What Is Bakuchiol And Is It As Effective As Retinol?

Taking the skincare sector by storm, we’ve spoken to Dr Sam Bunting to find out everything you need to know about this popular ingredient

Updated on14th January 2021 at 11.24am

Touted as a natural alternative to retinol, bakuchiol (pronounced buh-koo-chee-all) has recently flooded into the mainstream with so many new skincare launches showcasing the potent power of this super star ingredient. Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is hailed as one of the most effective anti-ageing ingredients that increases cell turnover and stimulates collagen production to reveal even, plumper, more radiant skin. ‘When you apply retinol, it re-educates your skin cells to behave like younger, healthier cells,’ explains Debbie Thomas, celebrity facialist and founder of D Thomas Clinic.

The downside? For first timers and those using a high percentage, it can often cause irritation including dryness and flakiness. But what if we said there’s an alternative that works just like retinol but doesn’t come with the side effects? Enter: bakuchiol. To find out more about beauty’s new buzz-worthy skincare ingredient and how to use it, we’ve quizzed skincare expert Dr Sam Bunting…

What Is Bakuchiol?

‘Bakuchiol is a plant-derived skincare ingredient from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, which is found in Sri Lanka and India,’ explains Bunting. ‘Whilst it doesn’t share the same chemical structure as the retinoid family, it has the ability to activate their receptors, meaning it can deliver similar benefits, potentially without some of the side effects.’

Is Bakuchiol As Good As Retinol?

An interesting paper published in the British Journal of Dermatology compared the effects of 0.5% bakuchiol when used twice daily with 0.5% retinol used nightly. There were 50 female participants in total, all with sun damage in their late 40s. The results found that both ingredients improved wrinkles and hyperpigmentation to a similar extent.

‘And like retinoids, bakuchiol seems to tackle multiple points in the acne pathway – helping to treat both active blemishes and prevent new ones,’ says Bunting. ‘It’s great to have both anti-ageing and anti-blemish properties in such a well-tolerated ingredient.’

Does Bakuchiol Cause Skin Irritation?

‘In the aforementioned study, the retinol users experienced more stinging and scaling than those who used bakuchiol - so it seems tolerability may well be better,’ says Bunting. What’s more - it’s also suitable for daytime use as it doesn’t sensitise skin to sunlight or break down when exposed to UV light (as retinoids tend to).

Who Should Use Bakuchiol?

‘It’s incredibly helpful in adult women with sensitive skin who are concerned with premature ageing and are acne-prone (this group represents at least 50% of my clinic audience) and it’s why I made it a central ingredient in my Flawless Nightly Serum, £39.’ It’s also a brilliant antioxidant, so it helps prevent future sun damage too.

‘You can use 0.5-1% bakuchiol once or twice a day. And the good news is that it plays well with other ingredients too.’ Double win!