Anna Wintour Responds To The Backlash Against Vogue’s Kamala Harris Cover

Kamala Harris represents so many firsts for America. As the Vice President-elect, she's not just thefirst woman to occupy the role – she's also the first Black and Asian American to ever take on the job. For many in the country, Harris also represents hope for the futureafter a particularly gruelling four years, filled with political turmoil and social unrest. For all of these reasons – and more – US Vogue decided that Harris would grace the cover of its February issue. But the results have produced much criticism.

Now, Anna Wintour, Us Vogue's editor-in-chief, has responded to the backlash in an interview withSway, a New York Times podcast. While the main interview was recorded before the cover was leaked, Wintour said in a subsequent statement: 'Obviously we have heard and understood the reaction to the print cover and I just want to reiterate that it was absolutely not our intention to, in any way, diminish the importance of the vice president-elect’s incredible victory. We want nothing but to celebrate Vice President-elect Harris’s amazing victory and the important moment this is in America’s history, and particularly for women of colour, all over the world.'

Kara Swisher, Sway's host, said: '[Wintour] also said, there was no formal agreement about what the choice of the cover would be. And when the two images arrived at Vogue, all of us felt very, very strongly that the less formal portrait of the Vice President-elect really reflected the moment that we were living in, which we are in the midst- as we still are — of the most appalling pandemic that is taking lives by the minute. And we felt to reflect this tragic moment in global history, a much less formal picture, something that was very, very accessible, and approachable, and real, really reflected the hallmark of the Biden-Harris campaign and everything that they are trying to — and, I’m sure, will achieve.'

The publication unveiled the new cover on Instagram on Sunday, January 10, declaring 'Making history was the first step. Now @kamalaharris has an even more monumental task: to help heal a fractured America—and lead it out of crisis.' This first image shows Harris wearing clothes she chose for herself: a dark blazer from Donald Deal, black trousers and Converse trainers, which she wore frequently on the campaign trail. She stands in front of a pink and green backdrop, colours specifically chosen to represent her Alpha Kappa Alpha sorority at Howard University – the first historically African American sorority in America.

Initial criticism which arose on social media ranged from suggesting the photograph looked 'amateurish' to even accusing Vogue of 'whitewashing' Harris. Wajahat Ali, a New York Times contributor, wrote on Twitter: 'What a mess up. Anna Wintour must really not have Black friends and colleagues... People, I'll shoot shots of VP Kamala Harris for free using my Samsung and I'm 100% confident it'll turn out better than this Vogue cover. We can shoot it in my yard using natural sunlight and it'll still be better.'

Vogue was quick to release a second, digital-only cover that showed Harris in a blue Michael Kors suit, arms crossed and standing much closer to the camera. It looks, as many others have pointed out, more stately – more professional.. Writing for The Washington Post,Robin Givhan said: 'It’s very much the political portrait. The backdrop is a medley of fabrics in shades of yellow from butter to saffron and quietly suggests optimism. Harris looks both traditionally authoritative and singularly pretty.'

This second iteration of the cover is clearly preferred – just one look at the comments on Instagram can tell you that. And perhaps it only heightened the negative reaction to the first. Both were shot by Tyler Mitchell, who became the first ever Black photographer to shoot a Vogue cover in 2018 when he was personally selected to capture Beyoncé's portrait. As Givhan says of the print cover, 'There’s nothing inherently wrong with this picture. And in some ways, it’s an audacious way of depicting this new political era and its break with the past. The problem is that it’s on the cover. The picture isn’t juxtaposed with one of constituents or staff or family. She’s a woman alone in sneakers sharing space with the Vogue brand.'

On Twitter, journalist Yashar Ali stated that a source 'familiar with the publication plans' divulged that while Harris and her team approved the image of her in the blue suit, they were blindsided by the official print cover. Wintour has obviously refuted this but if it were true, that's reason enough to feel aggrieved by Vogue's choice, particularly in relation to a Black woman's power – or lack thereof – to control her own image and decide how she is to be perceived. If even the Vice President-elect is unable to wield such power, what does that say for other women from marginalised backgrounds?

In response to criticism of the actual image, it feels more than uncomfortable to accuse a Black photographer – and one who has made fashion history with his previous work – of 'whitewashing' or even 'bad lighting'. In an industry still desperately lacking when it comes to diversity, it would seem more appropriate to celebrate the fact that Vogue chose to work with Mitchell again. It's also pertinent to note that photographers rarely have control over which images are selected – the choice of a cover image was obviously made by Wintour and other senior members of Vogue staff.

Perhaps, ultimately, the world's vocal disappointment lies simply in the feeling of being underwhelmed. As Givhan so articulately writes: 'In using the more informal image for the print edition of the magazine, Vogue robbed Harris of her roses. Despite its freighted history of racial insensitivity and recent accusations of disrespect and promises to be more inclusive, Vogue as an institution hasn’t fully grasped the role that humility plays in finding the path forward. A bit of awe would have served the magazine well in its cover decisions. Nothing about the cover said, “Wow.” And sometimes, that’s all Black women want, an admiring and celebratory “wow” over what they have accomplished.'

Women in politics have a tough time when it comes to fashion. Try too hard and you'll be criticised for being out-of-touch and insensitive (remember Theresa May in those £995 leather trousers?) Look too casual and risk disappointing those who have placed their own hopes and ambition onto you. When Vogue released its new cover, Google searches for Michelle Obama's past covers spiked. But why are we looking to compare these two women? Certainly, both represent historic progress that carries more emotional weight now than perhaps ever before. But Obama was America's First Lady – a different role entirely.

Whatever one's opinion on Harris' Vogue debut, nobody can take away from the fact that the American public chose her as their new Vice President. While it's astonishing that, in 2021, it's still rare for a woman – and a Black, Asian American woman at that – to occupy such a role, the good news is that she now does. Kamala Harris is America's Vice President-elect. And she's got work to do.