Not so long ago, an It buy meant only one thing: a bag. It could be mini or mighty, pared-back or bedecked in hardware – so long as it came with a prohibitive price tag and daunting wait list, the bag was deemed the one accessory that could elevate your look into a ‘thing.’ All other accessories were just postscript.
Until now. According to new data gathered and analysed by website Business of Fashion and search platform Lyst, only one bag (Chloé's seen-on-everyone Nile) made the 10 top-selling pieces of S/S'17. The rest of the chart was dominated by slides, sneakers and that Gucci belt you've likely seen everywhere.
Earrings, £210, Versace
Afterthought accessories are enjoying their moment in the limelight, with socks, belts, scarves and even phone cases elevated to It status. 'Vetements socks quite literally sell out within minutes,' says Browns' womenswear accessories buyer Hollie Harding. 'We have noticed strong sales from Saint Laurent, Valentino and Gucci for their logo belts,' echoes Matchesfashion.com's buying director Natalie Kingham.
Belt, £240, Moschino
But why now? You can thank the youth vote. Propelled by the might of Millennial and even Gen-Z consumers (Business of Fashion notes that under-35s are projected to account for 45 percent of total luxury spend by 2025), the new breed of accessory is unapologetically bold and highly Instagrammable.
Whereas once designer socks or belts were defined only by a discreet logo, now they're an unmistakable distillation of the house's entire vibe.
Trainers, £650, Chanel
Price is, of course, crucial. With the majority of these items coming in at under £500 (and many of them sub-£350), they also fall into a much more attainable price bracket. Expensive, of course, but reasonable compared to a £1,500 bag, or when you think of them as your single seasonal update. What could invigorate the timeless jeans-and-sweater uniform like, say, a pair of Givenchy slides? '[Accessories] give our customers a little hit of Vetements / Miu Miu / Balenciaga at an (almost) sweet price point,' says Harding. 'It's a great way for designers to reach a wider customer base.' In other words? A win-win.
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