I spent a day of my summer holiday last year holed up in bed with a thundering, biblical headache. There were flashing lights in my eyes, and my vision was blurry, making reading or even binging on the emotional comfort food of Queer Eye impossible. I went to bed at 5pm.
A disclaimer before you feel sorry for me, however: this was at the world-famous detox destination VivaMayr clinic, and exactly what I signed up for. Those monumental headaches were the result of ‘the cure’, as the detox programme is euphemistically known, kicking in.
An hour and a half’s drive from Salzburg (the original clinic, VIVAMAYR Maria Wörth, is a few hours away in Southern Carinthia, a province of Austria that borders Italy and Slovenia), the VivaMayr is nestled on pristine Lake Altaussee, shrouded by mountains. It’s a Disney version of rural Austria; the staff even wear dirndls, for heaven’s sake. But it’s not for those chocolate-box views that the glossy, global clientele check in. Regulars include entrepreneurs and art-world power brokers, finance tycoons and fashion players, politicians and yes celebrities (Rebel Wilson, who has been refreshingly honest and open about her health and weight loss journey this year, is the latest high-profile fan. On Instagram she credited the VivaMayr as the place that gave her 'Year of Health' its initial kickstart. 'If you want to boost your immune system, this is the place to be,' she wrote). All of them float around in white bathrobes; none of them get special treatment. It’s strict.
Who goes to VivaMayr – and why?
The question is – what motivates these guests to swap cocktails for colonics, and use their downtime not being preened and pampered but embarking on this notoriously rigorous detox? Because come they do, in their droves, for issues relating to chronic pain, irritable bowels, exhaustion, and the ravaging side effects of steroids and chemotherapy. The Viva Mayr also promises to be a tonic for a smorgasbord of niggling modern malaises; if you’re over-worked, over-stressed, over-tired, just generally over it, the clinic promises to revive, regenerate and restore.
And as for me? I was feeling tired, sluggish, and moodier than my 14-year old self. I got sober five years ago, and when I put down the drink and drugs, I found a whole bunch of other pesky addictions – sugar, caffeine (six coffees a day, hence my body giving me a little payback via the brutal headaches), nicotine – ready to take their place. One staff member told me sugar was harder to give up than cocaine; from my experience that’s completely true.
But even more than that, emotionally I was craving a complete reboot. The two months before I went were unbearably shattering: some tragic news had rocked my family to the core and I was still dealing with the fallout of a breakup the previous year (newsflash: the particular, poignant pain of an ex moving on before you do is made no less acute by context). I wanted to rest and reset. I wanted to cleanse. I wanted a Mayr overhaul.
What actually happens on a detox?
The ‘Mayr cure’ was developed 100 years ago by Austrian physician Dr Franz Xaver Mayr, who believed that overeating and a bad diet are the root of many modern afflictions. We are poisoning ourselves by consuming the wrong things, which our bodies then struggle to expel. The fundamental principle of the cure is that you can improve someone’s overall health by improving their digestion. You’ll hear a lot of talk about the gut at the hotel.
But what actually happens at the Mayr? ‘Don’t they starve you?’ my friends all asked before I went. Ish. Believing that fasting gives the body a chance to rest, ‘meals’ are miniscule – or, sometimes, just vegetable broth. Dining is a Spartan experience; you are encouraged to eat in silence, with phones and books strongly discouraged from the dining room so you can focus on chewing, which here is the main event. One of the key tenets of Mayr philosophy is that you chew each mouthful between 40 and 60 times. This aids digestion but also means those Borrower servings last a lot longer than you might expect. Needless to say, coffee, sugar and alcohol are out.
The Mayr feels more like a utopian hospital than a five-star spa. Indeed, you meet with a doctor daily, and each person’s schedule, vitamin prescriptions and diet are uniquely tailored to the individual, based on their medical examination and blood test results. But there are some things remain the same for everyone: rancid Epsom salt water is consumed every morning to flush out your intestines (you will quickly become accustomed to toilet talk with fellow guests), alkalising ‘base powder’ is taken several times a day to counter the effects of an acid diet, rest and early nights are strongly advised, as are herbal teas and litres of water. My schedule also included oxygen training, nutritional coaching, detoxifying massages, electrolysis footbaths and mud wraps designed to draw out toxins.
Is it worth the pain (and the toilet talk?)
Needless to say the Mayr experience is no pampering juices-and-manicures detox. It’s hardcore. But is it hard though? Well, yes and no. Yes, in that a proper, thorough detox has painful early stages: headaches, nausea, back pains, lethargy. But no, in that for the guests – many of who live coddled lives back in the real world – the discomfort is a price worth paying. Weather those testing early days and the effects are liberating. By day four I had one of the most luxurious, solid night’s sleep I’d had in years; by day five I sprung out of bed at five and went for a (gentle) jog around the lake.
Understandably, everyone talks about what the Mayr does for your body but the experience is also emotionally beneficial. There is something liberating about stripping your life back to a minimal framework. To be undistracted, even a little bored, can be a novel luxury. Even that strict diet helps free up your mind; I’d wager I’m not the only one who’s used sugar/alcohol/coffee as a diversion technique. Sure, you can’t get a cheeseburger on room service, but there is a lavish indulgence to having time.
