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When Rocketman, the new musical fantasy about the life of Elton John, debuted at Cannes, there were standing ovations and immediate five star reviews. Critics applauded the film’s script, its songs and, of course, the remarkable performance of its star Taron Egerton. But behind the scenes, there was a team working hard to make sure he and his co-stars looked the part, with Costume Designer Julian Day leading the charge to translate Sir Elton John’s iconic looks for the screen.
Working with Sir Elton was, he tells Grazia, a fascinating undertaking. “Elton came down for us to do a show-and-tell with him, where I showed him the concept designs, the drawings, the fabrics, to get his approval’, he explains. “What I really noticed was that he is a consummate professional, he lets other people do their jobs and doesn’t interfere. It was a really easy process, and I never felt daunted.”
The film, which charts Sir Elton’s rise to legendary status, required a lot of work. “It was a long arduous process”, says Julian. “We had 85 outfits, 40 or 50 pairs of shoes, 40 or 50 sunglasses, hats, jewellery, and the crystals obviously.”
The crystals were crucial: Sir Elton is, of course, known for his love of sparkles, sequins and big, bright ensembles. For one outfit, a bright orange devil costume worn throughout the film, Julian knew he would need to call in the specialists, and he enlisted Swarovski to ensure the ensemble came to life on camera. “The devil costume was the first one I designed for the whole film, he says. “We wanted the flames to be outrageous and flamboyant so it seemed like the perfect project for Swarovski. It took something like 240,000 crystals. Every single one of them was placed on by hand. We made it all in a week, with a team of ten working on it. It was down to the wire, but it looks spectacular.”
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Spectacular is the most appropriate word for Sir Elton, Julian explains. “He is iconic”, he says “He is hard to quantify. You can’t put him in a box. That’s why he’s so enduring. He is extraordinary in his clothes, but also so open about who he is. Elton dressed completely uniquely.”
Day, though, thinks Sir Elton’s way of dressing expresses very different aspects of his character. “He really, really loves clothes, and sometimes wore stuff to hide behind as well, to create a mask and a persona”, he tells us. “But you look at some of the things he wore, and the first thing you do is smile – you can’t help it. You watch his performances and they’re so larger than life and over the top. It’s a mad, cray time, and that goes with what he wore.”
Rocketman is is not the first time Julian has interpreted a rock icon: he also worked on last year’s Oscar-winning Freddie Mercury film Bohemian Rhapsody. “Elton has gone operatic and theatrical and overblown, and sometimes crazy. There are very few people like him. Freddie Mercury, and David Bowie is another one - who took their stagecraft and theatricality to another level. There are few people now who go that far.”
Perhaps Bowie, and his iconic Ziggy Stardust phase, could complete Julian’s trinity of stylish rock icons. He might want to get Swarovski on speed dial.
See below for all of the best looks from the 2019 Cannes Film Festival...
All The Best Looks From The 2019 Cannes Film Festival
1 of 44Marion Cotillard in Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Balmain
In a move nobody saw coming, Marion Cotillard served up a look we're calling Working From Home, But Make It Fashion. She wore a cropped jumper and matching shorts from Ludovic de Saint Sernin's A/W 2019 collection, while her kimono was Balmain Pre-A/W 2019
2 of 44Elle Fanning in Dior Haute Couture
Elle Fanning stole the show at the premiere of Once Upon a Time in Hollywood in a custom Dior look with a hat designed by Stephen Jones.
3 of 44Margot Robbie in Chanel Haute Couture
For the premiere of Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, Robbie wore a look from Chanel's SS11 Couture collection
4 of 44Deepika Padukone in Giambattista Valli Haute Couture
The actor wore an amazing Giambattista Valli Spring 2018 Haute Couture lime green gown on the red carpet. Padukone's Cannes outfits have been the talk of the town and, as she said to a reporter at the festival: "You either come here with a film or you slay on the red carpet."
5 of 44Priyanka Chopra, in Georges Hobeika Bridal and Nick Jonas in a white Berluti tuxedo
For the premiere of Les Plus Belles Annees D'Une Vie, Priyanka Chopra chose a bridal look from Georges Hobeika's Spring 2020 collection, while Nick Jonas wore a white tuxedo designed by Berluti
6 of 44Aja Naomi King in Zac Posen
US actor and L'Oréal ambassador Aja Naomi King looked resplendent in a tulle gown by Zac Posen
7 of 44Dame Helen Mirren in Elie Saab Haute Couture
For the premiere of Les Plus Belles Annees D'Une Vie, Dame Helen Mirren wore Elie Saab Haute Couture
8 of 44Bella Hadid in Roberto Cavalli Archive
For the premiere of Pain And Glory (Dolor Y Gloria/ Douleur Et Glorie), Bella Hadid plundered the Cavalli archives to find this red gown from the designer's Spring 2005 collection. It was also worn by Sharon Stone in 2013.
9 of 44Julianne Moore in Valentino
Moore chose a tiered sequin dress by Valentino for the photocall for The Staggering Girl
10 of 44Selena Gomez in Louis Vuitton
Selena Gomez pulled off a bold look in Louis Vuitton at the premiere of The Dead Don't Die, in which she made her debut Cannes apperance. The film stars Selena and Star Wars actor Adam Driver as the pair fight for survival when the undead begin to plague the sleepy town of Centerville.
11 of 44Julianne Moore in Dior
Julianne Moore looked raidiant in an emerald strapless gown, designed by Dior.
12 of 44Elle Fanning in Dior
Elle Fanning looked pretty as a picture in Dior at a jury photcall. The star has also defended her place on the panel alongside older critics, saying 'I feel proud to represent a young voice.'
