Wishing we could raid certain celebrity wardrobes is something we can often fantasise about, but imagine actually doing so. Enter: Jackariaeh Francis. The stylist, writer and founder of a luxury resale company, Parisian Sweet, has become well-accustomed to acquiring sold-out, rare and iconic designer pieces, often from A-listers. As the previous owner of bricks-and-mortar store, the pre-loved fashion mogul now sells the collection of – mainly Chanel and Hermès – bags solely through Instagram. Living between Paris and London, Jackariaeh has spent the last decade sourcing some of the most sought after vintage pieces for his flurry of loyal fans. And his latest find? Carrie Bradshaw's newspaper-print Dior dress from season three of Sex and the City.
The dress in question was a masterpiece from John Galliano's Dior autumn/winter 2000 collection, and it's the item Jackariaeh had searched high and low for. 'I was lucky enough to track down the infamous paper dress, as seen on Carrie Bradshaw, which made headlines after it sold for €15,000 at [a] Bonhams auction. Galliano was believed to have taken inspiration for the Dior dress from an original design created by Elsa Schiaparelli, which was released back in 1935. So it's a real piece of history.' Jackariaeh is also the proud owner of the matching 1999 Dior newspaper-print saddle bag. How much could these sell for now? The dress is currently on resale sites for £207,000 and the printed saddle bag has been known to fetch up to £20,000!
This isn't the only celebrity-owned item, either, as Jackariaeh has a penchant for pieces with a story. 'A couple of years ago, I purchased a fabulous Dior briefcase which had belonged to one of the great visionaries, the sleek ponytail himself, Karl Lagerfeld. It was gifted to him by Hedi Slimane and it even has his original Karlito emoji sticker stuck on the top. I also own a tea-stained cardigan which once belonged to Vivienne Westwood and when it comes to bags, I own Victoria Beckham's navy Loewe bag she wore in 2009 and I even have her Dolce & Gabbana leopard-print corset top. One of my most favourite pieces is a Hermès Kelly from 1969 that originally belonged to the iconic American Vogue editor-in-chief, Diana Vreeland.'
Making exclusive vintage pieces easily accessible to anyone through the @parisian_sweet Instagram page, we want to know how best to go about purchasing a second-hand designer bag. Jackariaeh's top tip is to make sure you're buying from a reputable source. 'If you’re looking to invest in a vintage handbag, if the price seems too good to be true, back away. Don’t be lured in by an appetising price point.'
If you go to a trusted seller, you can rest-assured that you'll be buying a genuine design bag. 'To the trained eye, it’s a lot easier to spot a vintage counterfeit handbag than it is a contemporary version. Why? Because the advanced technology available to those producing replicas in today's market are so advanced that the bags are sometimes on par, or if not better, than the quality of those genuine pieces which are purchased in the official stores today. For me, it's easier to tell a vintage counterfeit, vintage remains unmatched as the superior quality of a bygone era shines through.'
While experts may be able to pick out the legit designer bags from the fakes using certain details, there are some tricks you can learn from the pros when looking for your own vintage designer bag. For Chanel, it can often come down to the detailing on the hardware. 'From experience, the majority of true vintage Chanel classics will have assay stamps on the plating of the 24ct gold turn-locks and hardware. Each bag will have its very own code which dates it to the approximate year it was produced, a simple Google of the serial authentication code chart and you can easily date your bag at home. However, these can also be copied, so I cannot stress enough that you buy from trustworthy dealers who specialise in vintage.'
If you invest in a key style, the value will increase over time. 'I’ve thoroughly enjoyed carefully investing in pieces over time, watching them increase in value and when the time is right, flipping it for a profit to perhaps then invest in that next drool-worthy piece.' But there are certain factors which can decrease the value, including restoration. So if you have a bag that needs a little bit of love or you're thinking of buying an already restored bag, Jackariaeh says, 'while restoration is very important if your beloved handbag is looking a little tired, I always suggest firstly heading back to the original fashion house where it was purchased. Some offer fantastic repair, replacement and restoration services by trained specialists who have originally handled your luxury goods.'
Something well worth knowing, though, is how already restored pieces may not be worth buying. 'Designer stores won't touch any pieces that have been restored by a third party, so it’s very important if you’re going to buy used or pre-loved handbags you do so in untouched or unpainted condition. However, a very light corner clean restoration isn’t going to hurt the value of your piece too much. The most important thing is you enjoy and wear your pieces, it’s not all about its monetary value.'
Not only is pre-loved fashion is a more sustainable way to shop, but it'll also set you apart from the crowd. 'There is something to be said too about wearing vintage, it gives you that little edge above the rest, whilst doing so you are also enjoying a sustainable future in fashion, which we all should really try to follow now. The runways are littered with endless collections of mass-produced tat that really isn't very exciting at all. Vintage is about the beauty of having something unique and the special history behind [it].'