When was the last time you considered the environmental impact of your hair dye habit? If the answer is anything more recent than ‘never,’ I’d be impressed. While I’ve agonised over the tiniest differences between the blonde Pantones on a hairdresser’s chart and spent too long pondering what ‘undertones’ actually mean (if they actually mean anything), I’ve never given much thought to the stuff that’s painted onto my roots every three months or so. Thanks to the bluey-violet colour, I’m vaguely aware that hydrogen peroxide is in there somewhere; that aside, I have little to no idea about what’s in the dye I’ve been so beholden to for over a decade, let alone what it’s doing to the world and, potentially, doing to me.
It’s hard to find conclusive answers to such questions online, where headlines are either scare-mongering or equivocal. The limited research available does suggest that the likes of ammonia, p-phenylednediamine and peroxide, all commonly found in hair dye, are micropollutants that disrupt ecosystems in our rivers and seas; they can also react unpredictably with chemicals we use to treat our drinking water. However, they certainly aren’t exclusive to hair products. In fact, they’re common ingredients in anything from cosmetics to textile dyes to photocopying ink – hence the equivocation. But when we're all attempting to cut down on single use plastic, reduce our meat consumption and adopt a more (Gwyneth Paltrow voice) 'conscious' attitude to, well, everything, it certainly seems like the right time to extend such an approach to hair colour.
What are the advantages of eco-friendly colour?
Ahead of the curve when it comes to eco-friendly hair care is Olivia Crighton, founder of Glasshouse Salon in Hackney’s Netil House. Since opening in 2013, the East London salon has gained a cult following for its fresh, modern approach to colour and environmental ethos, which focuses on long-term hair health using plant-based ingredients. Her team use the Organic Colour Systems collection, a little-known brand based in the New Forest which, as Olivia puts it, ‘is made up of 96 percent natural ingredients and 60 percent certified organic ingredients.’ This means no micropollutants. ‘We use no ammonia, no recosinol and the lowest possible levels of PPD,’ she explains. ‘Ultimately, this means you’re not compromising the condition of your hair to the same degree. Better condition means less colour fade, less breakage and a much more predictable colour result.’ The benefits, then, seem to be twofold: longer-lasting colour and healthier hair, plus a clearer conscience.
How does it work?
The Glasshouse approach isn’t one size fits all. First up is a wet-stretch test, something I’ve never previously experienced in a salon, which Olivia explains helps to identify the type of hair, ‘so that we can care for it in the right way and improve its overall condition.’ My stylist Mia takes a damp strand of my hair and stretches it to test for elasticity, porosity and dryness. What I soon learn is that while my hair looks healthy-ish to the untrained eye, it’s too stretchy around the mid-lengths and brittle at the ends – typical for someone with long hair and a long-term dye habit. The prescription is a quinoa protein treatment, which is sponged onto the ends, then begins to bubble and foam. After this is washed off, the colour is applied wet (another unusual technique), then left to process before again being washed off and followed up with a eco-friendly toner treatment, to take the colour down to a cooler (ie. less yellowy) shade of blonde.
As with any colour treatment, good aftercare is vital. Outside of the salon, it can be hard to cut through the noise of brands purporting to peddle green products (while almost always coming up short in their green credentials). As a starting point, Olivia notes that ‘shampoos and conditioners containing sulphates and sodium chloride can pull colour from the hair over time, so I recommend this regardless of whether you have used conventional or a more naturally based hair colour.’ (Plus, Jonathan from Queer Eye would approve!) Along with Organic Colour Systems, her favourites include New Zealand-based brand Sans[ceuticals] and Austin Austin products, which are certified by the Soil Association.
Can natural colour really achieve the same results as traditional hair dye?
