There’s a scene that lives ‘rent free’ in my mind every time I try something new: Mark Corrigan from Peep Show in the park, jogging. For those unfamiliar with the (incredibly funny, perfectly relatable) scene, Mark (played by David Mitchell) agrees to go for a run with Big Suze (Sophie Winkleman) and for a few sweet seconds believes he has, for his whole life until now, just not realised he’s actually an amazing jogger and he’s found his sport.
‘Hey! Wow I’m actually good at this! Maybe I’m a natural! Yeah I’m a jogger! Of course, there had to be a sport for me, I just never realised I’m a natural jogger…I’m unstoppable…’ he narrates, before almost instantaneously realising he couldn’t have been more wrong: ‘Is that a stitch? I’m going to be sick... I’m literally going to die. What an idiotic boob I was back 10 or 11 seconds ago.’
As I sat in the chairlift, travelling in a beautiful silence up the slopes at Courmayeur Mont Blanc, an incredibly picturesque Italian alpine resort, where you can glance over your shoulder at the majesty of Mont Blanc (or Monte Bianco) before racing down the side of the mountain, I wondered, was this about to be the start of a lifelong love, or my Mark Corrigan moment?
When you’re approaching 40, it’s not often you really, properly get to try new things. Often ‘new things’ are actually things you’ve sort of tried before, or just, like, a new type of egg recipe you saw on TikTok. So, when I was incredibly fortunate enough to be invited on a press trip to visit Courmayeur and all it had to offer, including two mornings of private ski lessons, I had to give it a go. Just to make it clear, I had never skied before in my life. I have a vague memory of a kids’ party on a dry slope in Harlow in the early 90s, but I'm pretty sure it involved sitting in something inflatable. I wasn’t 'rusty' then, or a bit nervous and 'in need of a brush up', I was completely my-family-are-not-ski-people (wait, what the hell are these boots and why are they so crushingly painful, I have to wear these for how long?) levels of beginner.
The trip started fantastically, a simple Easyjet flight from Gatwick to Turin was over before it had barely begun (you can fly to Geneva too) and a transfer to Courmayeur dropped us at Le Massifwhere we would stay for three nights. The hotel isn’t your usual skiing fare (I presumed, but was assured by long-term skiiers), this is high-end ski life. Its mix of characteristically alpine interiors with a modern twist made for a luxurious yet cosy feel. I tried to reassure myself, whenever I got nervous about trying skiing, that everything else looked like it would be a dream, and a dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, LM83 (mirroring the décor, a mix of local and luxe), followed by checking into our lovely double room was just the ticket.
The hotel’s breakfast buffet started the day well. Le Massif, which is based in the town at the base of the mountain, from which you take a cable car up to the slopes, overlooks the mountains. The weather was incredible, cold and crisp but bright – I’ve always preferred cold destinations (I honeymooned in Iceland in December) and fully believe that if you can wear a winter hat and a pair of sunglasses when you leave the house, it’s the perfect kind of weather. Had I found my holiday tribe? My Mark Corrigan arc began.
Decked out in new skiing attire, I left the hotel to head to the cable car and promptly slipped on some ice and crashed to the floor.
A word though, if you’re considering first-time skiing in later life, on those clothes. If you’re not sure whether this is going to be a first or a first and last time skiing, borrow, rent and head to Vinted, save yourself money. But also, don’t be intimidated. Definitely take advice from people who’ve skied, but don’t feel you have to follow certain rules either. You might have things you need already in your wardrobe (like thermals). You might not need others (like the latest moon boots). It can feel easy when you’re trying something completely foreign to lose your senses and ignore the fact that you do have had some life experience before Day 1 of the holiday.
For example, I run quite warm naturally but felt like I ‘had’ to layer up beyond recognition, which a few hours later left me feeling panicked, hot and bothered – not what you need while learning a new skill halfway up a mountain. Still, listen to the decades-old brain in your head that knows you well. I’d apply that outside of the suitcase too. When trying something new, it’s crucial to understand you don’t know best in this arena and you’re going to need to listen and learn, that’s the beauty of it. But that doesn’t mean you have to defer in everything – bring your life’s experience to things, don’t ditch it at the door just because it’s day one of class.
Still getting used to the ski boots (yes, they’re supposed to be uncomfortable and will feel alien for sure, but if you are thicker of calf or ankle, I would consider trying some boots before you head for the slopes, or calling ahead to make sure the hire place has some that will be comfortable for you) I met my instructor Nico, and headed (slowly in a weird stumble walk) to the chair lift.
Forget Mark Corrigan, when it comes to skiing for beginners there’s one pop culture moment everyone defers to and that’s Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason. And of course, despite laughing about this exact scene, I did promptly stack it at the top of the chair lift, falling on my face as the lift continued to try to operate over the top of me, and becoming lodged on my back.
But we continue.
