‘Fendace’ Broke The Internet At Milan Fashion Week

A fashion moment for the history books.

Amber Valletta and Kate Moss

by Natalie Hammond |
Updated on

Donatella Versace practically has 'breaking the internet' on her CV. Who remembers Jennifer Lopez, wearing a re-issued version of the dress that was allegedly the inspiration for Google Image Search? And what about this year's Met Gala, where she dressed Lil Nas X, giving him not one, not two, but three show-stopping gold outfits to arrive in?

A model on the catwalk at Fendi by Versace
Fendi by Versace

But this time, Versace has really outdone herself, putting her stiletto toe across party lines (both label and luxury conglomerate) to produce a collection with Fendi. That's right, to close Milan Fashion Week, the two luxury houses, let by Versace and Kim Jones, joined forces to create Fendace, in other words: Versace by Fendi and Fendi by Versace.

Gigi Hadid on the catwalk at Fendi by Versace
Fendi by Versace

In what constitutes a major mic drop moment in the fashion world, the two collections, one designed by Kim Jones, the other by Donatella Versace, are, according to the show notes, 'a celebration of Italian fashion and a to-hell-with-it disruption of the established order of things, Fendace is Fashion with a capital F – and a capital V. Together they stand for Freedom, Fun and Virtuosity.'

Naomi Campbell on the catwalk at Fendi by Versace
Fendi by Versace

At Fendi by Versace, Donatella Versace took a punk rock stance with chainmail, lace, denim and safety pins that punctured the famous 'F'. Gigi Hadid's silvery two-piece - a bra top and slip skirt, a combination that was also seen on the runway at Versace - was a standout look, one that will undoubtedly become part the house's storied history for many years to come.

Paloma Elsesser on the catwalk at Versace by Fendi
Versace by Fendi

At Versace by Fendi, meanwhile, Fendi's stealth wealth approach to getting dressed (with an emphasis on the understated and sleek) met the unbridled seductiveness of Versace.

Lila Grace Moss Hack on the catwalk for Versace by Fendi
Versace by Fendi

In what will have been an uncanny (yet fabulous) mash-up to many mega-fans, the famous monogram of Fendi, an interlocking 'F', was melded with Versace's Greek Key, creating a new power logo that will no doubt fly on Instagram. Kate Moss wore one of the collection's hottest outfits - a black minidress with a keyhole cut-out - while her daughter, Lila Grace Moss Hack, appeared wearing a gold printed swimsuit and a shoulder-padded jacket.

Amber Valletta and Kate Moss
Versace by Fendi

This isn't the first time such a coming together has happened. Balenciaga famously 'hacked' Gucci, where the former's sculptural suits were covered with the latter's double Gs. But they are both part of the luxury stable at Kering. Fendace was born out of the designers' friendship and mutual respect for one another's creative visions. Could it be a sign of more 'hacking' or 'cross-contamination' in the future? Loewe Vuitton, perhaps? Or Chanelberry? We certainly hope so.

Gallery

SEE: The Highlights Of MFW SS22

Dolce & Gabbana SS221 of 51

Dolce & Gabbana SS22

Dolce & Gabbana took down a trip down memory lane for SS22, arriving in the Noughties, a time when miniskirts, cargo pants and J.Lo, who appeared on crystal-studded tees, ruled supreme. Retracing that period with 'today's eyes, today's volumes and today's proportions', they used vintage stock to remake military trousers and jackets as they did in 2000, sending them down the catwalk with embellished jackets for a hi-lo mix that felt both nostalgic and bang up-to-date.

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Dolce & Gabbana SS22

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Dolce & Gabbana SS22

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Dolce & Gabbana SS22

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Marni SS22

Marni dissolved the barrier between the viewer and the viewed for SS22, inviting all of the attendees, who would normally arrive in their own clothes to watch the show unfold, to be fitted in their very own ensemble by the brand. Susie Lau called it a 'funny role reversal' on Instagram: 'We were all participants at @Marni as journalists, editors, stylists and influencers were all collectively dressed by Marine in a sort of funny role reversal (where in the ye olde days "print" people used to snub "bloggers" for being dressed by brands). Everywhere we donned a uniform of hand painted Marni pieces bearing limited edition labels.' On the catwalk itself, confident stripes multiplied across many of the outfits, sending a message of connectedness, while daisy motifs bloomed on bra tops and long skirts.

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Marni SS22

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Marni SS22

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Giorgio Armani SS22

A sense of old-world glamour combined with modern execution at Giorgio Armani, where power separates were given soft edges and sparkles reigned supreme in the final few looks.

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Giorgio Armani SS22

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Giorgio Armani SS22

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Moncler + DingYun Zhang

Moncler Genius, the puffer powerhouse's designer collaborations factory, this season became MONDOGENIUS, an immersive digital experience that, led by Alicia Keys, took the viewer on a journey through five cities to explore the work of 11 designers, including JW Anderson, DingYun Zhang and Palm Angels.