Visiting VivaMayr on my own, which gave me the perfect chance to take stock and reflect. (Anyway, you never really feel alone at the Mayr. There’s an almost cultish unity as fellow guests feel compelled to share their progress with you. And it’s perfect for a solo traveler, all those bathroom breaks hardly set the right ambience for a romantic trip a deux). I deleted Instagram for the week, I took solitary walks, I meditated (honestly), and I went to bed really, really early. I may also have taken my Juul on a couple of those walks around the lake, which obviously is not advised – but nobody’s perfect, right?
VivaMayr{
Read more below on the best AirBnBs in the UK...
The Best AirBnBs In The UK - Grazia (Slider)
Piper House, Stamford
Quite literally a big hose in the country. It's a converted granary with enough space to sleep you and 15 of your nearest and dearest. There is also a tennis court if you and your mates are that way inclined. £380 per night
An Cala, Cairngorms National Park
Down the river amongst the trees in the Cairngorms National Park you'll find a cottage with a hot tub and open fires. The stuff of rustic, autumn getaway dreams. Sleeps 10, but you'll probably be just as tempted to go it alone. £250 per night
Boutique Houseboat, Cambridge
Here's a little evidence of how nice houseboats can be. We're talking hard wood flooring throughout and a private garden with decking for when you want to come up for air. Only enough room for you and a luck someone I'm afraid. But intimate is good too...£115 per night
Thornton Castle Tower, Aberdeenshire
Because why would you not want to live in a castle for a few days? IRL Disney Princesses rejoice, because you can (voluntarily) be locked (with the key) in this cute castle tower up in Aberdeenshire. £115 per night
Alpha, East Sussex
If you're all about the view this gem down in East Sussex might be a shout. 'Alpha' fits seven guests, is on a nameless, private road in the middle of a nature reserve and I'd pay the place a visit purely for the underfloor heating. £400 per night
Great Long Barn, Somerset
If you and your mates have been looking for an excuse to visit West Buckland, here it is. Quite simply it's a barn conversion, but a beautiful barn conversion suitable for all fun-times. The most exciting bit is that you can ask for two of the beautiful dogs to be part of the booking too!£900 per night
Butley Priory, Suffolk
Creepiness aside, it's be pretty damn cool to be able to say you've slept in an Abbey. Great conversation material, right here in Suffolk. Sleeps 15 with five baths to share between you all. £600
St Pancras Clock Tower, London
Question: is there any point visiting London without sleeping inside the clock tower at St Pancras station? Answer: yes, obvs. But you and your pals could be some of the few who can say that this is what they did, though. It get's booked up really far in advance though so move quickly if you fancy it. £158 per night
Here Be Dragons, Westhall
You could go for any old room in any old establishment, or you could stay in a room in the fairytale house with an iron dragon perched on top of it. Just saying.£295 per night
Dairsie Castle, Fife
Another castle for the wannabe princesses out there. It's entirely self catered, so no chance of the cutlery and crockery from Beauty and the Beast popping in to serve tea. But on the plus side you're only an hour away from Edinburgh if you get bored of the medieval vibes. £550 per night
AirShip 002, Drimnin Highlands
You read that right: AirShip 002 is yours for the sleepin'. It's an insulated aluminum pod with all the standard amenities with the addition of a huge fishbowl type view of the Scottish coastline. £150 per night
Old Smock Windwill, Kent
Who knew windmills could be romantic? Because apparently they can be. You'd have beautiful and dramatic views of the Kent countryside inside a three-floor fully restored windmill where you'll also be left a basket of fresh eggs from the owner's chickens when you arrive. What a treat. £175 per night
Cosy Country House, Crawley
This is a cuter version of the sort of place that I imagine relatives of the Made In Chelsea cast to own. It's where they go and frolic in the summer and play rounders and touch rugby and drink mimosas in between country walks. You could live that life for a weekend... £225 per night
St. Benedict's Abbey, Loch Ness
Another Abbey, but this time with an indoor heated pool for you to enjoy/pose by. You'd be staying in a self catering that's part of the wider holiday home known as The Highland Club and for where you'd be staying the price is pretty reasonable. £72 per night
Riverside Cabin, Constantine
Quaint cabin in the woods anywhere? It's very cosy and was quite literally hand built with wood from the surrounding forrest. There's also an outdoor fire pit for marshmallows and stuff. £55
Scandinavian Lodge, Cornwall
Fancy the Scandi but can't make it out to the Nordics? Don't worry you can get a similar type of vibe in Cornwall, don't you know? Well, kind of. Six people can go stay at this beautiful hot tub boasting lodge on the side of a big hill. £200 per night
Tree Sparrow House, Cornwall
See here: the treehouse of dreams. It's got those endearing countryside vibes but is also super lose to the sea in Cornwall's Lizard Peninsula. The shower isn't located in your cabin, but the naked trek through the greenery is probs worth it.£110 per night
Rockaway, Temple Cloud
You'll really be immersing yourself in another world with this one. Beyond your private room and out in the Rockaway grounds you'll find a vegetable garden and a scrapyard/quarry thing a little outside the site boarders. You'd be staying in a family home but look how incredible that inside-outside conservatory.
Blue House On The Beach
The view from the bed, you guys. THE VIEW FROM THE BED! Can you imagine waking up to anything more beautiful (and in England, for that matter)? Down in Camber you need to find a way to stay at this house that's quite literally on the beach. Enough space for eight which'll lessen the financial blow and did we mention the view from the bed?