Dubbed the ‘gold star ingredient for anti-ageing’ by dermatologists, retinoland other vitamin A derivatives (collectively known as retinoids) have been the darling of the skincare world for the past few years. The market for the fine line plumping, pigmentationbusting, blemish destroying skincare ingredient is booming; valued at $1.5 billion in 2022, it can be found in the beauty routines of dermatologists, cosmetic surgeons, celebrities and beauty editors across the world. However, the rise (and rise) of retinol has hit a bump, a European Union sized obstacle that proposes a retinol ban to be precise.
New laws on retinol have come into play in the European Union restricting the concentration of retinol in over-the-counter products including serums, moisturisers and body lotions. Under the new legislation face and hand products will be permitted to contain 0.3% pure retinol while body lotions will be allowed to include retinol at 0.05%.
Why the crack down? ‘The EU has decided to restrict the concentration of retinol to address the potential overexposure to Vitamin A, which regulators say can have adverse effects on health’, explains Dr Anjali Mahto, Consultant Dermatologist at Self London.
Regulators at the European Union Commission, found two potential problems with excessive retinol use. ‘One is the risk, which is well understood, that high strength retinoids can cause irritation of the skin and compromise the skin barrier,’ says Dr Sophie Shotter, aesthetic doctor at GetHarley. That’s not to say all retinol use is dangerous. ‘It’s widely, and safely, used in skincare for its anti-ageing and acne-fighting properties,’ says Dr Mahto, ‘but in high concentrations it can lead to irritation, redness and increased sensitivity to sunlight if used incorrectly, especially for individuals with sensitive skin.’
Potential skin irritation aside, regulators are also concerned that the overuse of retinol runs the risk of problems not just for the skin, but for our wider health. Research has found that applying vitamin A topically adds to our overall intake when combined with vitamin A found in food and supplements. According to dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips an excess of vitamin A can, ‘result in vitamin A toxicity, or hypervitaminosis, with a risk of damage to the liver, nervous system and broader health implications.’ Sounds scary, but Phillips is quick to point out that the amount of retinol absorbed through the skin is low and the greatest risk is from oral ingestion of vitamin A in foods and supplements rather than from topical products. ‘When formulating regulations for retinol concentrations in skincare products, authorities consider both dietary intake and topical application to mitigate the risk of excessive vitamin A exposure and its potential adverse effects on health,’ adds Mahto.
Cue vitamin A skincare fans rushing to stockpile precious reserves of retinol. Not so fast. There is a grace period of three years before the new restrictions officially take place with measures coming into play gradually from late 2024. Although this is an EU regulation Dr Shotter tells Grazia that the UK has also decided to introduce these restrictions. As well as restrictions in the strength of retinol products available without medical recommendation, new product labelling will also be mandatory. ‘A statement indicating the presence of vitamin A-related compounds and their contribution to daily vitamin A intake will be required,’ notes Mahto.
For those that are concerned that they won’t be able to continue using their beloved retinol, for now heed Dr Shotter’s advice: ‘Please don’t rush out and stockpile product,’ she warns, ‘product has an expiry date, and it will go off before you can use it all.’ It’s also worth noting that stronger doesn’t always mean better. ‘I’ve seen more and more cases of people suffering from skin barrier irritation and compromise as a result of retinol overuse,’ says Dr Shotter, who stresses that ‘weaker products are still beneficial for the skin, we don’t all need more, more, more.’
With that in mind, consider a retinoid alternative. Dr Shotter is a fan of peptides ‘which can stimulate collagen and elastin levels’, her go to is alastin. Mahto is also a fan of formulations that offer similar benefits to retinol, citing peptides and bakuchiol as two good options.
Retinol products won’t disappear overnight. Plus, the new restrictions don’t make all over the counter retinol products redundant. Products that meet the new concentration criteria will be available as will the vitamin A derivative retinal - although other derivatives such as retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate will have to adhere to the updated regulations.
Prescription retinoids such as Tretinoin won’t be affected so if you’re concerned that weaker retinoids aren’t an option for you speak to a skin professional. They will assess your skin and see if a higher dose retinoid is necessary, if it is they will be able to prescribe this for you.
The new retinol regulations are a complicated business and one even the experts aren’t totally au fait with. ‘Even we [the dermatologists] don’t fully understand what the new laws will look like,’ admits Dr Shotter, ‘until we do, we can’t advise on what will and won’t be available.’
Verity Clark is Grazia's Acting Health & Beauty Director using her decade of industry experience to champion honest conversations within the beauty space