row tailors, Soho's late-night characters and, of course, the royal family all served as inspiration to Fletcher - to what is set to be a rather unusual LFW. The British Fashion Council confirmed earlier last week that the show would go on, albeit with significant alterations to the schedule to ensure that the entire event is in keeping with the national mood.
At Harris Reed, Adam Lambert, who performed at this year's Platinum Party at the Palace, alongside Queen, sung a powerful rendition of Who Wants to Live Forever. Lily McMenamy closed the demi-couture slow as the bride, wearing a micro version of his famous hoop skirts that fanned outwards, as well as a similarly giant hat made in collaboration with Vivienne Lake. In her hands was a bouquet of lily of the valley, a flower that's known as a symbol of joy, as well as rebirth. It was also a favourite of the Queen's.
'A lot of deep consideration went into understanding and reevaluating the times that we are in and wanting to make sure that the show felt very appropriate, but also, in a polite way, the show must go on,' Reed told Grazia. 'The finale look features lily of the valley, the Queen’s favourite flower, as our nod to her 70-year reign.'
SEE: How Designers At London Fashion Week Are Paying Tribute To The Queen
1 of 9Richard Quinn
At Richard Quinn, the first 22 looks were rendered in black lace, silk and velvet - with the models either wearing beaded crowns, veils, net face coverings or silk scarves knotted under their chins - and was a quietly beautiful tribute to the late monarch.
2 of 9Halpern
For his first look, Michael Halpern designed this homage to the Queen - a sky blue cape of regal proportions worn with a silk scarf knotted underneath the model's chin - and let her glide around the catwalk in silence.
3 of 9Nensi Dojaka
A sprig of lily of the valley, a favourite flower of the Queen's, was tied with a white ribbon and given to each model for the finale of Nensi Dojaka.
4 of 9JW Anderson
To close his show, which was rather ingeniously staged in a gaming arcade with guests perched on bar stools, Jonathan Anderson designed a structured 'tee' dress with a message of thanks to Her Majesty The Queen.
5 of 9S.S. Daley
At S.S. Daley, every model carried a long white candlestick for the finale in tribute to the Queen.
6 of 9Eudon Choi
At Eudon Choi, attendees were treated to a 'trip' to the South of France, specifically the French Riviera, a place where 'the vibrant seascape is alive both day and night'. Inspired as usual by men's tailoring, Choi mixed those codes with 1930s beachwear. The result was the kind of palazzo pants that barely touch your skin; striped suits; sailor-style blouses and slinky dresses that are made for after-hours cocktails by a still pool. Choi also took his finale bow wearing a black suit and tie to pay his respects to the Queen.
7 of 9Bora Aksu
Bora Aksu's show was held at London Scottish House's Victorian Drill Hall, a rather extraordinary venue of historical significance that is used as the rehearsal space for the London Scottish Pipes and Drums. A drummer, in fact, actually opened the show. And, particularly for whoever watched the procession with its solemn drumbeat on Wednesday, it was a rousing experience that felt in-step with a collection that featured 1930s-style military jackets, trench coats and shirting. Aksu also held a minute's silence for the Queen - and left black ribbon pins on each seat as a mark of respect.
8 of 9Harris Reed
For this season's show, Reed drew inspiration from the rigorous codes of a debutante ball, reimagining the traditionally female tropes of crinolines and corsets for a new fluid society. As well as giving his bride a bouquet containing the favourite flowers of the Queen, the designer put a lot of thought into the show's changed circumstances, 're-adapting the music, making sure that the show was more poetic, a bit more, not sombre, but respectful, cancelling any after-party, making it more about a community, giving a cheer to everyone who has helped [in] the process, and really holding her in our thoughts.'
9 of 9Daniel W. Fletcher
As well as opening the show - and LFW - with a minute's silence for the Queen, Fletcher sent out his take on a morning suit for his opening look, pairing the wool tailoring with a black button-down and stomper-style brogues.