Next stop on the Cruise circuit? Castel del Monte – a 13th-century citadel on a hill in Andria, Puglia – for Gucci’s Cosmogonie show. The medieval castle, built by Emperor Frederick II of Hohenstaufen, King of Sicily, Germany and Italy, who was a patron of science and the arts, is not only an UNESCO World Heritage Site, but a place of intellectual meaning. Under a serendipitous full moon, following a lunar eclipse the previous day, the majestic fortress, lit by projections of shooting stars and constellation maps to the sound of Neil Armstrong’s voice-over from the 1969 Apollo 11 moon landing, was breath-taking.
And the guests wore…
Ties! Cowboy hats! Platforms! Never mind the instructions to wear flat shoes and bring a jacket – when it comes to Gucci, one must forget a sensible dress code. And so, the pre-show people-watching provided its own sort of trend-spotting, from Paul Mescal, who, dressed in a printed bomber jacket from the brand’s upcoming Adidas collab, obligingly played Instagram husband for atie-clad Elle Fanning (the friends had spent a previous day at the beach, with long-time Gucci girl Dakota Johnson) while Lana Del Rey made a case for summer feathers, before changing into a sparkly, sheer mini dress for the after-party.
Also spotted on the Gucci gaggle of influencers – three-piece satin suits, cowboy hats (see the glowing Lou Doillon), supersized shades and sky-high platforms.
Out-out dressing is back
Planned as a ‘rave’, rather than a traditional runway show, the overall mood was: nocturnal animals. Alessandro Michele is a deft hand at dramatic eveningwear (see the brand’s recent Met Gala coup, featuring Billie Eilish, Johnson and Jodie Turner-Smith) and last night was no exception. Acres of sheer fabrics were cinched and spliced with sequins, while swinging, shiny mini dresses, worn with 10 denier tights, metallic, glistening heels and '80s-inspired makeup - think heavy blush and a glossy red lip – were a call to the nearby dancefloor, where a charged, Gucci-laden Måneskin fired up the after-party. Even the denim came laden with heavy-encrusted embellishments.
Forget handbags; it’s all about the bicep bag
And so for the accessories. From patent lace-up thigh boots and platform gladiator sandals to monochrome peep-toe T-bar heels and ballet flats, editors and A-list exited compiling their shopping list. And that was just the footwear. Latex opera gloves were teamed with almost every look, with detachable Victorian ruffs worn around wrists and necks, instantly reviving the collar trend. Everything shone or sparkled – from the shoulder-grazing earrings to multi-strand pearl chokers. How to carry your bag next season? As a wallet strapped across your upper arm – we’re calling it the bicep bag.
