Fashion bragging rights are no longer the preserve of those with hardcore shopping habits. Among the sartorially enlightened, they are hard-earned badges of honour, often recognised only by those in the know (and, after reading this, by you too).
In 2025, perhaps the greatest kudos comes from shopping secondhand, recognising those who’ve embraced the challenge of scrolling, waiting and haggling. It’s undoubtedly tedious, so why commit to the vintage haggle rather than shopping new? One reason: sustainability, as noted by Maximilian Bittner, Vestiaire Collective’s chief executive. But ‘by far the dominant driver is price’, he says. Fashion prices have reached their apex and for cash-strapped shoppers, a benefit of trawling the archives is the prospect of scoring a real deal (never mind the resale value) and the inimitability of finding a rare sartorial relic that no one else has.
No surprise, then, that preloved clothes already account for £175bn – or 9% – of total global fashion sales, with a continuous upwards trajectory. Brands are getting in on the action and, as a response to the current demand for archival pieces, are reissuing some of their most beloved designs, further driving up the value of the originals. Point is, if rising above the fashion fray at the school gates is the goal, a logo crossbody will no longer cut it. All the cool mums now wear archive – but not all vintage fashion equals a good investment. While some increase in value over time, such as Dior and Prada, whose resale value has gone up by 12% and 11% respectively over the past five years, other designer goods bring little return.
So, here’s our guide to the brands and collections to invest in to get your money’s worth – if you’re up to the challenge.
Céline (with an é)
Céline by Phoebe Philo is the stuff of legend. She directed the brand from 2008 until 2017 – and changed how we dress. Oversized tailoring, ugly shoes, and giant totes – all her. Céline is still the holy grail of archive fashion. Online, search by year, collection or her name, while charity shops in affluent areas are a good place to start. (Also bookmark Michael Kors’ years at the brand: 1997–2003.)
Gucci by Tom Ford
Once in a blue moon, a creative director is so successful that they outshine the brand that employs them. Ford is one such: his Gucci years (1994–2004) didn’t only redefine fashion as we know it, putting sexy on the map, but are only referred to by fashion fanatics as ‘Tom Ford Gucci’. Buy into his horsebit and Jackie bags or lean into his body-skimming eveningwear, sexed-up heels and infamous silk shirts, as worn by Madonna and Julianne Moore. Try breakarchive.com for the best chance.
Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons and its founder, Rei Kawakubo, have puzzled the style set since 1969 with her conceptual designs. There are many lines to the brand and, while teenage boys might yearn for the CDG Play heart T-shirts, what you want to spend on are runway pieces. A gingham fan? Look for the S/S ’97 Lumps and Bumps collection. The A/W ‘01 Beyond Taboo collection is great if lacy nighties are more your bag. Bookmark The 543and Files London for special pieces.
Chloé
When Chloé’s current creative director, Chemena Kamali, reissued the Chloé Paddington on the brand’s latest runway, searches for it surged. Now the It bag is trending again and resale websites still host the Keira Knightley-approved staple. While you’re at it, look up Stella McCartney’s Chloé era (1997–2001): her zodiac sign and banana tees are hot property, as are Phoebe Philo’s beaded bags (yes, she’s made Chloé go viral, too).
www.vestiairecollective.com
With its signature lock-and-key and slouchy appearance, Chloé's Paddington is back with bang in 2025.
Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière
Got a Balenciaga Le City bag in your attic? Dig it out pronto. Because its creator, Nicolas Ghesquière, who helmed the house 1997–2021, is the new go-to for vintage hunters, proving his designs are still worth their price tags over a decade after he left the brand. If the skinny-trousers-big-shearling-jacket silhouette of late seems familiar, it’s because Ghesquière did it first. It’s a bit off-duty model at Paris Fashion Week with a soupçon of Kate Moss and the Olsen Twins. Let’s show the kids how indie sleaze is done.
www.balenciaga.com
Two decades later and the rectangular bag with its studs and buckles is still being sort after.
Prada and Miu Miu
All hail Miuccia Prada, perhaps the most influential designer of our generation. Vinted is a treasure trove for archive Prada and Miu Miu; also bookmark PA-Archive. Scratch your minimalist itch with her early collections and go ostentatious with later designs (a shearling coat from the A/W ‘14 collection is now valued at around £5k).
Galliano-era Dior
If Eurotrash-meets-couture is your juice, then John Galliano’s years at Dior (1996–2011) will tickle your fancy. His ready-to-wear collections defined the ’00s’ discombobulated aesthetic. You may already be aware of the saddle bag, but the latest Dior show paid tribute to his J’Adore Dior tees, proving an original noughties find is fashion’s holy grail.
www.vestiairecollective.com
Pair with ripped denim cut-offs and pay homage to the '00s.
Henrik Lischke is the senior fashion features editor at Grazia. Prior to that, he held the role of commerce writer at British Vogue, and was junior fashion editor at The Sunday Times Style. A first-class honours Fashion Journalism graduate from UAL: London College of fashion, Henrik is invariably on the lookout for the newest talent in fashion, that is driving the industry forward, and shining the spotlight on them whenever possible. He’s also got a passion for interiors design and the arts. Follow Henrik on Instagram @henriklischke.
Main Image credit: ©WARNER BROS/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION