He brought the end of January to a close with an inimitable bang thanks to his couture show in Paris but, at the same time, Jean Paul Gaultier announced that the spectacle would be his swansong. 'This show celebrating 50 years of my career will also be my last,' he wrote on Twitter. 'But rest assured Haute Couture will continue with a new concept.' The fashion world speculated wildly as to what that might mean but, thankfully, we have no wait no longer. This morning it was announced that the new era of JPG Couture will involve collaboration with a different designer every season. The first will be Chitose Abe, creative director of Sacai.
Abe will design the AW20 Couture collection, before Gaultier then invites a different designer to design the next season. Speaking toWWD, Gaultier said 'I am pleased that this concept [which came to Gaultier in the ’90s] will become reality now with Chitose Abe of Sacai as the first guest designer. I admire her work, we have many things in common creatively and a similar vision of fashion. I am glad to give her complete freedom.'
![Jean Paul Gaultier at his most recent couture show](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e5f/b221/232f/f01e/974b/ba14/JPG.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Abe will certainly bring a fresh perspective to the storied house of Gaultier. And if her previous collaborations are anything to go by – Sacai x Nike, for example – there is certain to be a whole lot of hype around this collection.
'I have a long-held admiration for Jean Paul’s unique vision of subversive femininity and his originality, both of which I’ve strived towards in my work since the beginning,' Abe said.
With this new approach to design, along with the return of Balenciaga's famous couture house, the AW20 couture schedule is shaping up to be very interesting indeed.
SEE: Everything That Happened At Paris Fashion Week
SEE: Everything Happening At Paris Fashion Week
![Kenneth Ize makes a starry debut](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e55/5400/a5ac/a9d6/a590/d4cd/GettyImages-1208537944.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Kenneth Ize makes a starry debut
Austrian-Nigerian designer Kenneth Ize pulled in the big guns for his Paris Fashion Week debut. Imaan Hamman, Naomi Campbell and Adwoa Aboah all flew in to show their support - and the clothes themselves had bags of feel-good flavour in their colour and comfort-factor.
![Dior brings back the waistcoat](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e55/542d/f0f7/7bd0/c4e5/f1b3/GettyImages-1208600056.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Dior brings back the waistcoat
You might not have considered the waistcoat as a sensible addition to your wardrobe, well, ever, but Maria Grazia Chiuri might change your mind this autumn. She sent several down today's catwalk, which was hung with giant letters spelling 'CONSENT', including this trench design with a fringed hem and slits for the arms to breathe.
![Saint Laurent is big on Eighties flavour](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e56/6a4b/e853/46ae/21de/43bc/GettyImages-1208668271.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Saint Laurent is big on Eighties flavour
Saint Laurent went big on spectacle, spotlighting models as they stomped down the catwalk in jewel-toned latex trousers. If the wet-look is filed under 'too much' in your mind, the return of colour-blocking - think scarlet, violet and chartreuse for starters - is surely a tantalising option.
![Dries Van Noten's flora and fauna](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e57/7a6a/f0f7/7b96/6ae5/fc17/AW20C-DVNoten-026.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Dries Van Noten's flora and fauna
Dries Van Noten was a typically beautiful exploration of print and its power. One of our favourites was this leaf-splashed mac paired with snakeskin boots, a look that brought the rainforest canopy to the city of lights.
![Lanvin goes oh-so-ladylike](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e57/7a9b/840b/9bbf/a6b8/0ccb/GettyImages-1208820829.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Lanvin goes oh-so-ladylike
Lanvin was a 2020 take on the classic bourgeois wardrobe, with elbow-length gloves, richly-coloured coats, top-handle bags, elegantly coiffed hair and, naturally, ladylike pumps.
![Maison Margiela is, well, weather-appropriate](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e57/7abe/a5ac/a901/9690/dfad/GettyImages-1208803203.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Maison Margiela is, well, weather-appropriate
You can always count on Maison Margiela for delivering look-twice clothes and styling, but this all-black ensemble, comprised of bucket hat, slick raincoat and sensible brogues, is just the sort of thing one needs at the beginning of a British autumn, no?
![Balmain brings back the 80s power blazer](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e59/24ea/ff77/4892/6d84/8264/GettyImages-1209261105.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Balmain brings back the 80s power blazer
Balmain gave a nod to the 80s this season, with oversized, doubled-breasted blazers, complete with retro brass buttons. There was definitely a sense of masculinity about this collection, with the majority of looks incorporating power shoulders and slick-backed hair to match.