After a difficult first few minutes reiterating – as if my Bridget moment hadn’t been enough - that I was as beginner as beginner gets, the ski lesson began on a better footing, which is to say an incredibly slow, steady and slightly panicked footing. You don’t need to hear the ins and outs of my attempts to snow plough, but rest assured, it wasn’t full Mark Corrigan. Thanks to the incredible patience (reserved usually for Saints and nursery workers) of Nico and my companion Kirsten, by the end of my second ski lesson, I made it down a green (I think) slope (like a kids slope but without teddy bear slaloms). Sure poor Nico had to ski backwards in front of me the whole time and lead me down, but from a standing start (with pained calves and wondering what the hell I’d got myself in for) I had to take the small progress and wonder what progress could’ve been made with a week’s lessons.
Here's some things I learned though. If you’re considering trying skiing with no experience, don’t be afraid of how novice you are. Try it out if possible before you head out of the UK, because (as well as it being a chance to understand what level of fitness it might be good to attempt to work towards) I think sometimes just the complete and utter foreignness of a ski holiday is enough to make the first hour an ‘I can't do this!’ moment. By the time I'd got to the start of my lesson, from dressing to cable car to ski hire shop to chair lift, I'd already done about 18 new things and felt more flappy than my usual self.
It can feel like everyone’s been snowploughing since they were three and knows everything – it’s a completely different environment you might never have even considered before. Give yourself some time to acclimatise. Ask lots of questions. Don’t be embarrassed or intimidated if you don’t understand the terminology, relish the novelty of being green. But have confidence to speak up – I’m glad I tried to ski as I approach 40 because if I’d tried in my 20s, I probably wouldn’t have had the complete disregard for embarrassment I have now. I wouldn’t have asked for the breaks or the clarification I needed, asked to go at my own pace. I would've found things more frustrating, or worried I looked stupid. Find, if you can, someone (whether that’s your teacher or friend/family member) who is patient with you. Do not go near the slopes for the first time with someone who makes you feel like you need to do something you don’t want to. ‘Stepping outside of your comfort zone’ is for deciding whether to go to a new yoga class, not for risking if you’re able to head down a mountain at unknown miles an hour.
Was there some Mark in me that wished I’d clipped into the skis and discovered my years of dancing and Pelotoning had lent me thighs that were actually made for skiing and I’d amaze everyone with my prowess? Of course! Especially because the other bits of a ski holiday are so absolutely incredible. Yes, the après (shout out to my new favourite drink the Bombardino, a warm brandy-custardy drink served with a pile of whipped cream on the slopes and, of course, the sbagliatos), but also the other bits too. The incredible food for starters. Courmayeur is becoming known as a foody destination thanks to a host of restaurants and the Mountain Gourmet Ski Experience, an annual weekend where Michelin chefs and their menus descend on the resort.
As you’d expect in Italy, the food is sublime, but also proud of its heritage. Everywhere we ate had local dishes, wines and staff ready to guide us through the menus. On the slopes of Courmayeur, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to resting and having lunch. On day one we ate at La Chaumiere, enjoying local pasta specialities and red wine while half way up the slopes – my companions skied in and out. I walked down the hill, thrilled to have refuelled on such a feast. On day two we sat on the incredible sun-drenched deck of Christiania eating meat and cheese platters and pizzas with local beers. The one thing I can say for skiing is it must be amazing when you’re good at it, because I could’ve happily sat at both restaurants all afternoon, while other diners eagerly jumped back onto the slopes.
In the evenings, the food continues to be in plentiful supply, whatever you desire. On the second night, we travelled by car to Baita Ermitage, a family run, chalet-style restaurant where we ate artichokes to start, masses of cheesy polenta served family-style and chestnuts and pies for dessert before practically rolling back into our beds. The final night was a (I lost count but I think) nine course taster menu (including one that contained three types of bread) at the Bistrot Royal, where up and coming chef Emin Haziri is deservedly making big waves. It’s a must-try if you are lucky enough to end up in Courmayeur.
Away from the skiing, and the food, there’s more to enjoy. An afternoon hike in nearby Val Ferret was an unexpected delight (yes, even after a morning of exertion, the views are worth some more). And the Le Massif spa is a perfect way to wind down and reward some of your muscles – sitting in the outdoor heated pool overlooking the views was a perfect reward.
Finally, before heading home, we hit Skyway Monte Bianco, the highest cable car in Italy. It offers the most amazing views of Monte Bianco and the surrounding mountains, as well as captivating glimpses of the experienced mountaineers venturing off to climb the final metres to the summit, or advanced skiiers, who travel down from the 3,466 metre top station. It’s an incredible experience, a dream Instagram photoshoot location and – of course as you’d expect – another wonderful place to eat (we enjoyed the lunchtime buffet).
Flying home I was sad to leave Courmayeur and everything it had to offer - maybe the Italian alpine life is for me, if not necessarily the ski-life. And while I'm not sure I'll ever be that person whizzing down the slopes looking like freedom itself (and it hurts to know that, but I'm proud I tried to find out for sure), I know I'd happily come back to Courmayeur.
Double Deluxe Rooms at Le Massif start from 450 euros per night for two people, during the winter months. For more information visit https://www.lemassifcourmayeur.com/en/. For more information on Courmayeur Mont Blanc visit::a [www.courmayeurmontblanc.it/en]{href='http://www.courmayeurmontblanc.it/en' target='_blank' rel='noreferrer noopener'}, call +39 0165 841612 or email info@courmayeurblanc.it.