13 of 44Tilda Swinton in Haider Ackermann
Tilda Swinton, who plays Zelda Winston, dazzled at the premiere of The Dead Don't Die in custom Haider Ackermann
14 of 44Romee Strijd in Etro
Former Victoria Secret Angel Romee Strijd looked angelic in a sheer lace Etro couture gown at the premiere of The Dead Don't Die.
15 of 44Elle Fanning in Gucci
Again, Elle showed her fashion credentials a jaw-dropping in pink Gucci dress.
16 of 44Chloë Sevigny in Mugler
Chloë Sevigny looked incredible as she chose a Mugler monochrome dress for the premiere of The Dead Don't Die.
17 of 44Amber Heard Claes Iversen Spring 2018 Couture
Amber Heard dazzles in a sheer Claes Iversen Spring 2018 Couture gown at the premiere of Les Miserables
18 of 44Alessandra Ambrosio in Julien Macdonald
Brazilian supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio wears Julien Macdonald.
19 of 44Li Yuchun in Balmain Haute Couture
Li Yuchun, otherwise known by her stage name Chris Lee, wore an amazing feather creation by Balmain Haute Couture to the premiere of Les Miserables
20 of 44Elle Fanning in Maison Valentino Haute Couture
Elle Fanning wore yet another show-stopper of a gown – this time Valentino Haute Couture – to a screening of Les Miserables.
21 of 44Shailene Woodley in Christian Dior Haute Couture
At the Rocketman premiere, Woodley wore a black cashmere coat with ivory satin lapels over a white shirt and black shorts, which was part of Dior's Spring 2019 Haute Couture collection
22 of 44Elle Fanning in Vivienne Westwood Couture
Elle Fanning continued to rule the Cannes 2019 red carpet scene at the Chopard party, where she wore a fuchsia couture gown by Vivienne Westwood
23 of 44Priyanka Chopra in Roberto Cavalli
Priyanka Chopra stole the red carpet on day three in this Roberto Cavalli strapless gown.
24 of 44Andie MacDowell in Maticevski Resort 2019
Andie MacDowell paired a top from Maticevski's Resort 2019 collection with a pair of checked, wide-leg trousers
25 of 44Bella Hadid in Dior
We're used to seeing Bella Hadid sampling some edgier looks on Instagram and the red carpet alike, but for the Rocketman premiere she opted for a delicate tiered gown by Dior
26 of 44Eva Longoria in Cristina Ottaviano
Eva Longoria wore an embroidered gold chainmail gown by Cristina Ottaviano on the red carpet
27 of 44Bryce Dallas Howard in Gucci
Rocketman star Bryce Dallas Howard won our hearts by opting for this previously owned floral Gucci dress, as part of her push to promote sustainability by wearing only consigned and previously owned pieces for the film's press tour.
28 of 44Julianne Moore in Givenchy Haute Couture
Julianne Moore dazzled in a Givenchy Haute Couture caped creation, accessorised with Chopard earrings
29 of 44Amber Heard in Johanna Ortiz
Amber Heard looked incredible in a silk fringed dress by Johanna Ortiz, which is still available to buy at Moda Operandi.
30 of 44Liya Kebede in Valentino
The model wore an amazing embroidered tulle gown from Valentino's Autumn/Winter 2019 collection
31 of 44Julianne Moore in Louis Vuitton
For the premiere of Les Miserables, Julianne Moore wore a custom black bustier dress with a leather cape fromLouis Vuitton's recent Resort 2020 show
32 of 44Deepika Padukone in Dundas
For the premiere of Rocketman, Deepika Padukone wore a voluminous silk taffeta gown complete with oversized bow, designed by Dundas
33 of 44Gwei Lun-Mei in Chanel Haute Couture
The Taiwanese actor wore Chanel Haute Couture to the premiere of The Wild Goose Lake
34 of 44Toni Garrn in Ralph & Russo Couture
At the premiere of Les Plus Belles Annees D'Une Vie, model Toni Garrn wore Ralph & Russo Couture from the Autumn/Winter 2018 collection
35 of 44Monica Bellucci in Dior
Monica Bellucci wore a navy Dior gown for the premiere of Les Plus Belles Annees D'Une Vie
36 of 44Camila Morrone in Miu Miu
The Argentine model and actor – and girlfriend to Leonardo DiCaprio – wore a dazzling Miu Miu gown on the Cannes red carpet
37 of 44Penelope Cruz in Chanel Haute Couture
For the premiere of Pain And Glory (Dolor Y Gloria/ Douleur Et Glorie), Penelope Cruz wore a Chanel Haute Couture dress
38 of 44Amber Heard in Elie Saab
Amber Heard wore a full look from the Elie Saab A/W 2019 catwalk for the premiere of Pain And Glory (Dolor Y Gloria/ Douleur Et Glorie)
39 of 44Li Yuchun in Gucci
For the premiere of Rocketman, Li Yuchun wore an incredible embellished dress by Gucci
40 of 44Léa Seydoux in Louis Vuitton
Seydoux wore a look from Louis Vuitton's 2020 Resort collection for the premiere of Oh Mercy! (Roubaix, une Lumiere)
41 of 44Camila Morrone in Miu Miu
Attending the premiere of Once Upon a Time in Hollywood alongside her boyfriend Leonardo DiCaprio, Morrone wore a strapless chiffon gown with marabou feather trim, designed by Miu Miu
42 of 44Dakota Fanning in Armani Privé
Fanning wore a beautiful Armani Prive couture gown to the premiere of Once Upon a Time in Hollywood
43 of 44Chloe Sevigny in Miu Miu
The actor chose a fuchsia mini dress by Miu Miu, complete with oversized bow on one shoulder
44 of 44Michelle Rodriguez in Rami Kadi
At the premiere of One Upon a Time in Hollywood, Rodriguez wore a dress from Rami Kadi's Spring 2019 Couture collection