In the past Marc Jacobs has spoken of creating clothes for the ‘showgirl in every one of us’ but tonight’s one-time-only performance of spring/summer 2016 at the Ziegfeld Theatre in New York City was a wardrobe made not for the hopeful chorus belle but the main act and the main act only.
An enraptured fashion audience took to their plush, cinema seats armed with a bucketful of Marc Jacobs-branded popcorn, a free t-shirt and handy playbill for the evening’s event. Just what would this staged spectacular involve?
First the giant screen beamed a live stream of Marc’s models taking to a red carpet outside the venue. In-the-know crowds outside went snap-happy, whilst onlookers could’ve easily mistaken the set-up for a 1940s Hollywood film premiere. The cameras followed these bulb-popping beauties into the iconic building until – lights and music maestro! – the fashion show entered the main auditorium and a big band kicked into action, playing a storming rendition of the Beastie Boys’ ‘Sabotage’.
Binx Walton to Bella and Gigi Hadid, Erin O’Connor to a surprise appearance from Beth Ditto, each look – expertly styled by none other than Katie Grand – was as individual as the girl in question. There was a lot to take in: more All American razzamatazz and literal star-spangled glitz than a lost weekend in Vegas with a troupe of circus dancers and Marlene Dietrich as your host.
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Through every swish of that tasselled stars-and-stripes leather jacket (the kind that instantly tells stories of decadent daredevils), every stomp of a glam-rock cowboy boot (a retail smash in the making), glimmer of an illustrated embellishment (these vibrant 3D sketches has something of the Schiaparelli madness about them), sweep of a sequinned gown and swoosh of a feather stole, the fun that Marc Jacobs has had creating this collection was palpable.
The astounding effect was glamour in it’s most unadulterated old-school form, but Marc’s mix and match approach (and a clever insertion of simpler pieces for the quieter shopper, like the baggy jeans or a gold-buttoned blazer) means it’s new season shine will dazzle – not frazzle - the modern dresser. Three cheers for the leading man.
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