Back in September of last year, I noticed something happening. It was happening at London Fashion Week, as well as in my own wardrobe. It was something to which I referred as BCE: Big Collar Energy, and it injected new life into my wardrobe. Today, then, I feel vindicated. And it's thanks to Chanel's Spring 2020 Couture show.
Among the Chanel signatures – boxy jackets, tweed suits and irresistibly pretty evening dresses – was a parade of exaggerated collars that finally cemented the fact that they're one of the biggest trends of the year.
Crisp white, frilly collars were worn over open black tweed jackets, some were themselves realised in tweed and embroidered on top and some finished in a point over high-neck dresses. Adut Akech even wore a full, curved collar that explicitly evoked the inspiration behind the collection: nuns.
It's certainly true that fashion has become preoccupied by a contemporary form of modesty. Hemlines are lower, sleeves longer and necklines higher. These collars may well be a by-product of such preoccupation, designed to layer underneath jumpers, cardigans and jackets, lending even the most pared-back of outfits a focal point.
Over on Instagram, it's Ganni's blousethat has seemingly attracted the most praise. Snapped by a wealth of well-known faces, the brand has just released a striped version for the new season, while Zara is full of what are surely all homages to the same top.
Miu Miu, meanwhile, has a lace-trimmed cotton style and London-based designer Renli Su has created a silk and linen-blend blouse with oversized collar and cuffs to match. If you really want to display your fashion nous? Wear yours with black, school girl shoes à la Chanel's cast.