I admit: after years of relying on traditional bleach to lift my natural hair colour, I’m a little skeptical that natural products could ever achieve the same finish – but, as I soon learn, so was Olivia when she first made the switch. ‘When I was looking for alternatives to traditional salon colour, my initial expectation was that fewer chemicals might compromise performance,’ she explains. ‘But I was pleasantly surprised to see that the more gently I worked, the better the colour results. When it comes to blondes, we use an ammonia free powder lightener in place of traditional bleach. By being more gentle on the hair we can actually achieve cleaner, brighter and more even results.’ Pleasantly surprised is one way to put it. The end result surpasses my (admittedly cynical) expectations entirely. Not only is the finished colour as bright as ever, Mia has also managed to give it new life with a more nuanced, fresher shade, and I soon realise that I’ve turned into someone I never thought I’d become: a quinoa protein evangelist.
Explore the Grazia team's favourite London salons in the gallery below...
BROWSE: Best Hair Salons In London
1 of 14Taylor Taylor London, Liberty
Who goes here: The A-list clientele are as diverse as Rachel Weisz, Sir Ian McKellan and Gisele.Why we love it: Everything about Taylor Taylor is catered towards making your cut and blow dry feel like a pampering experience, from the individual antique mirrors to the endless supply of mimosas.Best for: Colour. All four Taylor Taylor salons use pioneering olaplex and Davines products to ensure that the hair is left in the best condition possible after dying. Just one look at their Instagram shows you how successful they are in this area: we spent hours scrolling through trying to decide whose hue we wanted to channel the most...Who to ask for: Natalia Nadolska. She somehow translates your vague descriptions of a hair colour you saw on Instagram into the perfect hue for you.Follow them on Instagram: @taylor_taylor_londonBlow dry from: £35
2 of 14Hair Lounge
Why we love it: This multi-award winning salon sits prettily on Portobello Road and specialises in afro and textured hair. Run by the legendary Charlotte Mensah and her team of incredible staff, Hair Lounge offers a comprehensive list of salon serves and is the dream destination for those on the lookout for the best of the best in terms of natural hair stying, micro braids and cane rows.What to ask for: Natural hair styling, from £85Follow them on Instagram: @charlottemensah
3 of 14Hershesons
Who goes here: A-listers like Sienna Miller and Keira Knightley as well as a seriously long list of fashion and beauty editors.Why we love it: Founder, Luke Hersheson is a regular backstage at fashion weeks and brings his runway expertise straight to the salon.Best for: A flawless fashion wave. Be sure to get a beauty treat while you are at it. There's everything from waxing to IPL laser removal and manicures.Who to ask for: Jason P for soft, beautiful balayage. Follow them on Instagram: @HershesonsBlow dry from: £35
4 of 14Larry King Hair Salon
Who goes here: Poppy Delevingne, Pixie Lott, David Beckham and David Gandy. Plus too many models to count...Why we love it: Its major décor – risk stepping into the baby pink toilets and not emerging for 15 mins or more in aid of the perfect selfie Best for: A brand new cut. Larry and his team's hair cutting expertise is phenomenal.Who to ask for: Larry or colourist Amy Fish. Her baby highlights are something of wonder. Follow them on Instagram: @LarryKingHairBlow dry from: £45
5 of 14Glasshouse Salon
Why we love it: After a trip to Glasshouse, you'll be a full convert to their eco-friendly haircare philosophy. All of the products you'll find here, from shampoos and treatments to dyes, are as natural as possible and don't compromise on results. Plus, what's not to like about an Instagram-friendly salon set up and an extensive menu of herbal teas? Best for: Whether you're after an icy Scandi blonde or something a little more vibrant, Glasshouse is our new go-to for fresh, modern colour. We'd also recommend the nourishing quinoa protein treatments, which leave hair feeling soft for weeks afterwards.Who to ask for: Senior stylist Mia gave new life to our reviewer's tired highlights.Follow them on Instagram: @glasshousesalonBlow dry from: £40
6 of 14Richard Ward Hair & Beauty Salon