![Loewe and lapels](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e59/261a/f0f7/7b66/bde6/0782/GettyImages-1209220035.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Loewe and lapels
Loewe's show saw some interestingly oversized lapels incorporated in outwear, like this trench coat.
![Isabel Marant signals to the waist](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e59/26bf/f0f7/7b63/68e6/0788/GettyImages-1209112326.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Isabel Marant signals to the waist
Belts were a big feature at the Isabel Marant show. Nearly every look was cinched in at the waist to create a feminine silhouette, against oversized and chunky knitwear.
![Off-White's new take on practical dressing for your wedding](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e59/28bf/ff77/486f/f084/828f/GettyImages-1209098905.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Off-White's new take on practical dressing for your wedding
Here-comes-the-bride, dressed-in-Off-White. Only Virgil would incorporate a windbreaker and a wedding dress. But, we're into it, and it's practical, given the recent weather. Also, what's a wedding without your close family beside you? No, we're not just talking about Bella, Yolanda walked in the show too.
![Paco Rabanne opts for armour](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e59/2bc6/08ba/aa5a/f742/fafc/GettyImages-1209041025.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Paco Rabanne opts for armour
There were several knights in shining armour at the Paco Rabanne show, and aside from thinking how heavy it must all be, we're pleasantly surprised with the theatrical use of Paco's usual metal chainmail technique.
![Chlou00e9 embraces the long necklace](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e59/2e28/ff77/4821/2684/82b9/GettyImages-1209000956.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Chloé embraces the long necklace
The Chloé show was full of classic heritage prints, like this argyle roll neck. Fair Isle knits were also spotted and so were checks. The collection felt very country-chic, and we're not over the quilted coat – perfect for a Sunday dog walk right? Also, please note, the long statement necklaces, very 2008.
![Celine channels its signature Seventies style](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e5c/f43b/c2ed/b3c2/0718/8173/GettyImages-1209365293.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Celine channels its signature Seventies style
Hedi Slimane isn't reinventing the wheel each season. Instead, his clothes for Celine are wardrobe classics that will prove brilliantly wearable, not just this year but this decade.
![Balenciaga's flooded catwalk makes a statement on climate change](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e5c/f411/ff77/4832/3e84/92eb/GettyImages-1209667215.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Balenciaga's flooded catwalk makes a statement on climate change
Demna Gvasalia took a typically confronting approach to set design for Balenciaga's AW20 show, flooding the catwalk to send a message about the climate crisis and rising sea levels.
![Valentino's fairytale gowns](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e5c/f410/232f/f023/cb4b/aa44/GettyImages-1209713316.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Valentino's fairytale gowns
The gowns are genuinely gasp-worthy at Valentino - and this season's were no different. This semi-sheer floor-sweeper was flecked with sequins and full of drama.
![Givenchy dials up the drama](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e5c/f420/08ba/aa74/1143/0afe/GettyImages-1209848933.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Givenchy dials up the drama
The Givenchy silhouette was supersized for AW20, with hats that took on Handmaid's Tale proportions and dramatically elongated capes.
![Stella McCartney's enlists furry friends for finale](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e5e/2ebc/a419/c624/ab8b/2da5/GettyImages-1209886800.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Stella McCartney's enlists furry friends for finale
First we had Balenciaga's flooded show space, creative director Demna Gvasalia's comment on rising sea levels, then Stella McCartney invited a series of furry friends onto her catwalk to raise awareness about animal welfare. The designer has long championed the use of sustainable fur and leather alternatives and, when the results look this good, here's hoping more designers put their innovative caps on.
![Giambattista Valli gives us girlish elegance](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e5e/2ec0/ff77/4812/8584/995b/GettyImages-1204807880.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Giambattista Valli gives us girlish elegance
You can always rely on Giambattista Valli to deliver girlishness. This off-the-shoulder gown, that stops short of the ankle, is just one dreamy example.
![Alexander McQueen joins the latex army](https://images.bauerhosting.com/legacy/media/5e5e/2ed2/a419/c69b/338b/2da6/044.jpg?auto=format&w=1440&q=80)
Alexander McQueen joins the latex army
Kim and Kourtney Kardashian both wore latex leggings to Kanye West's Sunday Service - and last night Alexander McQueen is backed the wet-look bottom half. Expect to see them everywhere come September.