It’s all about new voices, enduring legacies and part one of the great creative director switch up. As the fashion world converges on Milan Fashion Week, Italy’s fashion capital arrives at a historic inflection point, embracing both a tribute its godfather, Giorgio Armani, while looking to its future with four major new creative director appointments.
First, the new guard and the creative reshuffling across Milan’s fashion houses - even if some won’t be unveiling their debut collections until February 2026. Perhaps most anticipated is Gucci’s new artistic director, Demna. The Georgian designer, who revolutionised Balenciaga over his decade long tenure, will no doubt bring his subversive approach to Gucci – this season, in a small exclusive presentation early in the week - what are his intentions. The Gucci brand has struggled to find its footing since the departure of Alessandro Michele (now installed at Valentino) and the potential departure of Gucci CEO Stephano Cantino who is expected to leave after less than one year in the role. Francesca Bellettini, one of the few women CEOs in luxury fashion is expected to take his place. Could Bellettini and Demna make the same kind of Gucci magic that Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole created in the mid-noughties?
Excitement mounts also for Louise Trotter’s new Bottega Veneta. The British designer, previously at Carven, Lacoste and Joseph, will bring her meticulous approach to craft, her modernism and charisma to a brand that has never seen a female designer at its creative helm. Does her background at contemporary luxury brands signal a potential shift towards more accessible luxury at Bottega? Whatever, it will be fascinating to see the brand through the female lens for a change.
Following the departure of Luke and Lucie Meier at Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti has been given creative control. Bellotti hails from a critically acclaimed tenure at Bally, which he turned around with just the kind of lust-have quality that Jil Sander could now do with. Will he be able to give the same magic to Jil Sander, once the must-have brand of the 1990s, or will he go one leap further and flip the label with something totally unexpected?
Also new in, Dario Vitale at Versace. Now that Donatella has handed over the design reins to Vitale earlier this year, it will be interesting to see what the man who is credited with Miu Miu’s renaissance (as design and image director) will do with the Versace archives. What to expect? More rawness less raunch? Industry watchers are particularly intrigued by this appointment given Prada’s acquisition of Versace in April this year.
And the best of the rest? Where MaxMara speaks to the bedrock of Milanese style and superior Italian manufacturing, Prada is traditionally the brand that sets the pace in Milan. Miuccia Prada, together with her co-designer Raf Simons (in other words, fashion’s ultimate double act) infuse politics, culture and art into clothes in a way that gives Prada its leading (and cutting) edge. The cult of Prada is real; it’s the fashion aficionados’ choice for a reason, or three: reimagining the Prada show space every season to create a sensationally unexpected environment; yards of celebrities plus desirable and always subversive clothes.
Finally, Mr Armani’s passing will cast a long shadow over Milan Fashion Week. While the Emporio show will be held on Thursday at the usual Armani Teatro, the Giorgio Armani collection will be shown in the courtyard of the Pinacoteca di Brera, on Sunday evening and will close the week. Milan’s museum of masterpieces, housing Caravaggios and Tintorettos, is the perfect backdrop to celebrate Mr Armani, Milan’s fashion maestro.
Now that Milan Fashion Week’s spring/summer '26 season has officially started, follow team Grazia’s show highlights as they happen.
Alberta Ferretti
A year ago this week, Alberta Ferretti stepped down from the brand she founded in 1981. But that doesn’t mean she’s any less invested in its future. Just minutes before her successor Lorenzo Serafini’s SS26 show, Mrs Ferretti was spotted peering out of the top floor window of the label’s headquarters at the crowds gathering outside. One imagines she’d be pleased with what she saw on the runway, too.
Serafini has stayed true to the romance and femininity that’s always been at the heart of the brand. Ruffled, Grecian, kaftans and slips… there were plenty of easy-to-wear gowns the Ferretti customer can throw on for a gala dinner or beachside cocktails. But Serafini is also offering a sharpness amongst the ethereal. His tailoring stood out; a slouchy white suit, as well as a single-breasted camel jacket cut with gold leather. ‘Chic, timeless and elegant,’ front row guest Olivia Palermo said when asked to describe the brand. Tick, tick, tick. Hattie Brett
Rebecca Lowthorpe worked as fashion director for Grazia from 2016 to 2019; she is currently Grazia’s acting assistant editor, overseeing fashion and beauty content.
Main Image Credit: Getty Images