Sophie Turner’s Latest Role, With Hyper-Glam Costumes, Will Inspire Your Wardrobe This Season

Dynasty, Debbie Harry and The Go-Go's, just three of the eclectically telling references that found their way onto the moodboard for ITV's Joan, the six-part story of shape-shifting jewel thief Joan Hannington. Played by Sophie Turner, and based on the memoir I Am What I Am, the titular character's evolution from unsophisticated girl to criminal mastermind is one that's charted through her clothes, which, by turns, is jewel-toned (rather appropriately) and hyper-glam (ditto).

'At the beginning, Joan is provincial and unsophisticated. When she arrives in London, Nancy, her sister, gives her a makeover. Joan realises there’s more to life, there's something else and that she wants more,' said Richard Cooke, the costume designer whose research process very much started with the memoir, which offered a fascinating window into the real-life woman's wardrobe. 'Even though there were some very descriptive passages about clothing we knew we weren’t making a documentary. We took an ‘essence’ of what Joan wore and created a look that was ‘inspired’ by Joan. She was a shape-shifter, a consummate actor, who had great style and flair,' says Cooke.

Of the roughly 100 costumes for Joan, half were vintage - sourced from eBay, markets and places like The Dressing Room, Alfriston, and Accessories of Old, Fulham - while the other half were made from scratch, with original pieces from iconic designers of the last century such as Thierry Mugler. Cooke poured over newspapers and newsreels from the '80s, as well as Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Smash Hits and, interestingly, his own photos from that time period.

What was the highlight for Cooke? Joan's wedding outfit when she marries Boisie Hannington, inspired by Bianca Jagger, with a wide-brimmed hat and a cream-and-black blouse that was devised as a nod to _My Fair Lad_y, 'as Boisie takes Joan under his wing and to a degree educates her,' says Cooke, adding, 'It’s the closest I’ve got to creating a perfect costume and when Sophie was dressed on the day I had a tear in my eye, as much out of relief as out of pride,' he says.

Turner, Cooke adds, was a 'dream' to collaborate with on the costumes. 'I can honestly say she was game for anything. We had a great working relationship and she completely trusted me,' he says, remembering a particular outfit that caught her attention at the fitting room stage, the green-silk jumpsuit she wears to buy her engagement ring, which, styled with gold point-toe pumps and faux-fur chubby jacket, defines the series's power-charged mood. 'When we had the final fitting on that costume, we knew we had Joan,' says Cooke. 'Sophie loved it; it’s the costume she’s talked about most.'

Shop: The Best Joan-Inspired Pieces To Add To Your Wardrobe

Natalie Hammond is Grazia’s Senior Fashion News Editor. She loves winter, hates summer and can often be found writing about the weather (and what on earth to wear).