Who goes here: Mr Ward's clientele includes the Duchess of Cambridge. Probably best not to expect her to swing by the salon, but Pippa Middleton, Liz Hurley and Sam Cam have all been spotted on site.Why we love it: It's set in the idyllic Duke of York Square in Chelsea, minutes from the King's Road. Pop out for some shopping after.Best for: Natural highlights and bouncy Chelsea blow dries.Who to ask for: Shelley Pedersen. She's a genius at recovering bad dye jobs and finding your perfect shade.Follow them on Instagram: @RichardWardHairBlow dry from: £30
7 of 14Hiro Miyoshi Hair & Beauty
Who goes here: Model Neelam Gill and the Made in Chelsea crowd.Why we love it: The salon is calm and oh so chic. We challenge you to turn off your phone while you're there.Best for: Their one-of-a-kind Nashi Filler Therapy Treatment, from £35, works to plump the hair shaft from within, for thicker, healthier swish.Who to ask for: Hiro Miyoshi himself. His wealth of knowledge blew our tiny minds. Plus his haircare line is excellent too.Follow them on Instagram: @HiroMiyoshiHairandBeautyBlow dry from: £45
8 of 14George Northwood
Who goes here: The fashion cool crew, aka Alexa Chung and Rachel Weisz.Why we love it: It's so relaxed it feels like you're getting your hair done in a seriously trendy sitting room.Best for: A cool, shaggy cut.Follow them on Instagram: @GeorgeNorthwoodBlow dry from: £35
9 of 14John Frieda Salon
Why we love it: It's speedy and the people watching is excellent.Best for: A fabulous yet affordable finish. We recommend their Fade Out treatment for those who wish to grow out highlights.Who to ask for: Nicola Clarke is a colour genius.Follow them on Instagram: @johnfreidasalonsBlow dry from: £60
10 of 14Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa
Why we love it: Each service comes with a wellness ritual using your chosen aroma and a head, neck and shoulder massage. Best for: The colour service menu is seriously extensive and includes balayage, tints and highlights. Who to ask for: Andre for a catwalk-worthy blow-dry. Follow them on Instagram: @AvedaUKBlow dry from: £40
11 of 14Hari’s Hairdressers
Why we love it: Because they have a snack menu as long as our arm. Tuna mayo on crackers, anyone?Best for: Styling. There are endless menus: Choose from countless blow dry styles.Who to ask for: If you're after a colour change, Salvador in the Parsons Green salon will do just the job. Follow them on Instagram: @harishairBlow dry from: £30
12 of 14Blue Tit London
Why we love it: When you walk into Bluetit, you can almost immediately tell that you're going to leave with a good hair cut. Why? There's just something about an aesthetically-pleasing space that always makes us instinctively trust the salon, and Bluetit is very easy on the eye. With a modern Scandi-esuqe feel, thanks to copper accents, wooden floors and rustic furniture, reading material from the likes of Heroine and 78-87 magazines, and a fridge stocked with beer and wine, there's a chilled out vibe that's perfect for settling any pre-haircut nerves. The salon uses Oway products, and can throw in a hair mask if your hair is damaged or dry, but the best part of the washing process is undoubtedly the little head massage, which is a rarity in many wash-and-go salons these days. Who to ask for: Christoph, the salon's wunderkind. Or pay a visit to the newest salon location in Greenwich headed up by Lee.Follow them on Instagram: @bluetitlondon
13 of 14Tatiana Karelina
Who goes here: Made In Chelsea fave Sophie Hermann. Best for: want a clip-in ponytail to make you feel as glam as Ariana Grande, or to copy Sophie's signature braid? Tatiana Karelina is the place to go. (Yes, Ari has even worn the hair extensions herself on tour! Talk about a seal of approval…) For more permanent extensions, the salon also offer micro ring extensions, which - as they don't use glue - means there's no damage to your hair. Oh, and the salon - located in Chelsea - is absolutely gorgeous, too. Who to ask for: Tatiana, who founded the salon, is a genius - but there's three salons: one in London, one in Manchester, and another in LA, if you happen to be across the pond. Follow them on Instagram: @tatianakarelinaofficial
14 of 14Simply Gorgeous Afro Hair Salon
Why we love it: This hair destination is family run business founded by Deborah Johnson and her mother. They offer braids, weaves, gel twists, cornrows, colour, cuts and treatments including relaxer at affordable prices. The services are exemplary and garner stellar reviews time and time again. If you're based in North London it's around the corner, if you're not, it's a salon that's well worth travelling for.What to ask for: Any of the above! Follow them on Instagram: @simplyg_hair