She might be one of fashion’s most influential women, with half of Hollywood on speed dial, but even Donatella Versace can’t control the weather. Yet.
In anticipation of an unseasonable storm set to hit Los Angeles, Team Versace were forced to move their much-hyped show forward by 24 hours. But if the shifting schedule had prompted a frenzy of activity behind the scenes, it didn’t show on the catwalk. Gigi Hadid, Naomi Campbell, EmRata and Kendall Jenner were just a few of the big-name models who showcased a Versace AW23 show inspired by the energy of the City of Angels. ‘The energy, glamour, and power of Hollywood - these are the reference points for this collection,’ said Donatella. ‘For me, Los Angeles is a natural home for us because we share the DNA of energy, power, creativity, and imagination.’
If the collection hit all the notes Versace devotees love about Donatella’s designs - think sharp tailoring, sexy dresses and a lot of black - the setting was anything but business as usual. A custom-built catwalk on the rooftop of LA’s Pacific Design District marked the first time in years the house has put on a show outside of Milan. But, planting themselves in the heart of Hollywood two days before the Oscars, was a savvy move - and one that feels true to Versace’s roots.
Anna Wintour once said that Gianni Versace created the idea of fashion as entertainment. His famous 1991 show when Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell and Carla Bruni strode out to the soundtrack of George Michael’s Freedom!, which invented the idea of supermodels, still stands as one of fashion’s most iconic moments. And since his sister Donatella took the helm at Versace after Gianni’s death, it’s a legacy she’s continued dressing everyone from pop princesses (three wedding dresses for Britney Spears) to real royalty (Princess Diana made Versace her post-divorce uniform).
So perhaps it shouldn’t have been a surprise that so many of Hollywood’s stars came out to support Donatella’s LA debut. OG icons Elton John, Cher and Pamela Anderson mixed with Hollywood’s new wave of talent: think Simone Ashley, Dua Lipa and Miley Cyrus, who was spotted leaving with two men carrying the train of her Versace dress. Current Versace face Lily James wore a classic LBD from the brand, and Paris Hilton, who closed Versace's show in Milan last season, was spotted dancing to the show tunes. Meanwhile the evening made for a mother-daughter date night for Demi Moore and daughter Rumer Willis, who offered a masterclass in modern pregnancy dressing with a jacket over her bodycon dress.
'I’m a woman so I understand women and their insecurities,' was Donatella’s take before the show on why everyone across the ages gravitates to her clothes. 'I know how a woman feels comfortable, feels sexy, feels beautiful.' It’s certainly true that this collection was centered around the body - specifically making the body look hot.
It took as its inspiration a 1995 Versace campaign starring Madonna shot by Stephen Miesel, featuring a lot of tailoring. 'We’ve had too much streetwear, which has its place, but I feel this is the moment to try something different,' she explained of the oversized jackets and structured suiting she presented in the AW collection. 'If you have big shoulders, your waist looks smaller,' she added with a laugh. 'Oh and so much black because it looks sharp.'
But, given the clientele watching, including superstar stylist Law Roach who recently put Zendaya in vintage Versace, it made sense there were also plenty of gowns on display for anyone shopping for a last minute Oscar dress. Starchy fabrics helped created sculptured 80s-inspired dresses with bows, bustles and trains that looked like they’d been swept up in the wind, Marilyn Monroe style.
For the more daring there was the sheer-paneled gown Gigi wore in the finale of the show. 'It’s better to wonder than to see immediately,' Donatella explained of her 2023 interpretation of the naked dress. As for the one she wants to see on the Oscar red carpet? A sheer beaded dress that sounded like a chandelier whilst sashaying down the catwalk.
If you’re not in the business for gowns though, Donatella also presented denim galore, from bombers to wide-legged true blue jeans. 'Because we all wear jeans,' she said simply. (Though, tip from the top, DV styles hers with a jacket to smarten them up).
And one final styling trick that’ll make all Brits happy? Hosiery. 'Everything has sheer black stockings. Because I like tights.' So there you have it: fashion’s most divisive trend just got the Donatella seal of approval.