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1 Moncler JW Anderson

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8 Moncler Palm Angels

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Versace SS22

The supers and celebs turned out in full force for Versace SS22. Precious Lee, Emily Ratajkowski, Gigi Hadid, Naomi Campbell and Dua Lipa, making her debut, all sashayed down the catwalk wearing a collection inspired by the iconic silk foulard. Lipa, the brand's campaign star for autumn, closed the show in the most spectacular fashion, wearing a spangled hot pink bra top and slip skirt that will turn up on the red carpet in no time.

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Versace SS22

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Versace SS22

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Versace SS22

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Prada SS22

Raf Simons, combined with the genius of Miuccia Prada, always seems to come up with something entirely new. Something that, as soon as you've clapped eyes on it, seems like the most alluring garment you've ever beheld. That thing is now the mullet-hemmed miniskirt. Seen on the catwalk in numerous iterations - from tangerine to chartreuse to powder pink - it looks sensational with polo necks, cardigans, leather pea coats and sculptural polo sweaters.

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Prada SS22

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Prada SS22

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Prada SS22

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Sportmax SS22

John Cage - an artist, producer, composer and musical theorist who was a leading figure in the post-war avant garden in America - was the inspiration for Sportmax SS22, particularly 4'33", his most celebrated composition, and his exploration of opposites. But how did this translate to the clothes? With 'a controlled clash' that explored opposing forces like order and chaos, light and obscurity. 18th century corsetry was juxtaposed with ultra clean lines; the lightness of gauze, georgette and tulle distinguishing itself from leather, satin, cotton and jacquard. Set in a stark white space, intended to conjure a feeling of contemplative silence, it was a soaring moment in Milan.

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Sportmax SS22

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Sportmax SS22

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Sportmax SS22

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Tod's SS22

Tod's made a very persuasive case for the high and mighty hemline this SS22. The first look, worn by Gigi Hadid, was a zippered coat that brushed the upper thigh and chunky leather sandals. From there, things got even more brief, from the knickers styled with leather biker jackets to tulip-shaped dresses worn with patent platform boots. Prepare to venture into barely-there territory.

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Tod's SS22

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Tod's SS22

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Tod's SS22

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Emporio Armani SS22

The maestro's approach to designing and dressing can be summed up with what was written in show notes: 'Under the symbol of an eagle that flies high and knows no boundaries, for forty years, Emporio Armani has been expressing the joys of fashion free from imposed rules, that nevertheless maintains the harmony of shapes, balance, and the sense of nonchalant elegance that are the essence of Armani style.' And that's exactly what this show delivered with its signature quest for lightness, the effortless fluidity of the cuts and the soft wearability of the colours. New ideas focused on tailoring, including suiting as soft as pyjamas and blazers as light as shirts.

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Emporio Armani SS22

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Emporio Armani SS22

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Etro SS22

At Etro, a 'joyful mysticism and awakening typical of the '70s' provided the show's frame of reference, but, crucially, with 'reminiscences of '90s slickness'. Veronica Etro relied on a kaleidoscopic range of patterns - lush flowers, paisley motifs and upholstery-inspired prints - with an emphasis on positive energy. Jill Kortleve's look - a wallpaper-print turtleneck and matching sarong-style skirt - was our favourite.

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Etro SS22

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Etro SS22

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Max Mara SS22

Max Mara was inspired by a, 'smart, sulky, Beat Generation intellectuelle,' for SS22 - and, in particular, Françoise Quoirez (widely known as Françoise Sagan). 'An ungovernable teenager, a devotee of Proust, Stendhal, Gide and Camus, she was twice expelled from school (once for hanging a bust of Molière),' read the show notes, eventually writing her literary masterpiece Boujour Tristesse, whose heroine, Cécile, is the ultimate 'bourgeois rebel'. Cue easy beatnik chic in the form of perfectly proportioned overcoats, smart-yet-sexy skirt suits and black party dresses.

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Max Mara SS22

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Max Mara SS22

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Max Mara SS22

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Jil Sander SS22

'We are plural, nocturnal, and luminous; feminine, masculine, vulnerable and strong; and we shouldn't take ourselves too seriously,' read the show notes at Jil Sander, the fashionable thinker's favourite label for soft power staples like this hollandaise-coloured trouser suit, worn with an elaborate yet effortless collar.

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Jil Sander SS22

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Jil Sander SS22

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Jil Sander SS22

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Alberta Ferretti SS22

At Alberta Ferretti, there was a focus on the body, with an effortless collection that shone a light, as always, on craftsmanship. Lengths were extreme (either very short or extended), while volumes were soft or body-sculpting. Colours started with easy-to-wear neutrals, but eventually turned the vivid colours of precious stones, while the only print, the butterfly, captures the spirit of rebirth in the clothes.

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Alberta Ferretti SS22

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Alberta Ferretti SS22

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Alberta Ferretti SS22

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Fendi SS22

Fendi kicked off proceedings with a catwalk set under a beautiful network of mirrored arches, reflecting the collection's stealth wealth brand of polish. Coffee-coloured looks, a signature of Kim Jones', gave way to glorious dashes of gold, pink and orange on flowing '70s silhouettes, while the sex appeal was dialled to 10 with sheer logoed tights and triangle bra tops worn with suiting. In terms of accessories, our money's on the hands-free pouch - a guaranteed hit on next season's street style circuit and beyond.

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Fendi SS22

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Fendi SS22

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Fendi SS22

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