Vice President Kamala Harris has more than hit the ground since receiving the endorsement from President Joe Biden - then, with no challengers left in the field of her fellow Democrats, her party's nomination. And the galvanising force of her campaign was on full display at yesterday's kick-off for the four-day Democratic National Convention. Perhaps because of the fact that she could become the first woman in history to become POTUS, Harris stuck to the style formula that has served her well as the Vice President: trouser suits that match her means-business approach to defeating Donald Trump.
Taking to the stage in Chicago's United Center, Harris's elegant yet understated tailoring hinted at her priorities on the campaign trail, which have been universally outspoken on the right to reproductive freedom. Her suit was custom-made by Chloé, one of the only luxury fashion house's to have a female creative director at its helm, Chemena Kamali, whose soft-power designs have been worn by powerhouses like Sienna Miller, Zoe Saldana and Daisy Edgar-Jones. Maybe she just needed a suit. Or maybe she wanted to send a message to the people of America. Because whether she steps out in tailoring and a string of pearls or Converse, what she wears will be scrutinised, fairly or unfairly, like it's never been scrutinised before.
After nearly four years on the international political stage as Vice President, Harris has already carved out several wardrobe signatures that she's likely to keep channelling on the road to November. If we rewind to 8 November 2020, Harris was celebrating her party's victory on stage in Wilmington, Delaware, wearing an outfit that's become the modern woman's battle armour: a trouser suit, the pairing that has become her go-to and will most likely remain so if she's elected to the Oval Office. Of all the images circulating, one in particular captured the euphoria, the optimism and the joy that was radiating from Team Harris. Shared by her niece Meena Harris, the photo showed the newly-elected VP, sandwiched between her great nieces, wearing a pearl white trouser suit from Carolina Herrera. This might have been a moment of unfiltered celebration with family - the caption was 'VICE PRESIDENT AUNTIE 🇺🇸' - but it was also, as you can see from the carefully coordinated outfits with her great nieces, who wore lace dresses and white combat boots, a deliberate choice, just as every outfit she’s worn since has been calibrated to send a particular message.
This should be accepted as fact for most public figures, but somehow, a woman’s appearance – and her investment in said appearance – has always been something of a political hot potato. Whether it’s kitten heels (Theresa May), lipstick (Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez) or a handbag (Margaret Thatcher, whose boxy top-handle became so legendary as to merit a place in the dictionary with the verb ‘to handbag’), the debate about whether or not it’s unfeminist to draw attention to such things, and whether we do the same to a male counterpart in politics, still rages on.
What we can all agree on is that the idea of women having to dress like men - i.e. flatten their femininity - to succeed in the workplace is a completely arcane one. So why the fuss over their fashion choices? Who cares if someone chooses this dress or that dress? And who cares if someone writes a story on the choice of this dress or that dress? (Incidentally, it’s worth noting that male politicians do not escape fashion commentary, good and bad. Jovan Owusu-Nepaul's charity shop Fair Isle, IYKYK, made headlines as he battled for a seat against none other than Nigel Farage. Also, incidentally, Harris doesn't often wear dresses, although she did make an exception for Inauguration Day, wearing a purple frock and matching coat by Christopher John Rogers). Perhaps the middle ground is acknowledging that we shouldn’t pretend a woman’s clothes aren’t political, but we also shouldn’t over-analyse every shoe and suit to the point of distraction.
A cursory glance at her wardrobe tells you that tailoring will surely form a key part of her 'look' as she goes head to head with Trump. Democratic politicians, including the VP, have used the white trouser suit to great effect historically. On the night she was elected to her current office, Harris' white two-piece was a nod to the Suffragettes. As Diet Prada commented at on that historic night: ‘For those who say “dOn’T mIx PoLiTiCs WiTh FaShIoN”...let’s take a moment to appreciate our future Vice President Kamala Harris’s choice to highlight the history of the suffragette movement by wearing white for her historic victory speech last night. As the first woman period, let alone a woman of Black and South Asian descent, to attain this position, she’s already an incredible inspiration to people around the world. Her eloquence and intellect are echoed in her dress sense, and to come out the gate in such a powerful statement is giving us a lot to look forward to.’ Harris undoubtedly intends to continue their legacy and her outfit reflected that sentiment utterly.
Regardless of what happens in November, Harris has already made history, not just as the first female Vice President, but as the first woman of colour to occupy the second most powerful seat in the free world. So as much as her clothes will be a part of her campaign, let's concentrate on what she's promising to deliver instead of what she's wearing.
Natalie Hammond is Grazia’s Senior Fashion News Editor. She loves winter, hates summer and can often be found writing about the weather (and what on earth to wear).