Sports fever isn’t dead. That was the message from Dior’s SS25 collection, where, fresh from delivering gold at this summer’s Olympics, the brand leant further into athletics – with a couture twist.
Inspired by the idea of the modern Amazon, and the global conversation surrounding gender quality, inclusivity and respect following this summer’s Olympic and Paralympic Games, Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri asked performer and visual artist SAGG Napoli, who uses archery in her work, to perform in the catwalk space. ‘She embodies the idea of modern Amazon. It’s very courageous,’ said Chiuri backstage. The runway show began with a bow-and-arrow display in the centre of the catwalk; ‘May the building of a strong mind and a strong body be the greatest work I have ever made,' was one of the emblematic phrases appearing on the set.
For Chiuri, inspiration for the collection started with the concept of the Amazon – women who defied the usual rules and expectations. With that meant freedom: freedom of the body that comes from sportswear, in particular asymmetric cuts, freedom of movement and the freedom of certain fabrications, from knitwear to moiré. 'Fashion is an attitude and clothes help to protect and help us,' said Chiuri.
With this in mind, she assembled and reinterpreted cuts from the archives, starting with the Amazone dress dreamed up by Christian Dior for autumn/winter 1951-1952. Another reference was the 1962 Dior Sport collection, which first introduced skiwear and outerwear to the Dior customer (Jackie Kennedy was reportedly a fan) and more technical fabrics to the Couture house. Inspired by this use of fabrics, Chiuri developed the concept and experimentation further, keen to dress the needs of the modern woman. Cue an asymmetric body suit, reworked in a knitted silk fabric, opened the show. The iconic Bar jacket came in knitted form, with knitted pants. Monochromatic wide-leg track pants – designed for greater movement, greater freedom – were emblazoned with an old Dior logo from 70s, which was stretched and elongated to look like vertical stripes.
Chiuri, who started her career as an accessories designer, wanted to celebrate the importance and ease of the accessory within the outfit - rather than it feel like an add-on. The iconic Dior styles - like Lady Di and Saddle bag - reworked in softer fabrics in a crossbody style, while the shoes meanwhile were a trainer-boot hybrid; in a stretch fabric.
Hollywood’s Anya Taylor-Joy and Natalie Portman joined Brigitte Macron (fresh from her recent Emily in Paris cameo), Rosalía, Yseult and Elizabeth Debicki in Paris for the Christian Dior spring/summer 25 show, which took place in the Musée Rodin. It comes off the back of a super-star year for the brand, who after outfitting Celine Dion and Lady Gaga for the Olympics Opening Ceremony, has recently dressed Kamala Harris and Taylor Swift. Just last month they announced Rhianna as the new face of the brand’s legendary J’adore fragrance. It’s coming up Dior.