Karl Lagerfeld's tenure at Chanel saw the Grand Palais in Paris transformed into some of the most spectacular sets. Almost life-size wind turbines, working carousels, entire Alpine resorts and even sandy beaches – complete with real, lapping waves which kissed the shore – have all provided a catwalk for Chanel's collections, which really redefined the very idea of what a fashion show could, and should, be. Following his death, newly-appointed creative director Virginie Viard maintained this theatrical approach to the French maison's shows by constructing huge libraries, gardens and even the rooftops of Paris. For autumn/winter 2021, however, Viard chose to take a dramatically different approach, resulting in a much more intimate and intriguing stage for her latest Chanel collection.
Of course, this is a dramatically different time to be presenting a fashion show which, as a result of Covid-19, is unable to be held in Paris with a live audience as usual. Instead, Viard recruited Inez and Vinoodh to film the 'show', which paid homage to Lagerfeld's Chanel shows of the 1970s.
'I wanted a small space,' said Viard. 'I don’t know if this is because of the times we live in, but I wanted something warm, lively. I imagined the models doing a show for themselves, going from room to room, crossing each other in staircases, piling their coats up in the cloakroom and going up to the next floor to get changed. And I thought of the shows that Karl would tell me about, back in the day, a long time ago, when the models would dress themselves and do their own make-up.'
The location Viard settled on was Chez Castel, the legendary Paris nightclub which has hosted some of the world's most famous faces since it opened in 1961. 'I like Castel so much for its many salons, the spiral staircase, its bar, the journey through this venue, its little house style, where the models can get changed, dressed and undressed, do their make-up together, and have fun like a girls night in. It’s very sensual,' Viard said.
That sensuality is certainly present in the collection, too, which juxtaposes bouclé and tweed jackets with tulle layers so delicate, they're more of a suggestion than a piece of clothing. This idea of peeling away these various layers was very appealing, seen in the form of quilted jumpsuits worn over shirts, turtlenecks worn under boxy jackets and long, heavy coats worn over hot pants with bare legs – contrasts between volume and proportion that Viard says were very much influenced by Stella Tennant, who died suddenly at the end of last year. 'The way she wore certain pieces, it was so Chanel.'
Viard's Chanel remains true to the house's distinctive codes but it is certainly designed with the modern woman in mind. The shaggy moon boots, for example, have unzippable legs, revealing silver heeled boots in which to go dancing. These pieces are versatile and, to a point, practical, too.
Viard's vision is distinct for AW21, as she explained: 'This collection is a mix of two influences: the ambiance of ski holidays, which I adore, and a certain idea of cool Parisian chic, from the 1970s to now.' For those keen to get back on the slopes when lockdown restrictions are lifted, this is certainly the collection for them. Salopettes-ski suits come embroidered with the Chanel logo, cropped knits can be layered over, well, anything and even beanie hats have been given the Chanel seal of approval.
While the usual parade of A-list guests had no front row on which to sit, Inez and Vinoodh did film a video showing various celebrities 'waiting for the show to start', dancing around, playing on their phones and generally passing the time. They included Andra Day, Margaret Qualley, Whitney Peak, Soo Joo Park, Caroline de Maigret and Liu Wen, all dressed, of course, in Chanel.
SEE: The Highlights From Paris Fashion Week AW21
1 of 18Miu Miu
Chanel may have been inspired by skiwear for AW21 but at Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada quite literally transported us all to the slopes with the Miu Miu Mountain Club. Exploring the idea of community and like-mindedness, the Miu Miu models were explored the landscape of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the heart of Dolomites Alps, making for one stylish expedition. The delicate – silk-satin dresses, lace details – blended with the robust nature of protective clothing, seen here in padded layers, ski masks and faux fur, reflecting the tension between practicality and fantasy. Ultimately, Miu Miu wants us all to have our own practical fantasy for autumn/winter.
2 of 18Chanel
Virginie Viard's vision is distinct for AW21, as she explained: 'This collection is a mix of two influences: the ambiance of ski holidays, which I adore, and a certain idea of cool Parisian chic, from the 1970s to now.' For those keen to get back on the slopes when lockdown restrictions are lifted, this is certainly the collection for them. Salopettes-ski suits come embroidered with the Chanel logo, cropped knits can be layered over, well, anything and even beanie hats have been given the Chanel seal of approval. There was also a distinct sensuality to the clothes, which juxtaposed stiff tweeds with delicate, barely-there chiffon inspired, Viard said, by the late, great Stella Tennant. 'The way she wore certain pieces, it was so Chanel.'
