Bulgaria is a puzzle. Despite offering everything you like on a summer holiday, it’s rarely a part of the conversation when we discuss where we’re going to spend two weeks sweating in August.
Well time has come to change this, and if you follow our guide you’ll have two brilliant weeks in the city, the mountains and by the beach. And the best thing of all? Damn, the place is cheap. If you’re backpacking you can live on £10-£15 a day. And that’s including accommodation, factoring in a couple of meals and a bottle of the vino that the country does so well.
Days 1- 4: Sofia
Circumvented by Balkan Mountains on one side and the Vitosha Mountains on other, Sofia is one of the most artfully-framed urban areas in Europe. Down in the city itself you’ll find a curious mix of tatty sprawl, Communist architecture and frantic development as the city tries to catch up with the rest of Europe.
If you’re after big nights out and bigger churches, then Sofia is the one. Our tip though? Stay for a few days at most, then do one.
Stay
Hostel Mostel - From 12 Euros PP/PN, and without doubt one of the country’s top hostels.
Do
The Museum Of Socialist Art- mostly for the outdoor park full of old Communist relics, including a huge statue of Lenin. It doesn’t have a sign though. Or, uhm, a website. Useful. Trip Advisor it is.
Party
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This two level crypt is a magnet for the city’s bohemian scene, and won’t be on any of the bar tours on offer at Mostel.
Days 4-7 Plovdiv
It’s two hours by bus from Sofia to Plovdiv; one of the oldest cities in Europe, dating back to 400-odd BC. It’s so old it makes Canterbury look like Hong Kong.
Mainly stick to the Old Town, where the Antique Roman amphitheater is the main attraction and still occasionally hosts productions. Plovdiv is a sleepy sort of place, there’s not loads to do but wander the old streets that still bask in dusty Roman grandeur. Potter in the many artist’s shops. Find some 40s of Kamenitza beer. (They’ll cost you about 50p.) Go to Stefan Stambolov Square. Drink them, get a tan. Be nice to the locals. Glory days.
Stay
Hiker’s Hostel is bang in the middle of the Old Town, and if you want to reach the pinnacle of Bulgarian hospitality, you will find it here in the form of owner Tosha. From 7E, PP/PN.
Do
Plovdiv has seven hills. At the north end of the Old Town is Nebet Tepe, which’ll get you sweating before offering a vast cityscape joining the mountains in the distance.
Party
The
is a rickety sort of place that attracts the city’s hip kids and many students. If you want to meet people for random nights out that finish on strange floors, start here.
Days 7- 11…Veliko Tarnovo
We’re gonna go there and say that Veliko Tarnovo (or VT) is the best place on this trip. Set in the valley of the river Yantra, Bulgaria’s third biggest city is a mountain oasis and well-known spot on the backpacker trail.
Picture box houses are shuffled into the sides of the mountain like cards in a deck and, other than the main high street, you will walk everywhere in a stylish timewarp of small cobbled streets, artisan shops and local tabernas. There’s also a plethora of hikes long and small to shake out the previous night’s Merlot.
Stay
Hiker’s Hostel - Run by the same owners as the Plodiv hostel and no, we’re not on the take. The views from here are incredible, it’s even got a hammock room which looks over the rolling, picture book peaks of the Sredna Gora mountains. Plans? Forget about them. From 7E PP/PN
Do
The Tsarevets Fortress dominates the VT landscape. Built sometime between the 5th and 7th centuries, it played home to the medieval tsars that rule from there. There’s a pretty laissez-faire attitude to health and safety, so careful when you’re ambling over its many walls, steps and rocks. Make sure you check out the Church at the top too- the artwork in there is more grim Shoreditch graffiti than garish Bulgarian Orthodox.
Party
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all in the name. Very student-friendly.
Days 11-14…Varna
Bulgaria’s most famous seaside resort is Sunny Beach; a kinda Magaluf for the Baltics, which is the country’s most popular destination for English people. Obviously you don’t want to go there, but instead get to Varna which is about three hours from VT.
You’ll mainly find Russians on holiday, and in places it veers a bit close to seaside tack but is always 10 steps shy of Blackpool. Try some of the amazing, unusual fish as well (Sea Wolf, anyone?).
Stay
By now you’ll have spent 10 nights in hostels, and be dreaming of private rooms. The Valdin Hostel Apartment will ensure you can dispense with ear plugs for the home stretch of your trip. From 8E PP/PN
Do
Obviously the beach, and you can easily lose an afternoon in Primorski Park, but well worth a look is Warship Druzki. A relic from the First Balkan War, it’s parked next to the Naval Museum and though the latter is only so-so, you can actually get onboard the Druzki and nose about. Tip: the guards won’t think you and your mates wearing sailor’s hats is cute.
Party
We went to beach
on the seafront and its mojito was better than average which is better than normal for Bulgarian cocktails. (Sorry guys, love the rest of your work.)
Insider info
The food in Bulgaria is great, especially if you are a fan of grilled meats, rich stews and salads, but remember two things. 1- their portions are big. Like Vegas big. 2- they bring the food out when they want. You’ll get used to starters coming out with mains or mains coming out 10 minutes apart. Don’t bother complaining, just go with the flow. Good job they’re big enough to share.
Oh, and they have salad for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Shopska salad. Tomato, cucumber, onion and feta-like cheese. You’ll get used to it. You’ll put on weight. You’ll get used to that as well.
Get the buses everywhere. They are so cheap, and run with an efficiency that puts our own to shame. Best thing is just to go to the station the day before you are going to find the times, or ask at your hostel.
Never, ever, say no if someone offers you a rakia (fruit brandy). And in the name of the love of your long-suffering mother, never suggest rakia origins from anywhere other than Bulgaria. No joke. Your boobs will be on that night’s BBQ.
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Fun Stuff For Under £50 To Do In The UK This Summer If You Can’t Afford A Holiday
Follow David on Twitter @Gobshout
This article originally appeared on The Debrief.