Some brands stage a catwalk show. Others stage a takeover. As the biggest luxury house on the London Fashion Week schedule, British superbrand Burberry proved its clout by giving showgoers a spectacle… and then some.
In the lead up to today’s runway show, Burberry-branded content began springing up across the capital. First, a week-long residency at Norman’s Cafe saw the cult North London institution transformed with blue check cafe curtains, dishing out plates of fry ups emblazoned with the iconic Equestrian Knight logo. Even Mary Berry paid a visit. Then, Central Line commuters were shocked with the disappearance of Bond Street station, replaced temporarily by Burberry Street in honour of the flagship store located at 21-23 New Bond Street.
But that was just the warm up act. The powerhouse brand continued to flex its muscle at this afternoon’s blockbuster showcase, which brought the likes of Naomi Campbell, Rachel Weisz and Burna Boy to the FROW. They were joined by Arsenal footballer Bukayo Saka, Olympic gold-medallist Mo Farah and music icon Kylie Minogue.
It was equally starry on the catwalk, too, with Liberty Ross, Karen Elson and Edie Campbell all taking a turn down the runway.
The show was staged outside in London’s Highbury Fields in a giant tent with a new check print, with a Norman’s Cafe food truck serving cups of tea and slices of Guinness bread to guests. Under the canopy, green painted park benches lined the catwalk, adorned with padded blankets and Burberry-branded Thermos flasks on every seat.
Accordingly, ‘best of British’ was the order of the day, designed for 2023’s luxury global consumer. Continuing creative director Daniel Lee’s modern heritage vision for the house, the Bradford-born designer’s second collection for the house served as an evolution of the trademarks introduced at his debut showcase in February.
A brand best known for its trench coats, these came thick and fast, each more luxurious than the last, cut from butter soft leather, defined by oversized buckle belts or splashed in a statement chain print motif.
Knight Blue - the shade revived by Lee from the brand’s archives - featured subtly throughout, appearing on everything from jackets and prints to sunglasses. The collection also flew the flag for postbox red and crisp white, alongside a healthy dose of highly bankable black.
It was an offering which prioritised elevated everyday staples. Tailoring, shirting and outerwear was in strong supply, the offering primed for a shopper who needs a day dress more than a red carpet gown. The menswear offering was particularly strong, managing to toe the line between high fashion and wearability with beautiful results.
The 37-year-old designer joined in 2022 from luxury Italian label Bottega Veneta, where profits soared and a cult following gathered during his three-year tenure. His reputation in masterminding a must-have viral accessory precedes him. True to form, almost every model in today’s show carried a bag, ranging from scarf-trimmed satchels to padded leather totes and half-moon crossbody bags. The shoes served as a talking point amongst the crowd spanning rattan espadrille mules to rhinestone-encrusted clogs - all served up with a healthy dose of British wit and irreverence.