3 of 18Givenchy
For his sophomore Givenchy collection, creative director Matthew M. Williams was thinking about tension. 'We wanted to bring a sense of lived reality alongside precision, elegance and extravagance in the clothing and looks,' he says. 'Ultimately, fashion for us is a way of being, feeling and connecting rather than a game to be played. It's almost like monumentalising the everyday, filling it with emotion – like music you can wear'. This translated into slinky maxi dresses and rigorous tailoring teamed with tough accessories like stompy rubber boots and chunky monogrammed chains. Expect Williams' Givenchy gang to go gaga for the lot.
4 of 18Paco Rabanne
Who isn't ready for a bit of hedonism? Paco Rabanne's Julien Dossena certainly is, according to his exuberantly eclectic AW21 collection which mashed together the codes of day and after dark wardrobes with a refreshing joyousness - perfect for the woman who's having too much fun to go to bed. Unsurprisingly for a house that boasts chainmail as a signature (seen here on slinky bejewelled dresses) the collection '[explored] conspicuous embellishment as a form of empowerment'. A bit Helmut Newton Parisienne, a bit Sloane Ranger gone wild, come 21 June we'll all want to be a Paco girl.
5 of 18Balmain
When we can finally go on holiday again, the fun will all start at the airport (let's eke out every second of it, shall we?). At Balmain, Olivier Rousteing celebrated the joy of travel for his AW21 collection - presented in Air France's hangars. Inspiration was found in the uniforms of early pilots and astronauts - see the luxe iterations of jumpsuits, bomber jackets and lace-up flight boots. But this being Balmain, glamour was never far away courtesy of glitzy metallics, jumbo shades and generously shoulder-padded, gold buttoned bourgeois jackets. The Balmain woman, after all, never travels in coach.
6 of 18Dior
For her AW21 Dior collection, presented during Paris Fashion Week, Maria Grazia Chiuri looked to fairytales for inspiration. But for the designer who has made her feminism integral to the brand, the collection - pertinently unveiled on International Women's Day - was about finding strength within. Grazia Chiuri's women never wait to be rescued. Presented in the Palace of Versailles' Hall of Mirrors (mirrors symbolic of seeing things both as they are and how we want things to be, of both truth and delusion) the collection absorbed both the codes of the house and the visual language of traditional fairytales. The iconic Bar jacket was reimagined with Little Red Hood hoods; Alice in Wonderland pinafores came in laser-cut leather.
7 of 18A.P.C.
A.P.C. is a brand that doesn't really 'do' trends. Rather, fans flock to the French brand for denim, knits, tailoring - wardrobe essentials that earn forever status in your wardrobe. But that's not to say it doesn't react to what's going on in the world. This season, founder Jean Touitou says: 'These dark and disturbing times encouraged us to use more colours and convey an optimistic message'. Fuzzy coats, natty sweaters and east dresses are just one reason to look forward to the return to reality.
8 of 18Schiaparelli
2021 is already shaping up to be a stonking year for Schiaparelli's Daniel Roseberry: see, Lady Gaga at the presidential inauguration and Emma Corrin at the Critics' Choice Awards. His stellar streak continues with the AW21 collection, where Roseberry amplifies glamour with an outré, surreal wit that will make it a guaranteed hit among the red carpet's boundary pushers. These clothes, he says, 'allow for freedom of expression, whether that's a shout or a whisper' - what better motto to take into 2021?
9 of 18Coperni
Bored of staying in? From the looks of their AW21 collection, Coperni's Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant feel the same. The drive-in show, held at the Accord Arena stadium, was a celebration of 'the night-time of celebration, of seduction and of plunging into the unknown'. Over-the-knee boots, micro dresses (Mica Argañaraz's twinkling, transparent shift had major '90s Kate Moss vibes) and faux fur coats are made for going out - and staying out - in.
10 of 18Nina Ricci
For AW21, Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter answered contemporary questions of protection, comfort and effortless self-expression with a collection of volume, unexpected colour combinations and textural mash-ups.
