Is it ever too soon to think about the big spring/summer 2016 switcharoo? We don’t know why you’d even question it: the latest trends from the recent round of runway shows have us as psyched as we were, well, six months ago when the previous season presented itself.
S/S’16 is shaping up to be one heck of a ride and the show as spectacle was key. We witnessed wash-away dresses at Hussein Chalayan, big bands and Ziegfield follies at Marc Jacobs, zen-like Marina Abramovic art installations at Givenchy – this time in New York, dancing models at Opening Ceremony, transgender casting all over the shop, women carrying women as rucksacks at Rick Owens… there was no shortage of moments.
And no shortage of wildly differently looks either. Designers offered showgirls and good girls, bad girls and tomboys. There were girls who want to flash their undies and girls who want to keep everything under-wraps. Chicks who rock and chicks who want to go the library. Babes who bask in the colours of high summer and those who will only be happy when it rains. Surfers, city slickers, eco warriors, uptown and upscale… if you can’t locate your spiritual sartorial home within the collections, we’ll eat our (new) black tailored blazers.
After a (miniscule) breather following the FROW action, we’ve pored over the pics again to bring you the trends that will fill the slots as next season’s headline acts…
PEEKABOO BOUDOIR
Nightwear as daywear, underwear as outerwear, these designers elevated luxury undies to proper garms. Most often worn with black tailoring for grounding.
LOGO A-GO-GO
Pledge your allegiance in the most obvious, instagrammable way poss: with a recognisable - or new - logo. Lanvin's graffitied up party frocks, Chanel joined a particularly haute mile high club with CC Airways, Vuitton used the heritage motifs for moto jackets, whilst J.W. Anderson introduced a fresh take on Loewe's labelling.
MISMATCHY MAVENS
The granny-takes-a-trip vibes from A/W'15 have segued into spring. Whatever you do, don't ever attempt to match anything. Ever. Clash to your heart's content. Layer with wild abandon. Get creative.
BACK OF THE NET
From scultped summer dresses to full on fishnet vests there's plenty of updated knitwear action on the runways of S/S'15. We predict the pleated versions from Celine will fly.
SHOULDER SMOULDER
Unequivocally the sexiest slice of skin to show for S/S'16, the shoulder is fashion's new erogneous zonus maximus. Especially when accompanied by a halter-strap. And really, who has fat shoulders? No-one. We're thrilled.
BACK TO BLACK (TAILORING)
Finally - a 1990s trend that doesn't feel like (try)hard work. Black tailoring in all it's serious glory was a staple, if unexpected, part of the spring line-up for many of the industry's most influential designers. A great way to offset the lingerie trend, as we mentioned earlier, but just as applicable to any other trend going, too.
SUNSET BOULEVARD
Did the previous black tailoring trend FREAK YOU OUT? Well calm down. There is lightness and brightness to the new season collections and it most comes in the form of these happy sunset tones or citrus brights, if you will. Orange is looking like the juiciest option for fashion forward ladies.
DOT. DOT. LINE -
Florals? What ruddy florals? The pretty posies have been usurped for S/S'16 thanks to this graphic brigade of lines, checks and spots. They break new ground in fresh colourways and blown proportions or unusual renderings - see Thomas Tait's porthole peekaboo embroidery for starters.
TROPHY JACKETS
Leather jackets are back - but definitely not as you know them. In bright hues, patchworked suede or intricately appliqued and tasselled (who could resist swishing around in that Marc Jacobs look attached?) your transseasonal wardrobe will be forever grateful for the investment.
RAD RUFFLES
Some were big. Some were small. Some were structured. Some were free to be breezy. Some were head to toe. Some were but a fluttering trim. Whatever the scale or intentions of these S/S'16 frills they were, quite simply, EVERYWHERE.