And that’s a wrap! So that’s it: the SS21 season is done. A mix of IRL, virtual and hybrid shows, this really was a season unlike any we’ve seen before.
The finale, as usual, came from Louis Vuitton – who closed Paris Fashion Week. Except this time many of the editors who usually attend (and dash to the Eurostar straight after) were tuning in from their study/kitchen table/sofa. The SS21 collection - 'energetic, vigorous, daring' according to creative director Nicolas Ghesquière - spoke to this mood of uncertainty.
‘Stepping into a territory that is still stylistically vague. A sensitive zone that erases gender and promises exponential creative possibilities. What does an in-between garment look like?,’ asked the accompanying show notes. ‘Finding expression in a landscape that is tenuous and vast, but also neutral: giving it colour, forging its character, inciting radicality, giving it personality’. The show was held at La Samaritaine, a department store currently being renovated.
The notes continued: ‘This is but the beginning of a reflection that is open, stimulating and fundamentally conscious...’ Indeed, we are living in that ellipsis right now. Everything is up in the air, we’re just waiting to see where it might fall. But what is certain is that great clothes and creative fashion will continue prevail. Here are ten style lessons to take away from SS21 now.
1) Wear what you want, how you want
The rules do not apply. If you want to shop from the menswear department, then go for it. 'We’re going beyond the basic idea that a woman gains power by co-opting the masculine wardrobe,' says Ghesquière. 'What space is there for a category of clothing between feminine and masculine? It’s a growing space and its contours are ever more permeable. We’re defining a type of clothing that lives in a non-binary zone. It’s fascinating to consider. What is a non-binary garment? Inevitably, it’s the designer’s role to offer a point of view'.
2) Say something
If you’ve felt compelled to show your allegiance to a cause this year, then keep on going. The show opened with a ‘Vote’ T-shirt, a galvanizing statement of intent for now. Something interesting for you to muse over as well, Ghesquière's assertion that 'being neutral can be radical. There’s nothing bland about it: neutrality can be powerful, extreme and expressive'.
3) Belt up
The way to wear your belt now? Extra long and folded over. A simple but effective styling update. Side note: the belt was also big news at Chanel.
4) Play with proportions
Mini + maxi = your new wardrobe power couple. Thigh grazing dresses were worn with fluid, extra-long coats. The perfect proportion play.
5) Dress down your dazzle
When it comes to our wardrobes, if we’ve learned one thing this year it’s this: there is no point saving anything for ‘best’. Ghesquiere reworked boxy, masculine tailoring in shimmering silver sequins, while a mini dress with saucer-sized paillettes was teamed with a utilitarian parka.
6) Clash your prints
Classic black and white stripes are always a good idea – and you probably already own something featuring them. The way to wear next is to contrast with a lairy, technicolour pattern. More is more.
7) Take your shoes ‘ugly’
Loving clogs? Can’t get enough of Crocs? Refuse to step out of your Birkenstocks? Then good news, the ‘ugly’ shoe trend continues with Vuitton’s bulbous, puffy duvet boots.
8) Say ‘yes’ to a sweater vest
And more good news: if you’ve invested in a sweater vest already, they’re also here for the long haul. Yet to invest? Buy one several sizes up (or from the menswear department. See: point #1).
9) Make it pop!
Here’s an easy, peasy update for you: enliven muted and monochrome looks by adding a single colourful accessory. Bam!
10) Revive the art of power dressing
This might have been the year of the sweatpants, but now is the time to reestablish a bit of sartorial swagger. Tailoring and strong, sculptural shoulder pads are sure to bring a jolt of much-missed power to our wardrobes once again. Go big or go home (and you wouldn’t want to do that again would you?).