11 of 18Loewe
In a world where physical shows aren't possible, Jonathan Anderson has proved himself to be somethin of a magician when it comes to coming up with captivating alternatives at Loewe. First there was his 'show in a box', then his 'show on a wall', where 'attendees' were sent giant posters of his models wearing each look, the 'wallpaper', along with brushes and paste. For AW21, he pulled the boat out yet again with his very own newspaper supplement with a splash that read, 'The Loewe Show Has Been Cancelled', which was not only distributed to would-be guests, but in today's newspapers such as The Times and Le Monde. Inside, readers found each look from what would have been the show, as well as the first chapter from The Affair, the brand new book from Danielle Steel.
12 of 18Rick Owens
Rick Owens showed every single look, staged near his home on Venice's Lido, with a face covering for AW21, a decision that was very much deliberate. 'I have show masks with these pandemic looks not because my masks are guaranteed protection, but because they are a vote for responsibility and consideration and an acknowledgement of our immediate collective experience,' said Owens. Elsewhere, skin-tight body coverings were made to resemble an upholstered gear shift knob, while 'power shoulder bombers' were designed to mock male aggression and conservatism.
13 of 18Dries Van Noten
As the master of theatrical clothes that still ooze wearability, Dries Van Noten delivered a show that brought each garment to life for AW21. With a cast of dancers as well as models, his signature florals and sequin embellishments shone as they twisted and turned to the music.
14 of 18Acne Studios
Jonny Johansson meditated on this strange transition period between isolation and re-emergence for AW21. 'I was thinking about what happens when we emerge from isolation, the same but also somehow different. This collection is a dreamscape that begins with soft pastel colours, before awakening into monochromatic clarity, which is an ode to the white or black clothes worn for rituals in our life cycle, like weddings and funerals.' Oversized wrap coats look almost like dressing gowns and knitted separates (with their fuzzy outer texture) are like teddy bears. Thick socks worn with almost every look, meanwhile, perhaps suggest that this very familiar and cosy kind of comfort is just as good when we 'wake up' this summer.
15 of 18Chloé
For her inaugural collection as creative director of Chloé, Gabriela Hearst laid out her plan for the house's future with a collection that was four times more sustainable than this time last year. Staging her 'show' on the deserted cobbled streets of Paris, Hearst chose to mark a very special anniversary for the maison: one hundred years to the day of Gaby Aghion's birth. And the founder's touch was felt all over the collection, from her famous scallop detailing which became petalled leather to her broderie anglaise which found its way onto ankle-sweeping sweater dresses. But this was very much Hearst's collection, and was filled with her point of view, from the strong knitwear category (something that always features heavily in her own collections and draws on her Uruguayan heritage) to the fact that sustainability has been thought of at every possible opportunity. Hearst has started off by eliminating polyester and viscose, and sourcing recycled, reused and organic denim. More than 50% of the silk comes from organic agriculture, and more than 80% of the cashmere yarn for knitwear is recycled, while the emissions produced from the show are also being offset with a reforestation project in Myanmar.
16 of 18Longchamp
Longchamp's galloping racehorse logo served as a starting point for the show's sporty mood where models, wearing short shorts and riding boots, led horses around the 'catwalk', Paris's Battesti riding hall.
17 of 18Thebe Magugu
Last season, Thebe Magugu based his collection on testimonies from female spies working during South Africa's Apartheid. This season, his inspiration was African spirituality, and saw the designer collaborating with the traditional healer, Noentla Khumalo, who uses the medium of bones to communicate. 'This season, I wanted to have a conversation with traditional healers, who have divinely been given powers to answer our most burning questions, and who act as a conduit between various realms, often by using objects of divination. It's a very particular kind of strength, one that doesn't show-off and relies heavily on the natural,' said Magugu.
18 of 18Marine Serre
As the cool face of a more mindful approach to fashion, Marine Serre presented a documentary, a book and a collection for AW21, building on her concept of 'ecofuturism'. What this boils down to is a strengthening of the brand's core values of environmental conscious (Serre relies heavily on both rendered fabrics and recycled yarns), resilience and accessibility. But what of the clothes themselves? Serre's signature moon-print bodywear appeared on everything from hand-warmers to tights to babygros, while silk scarves were ingeniously transformed into baseball caps, zippered jackets and even a bustier.