If summer belonged to the tennis skirt, then autumn looks set to embrace its moodier cousin: the kilt. At the first full day of London Fashion Week, the royal's favourite skirt was spotted time and time again, but with cool-girl alterations that have become the hallmark of one designer: Chopova Lowena.
These kilts have serious attitude - with a thick leather belt, an abundance of silver carabiner clips and exquisite pleated fil coupé - and have become a beloved signature of the brand's. And since it had the last slot on the schedule - and as yesterday marked the brand's debut catwalk show - it made sense that editors and influencers took their skirts for a spin in homage. Some wore them with a white button-down, while others styled shorter versions over baggy jeans. Either way, the kilt definitely has legs this winter, especially if it's by Chopova Lowena.
For SS23, the brand's designers, Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons, took inspiration from Bulgaria's Rose Valley - and the village of Kazanlak, where young women dress up to select what's known as a 'Rose Queen'. As ever, the interplay between heritage - Chopova was born in Sofia - and modernity, the pair riffed on lacrosse pinnies, transforming them with jewel-toned tinsel, produced a collection that felt steeped in craftsmanship, while still being mischievous. And the skirts, of course, were the spectacularly cool centrepiece.
As well as starting a special savings account so you can own a Chopova Lowena, it's worth hunting through the racks of charity shops and vintage emporiums for kilts that don't look too square.