Our first glimpse of Victoria Falls came from the air, which was unsurprising, when you think about it. After all, it would take some dizzying aeronautical skill on the part of our pilot if he’d somehow managed to avoid it - it’s not only the widest waterfall in the world at 1.7 kilometres but is also considered the largest, knocking famous rival Niagara from the top spot. Relatively new, the Victoria Falls Airport only opened in 2016, with the $150 million investment catering to the influx of tourists coming to the area to tick this natural wonder off their bucket list. From here, we drove the 20-minute journey through the town to Victoria Falls Safari Club, one of five properties from Africa Albida Tourism. With a teeny population of just 40,000 people, Victoria Falls is entirely geared around tourism, with most locals working in the industry, and the main road littered with gift shops and tour operators. Indeed, the majority of the staff at the Club and neighbouring Victoria Falls Lodge are all ‘Zimbos’, as is the security guard who greets you in tribal dress when you arrive. The main reception building overlooks miles of vast plains, where you can spot a warthog and her three piglets grazing nearby, or a lone elephant visiting the watering hole, unimpeded by walls or windows. Indeed, you can see more of these than you would have been able to previously, with the hotel working with local anti-poaching groups, with 20,000 snares removed so far. It’s an interior design fan’s dream, with an emphasis on local artworks and artisans, and major inspo in the form of cheetah-print cushions and stacks of coffee table tomes on Zimbabwean wildlife: everything screams ‘safari’ in the least cheesy way possible.
The Room
The 20 luxury rooms share similar views to the reception, with varying degrees of visibility on the watering hole AKA where all the action goes down. Featuring an open-plan bedroom, private bathroom and balcony, these suites are a spacious upgrade of the ones down the road at the Lodge, which is Africa Albida’s oldest property. The decor for the large part is chic and simple - from the brick walls painted white to the wicker chairs and raffia floor matt - although there are vibrant flourishes in the tribal bedside lamps, upholstery and pillows, as well as the local artworks on the walls. Toiletries are made in-house by the hotel using all natural ingredients, while thoughtful touches include the after sun, insect repellant and laundry powder for hand-washing.
What We Did
On our first night, we were introduced to Zimbabwe’s wildlife in one of the most magical ways possible, with a river cruise on the Zambezi organised by Wild Horizons (and no, that’s not the exhaustion from the combination of two flights totalling 12 hours talking…) We were greeted on arrival by a group of local singing and dancing tribesman (something which became a common theme), before embarking on a two-hour trip up and down the river, even crossing into Namibia at one point (do you think that means we can cross it off our countries to visit list?) all while enjoying bottomless drinks and canapes, not to mention a hippo sighting or two. Animals box ticked, we headed off on a walking tour of the Victoria Falls the next day, getting suitably soaked at the appropriate moments. Up close, the power and majesty of this natural wonder are undeniable, with the reasoning behind the local name Mosi-oa-Tunya, which translates as ‘The Smoke That Thunders’ becoming all too clear. You can see even more if you book onto a Bonisair helicopter ride, which will help put the sheer scale of the thing into perspective during the 15-minute flight. Extra-curricular activities-aside, there is also plenty to do at the hotel itself too, and we’re not just talking about the swimming pool or the soon-to-be-built spa. One of our highlights of the trip was the so-called ‘Vulture Culture’ experience, which takes place daily at the Lodge. Jokingly dubbed a ‘restaurant’ by guide Zulu, it is essentially meal time at the zoo, and sees hundreds of vultures - an endangered and protected species in Zimbabwe - descending to eat their lunch. Indeed, the programme runs so much like clockwork, that the birds hover from 1pm onwards, awaiting their grub. While you watch these oft-maligned creatures fill their tummies, you learn about why programmes like this one are so important, as they hope to change perceptions of what vultures are like in the public consciousness. It is just one example of the eco-conscious work being done by Africa Albida.
What We Ate
The Club restaurant is helmed by a former soldier who cut his teeth in Cape Town’s famous eateries, with the menu featuring local dishes like elland steak as well as haute cuisine staples like smoked salmon. Despite its far-flung, remote-feeling location, everything on the menu could just have easily have been ordered in London, with presentation being particularly impressive and Insta-friendly, too. Originally focussing on dinner, the hotel has recently expanded to offer a lunch option too, with guests formerly eating as part of their Wild Horizons tours or up at the Lodge. There’s also a complimentary afternoon tea daily, plus sundowners included too. If you’re keen to experience something a little different however, you simply must visit the Boma dinner and drum show. On arrival you’ll be wrapped up in a local sarong and daubed in face paint, before being shown to your table for the buffet. Considering its a brai (that’s BBQ to the uninitiated) there’s an impressive selection of salads and other dishes, although we do recommend partaking in the warthog steak (we’re sorry Pumba). For afters, you’ve got plenty of puddings on offer, as well as the piece de la resistance - the drum show, which you’ll be given a drum for. Ostensibly an interactive experience, you can actually get as involved as you want - whether that’s taking the lead in the drum show or the finale dance-off circle, or getting told your future by the fortune teller. It’s a unique experience and one we would definitely recommend as a comparison to the more refined dinner at the Club.
How To Book
Nightly rates at Victoria Falls Safari Club start from US$248/ £177* per person per night on a Bed and Breakfast basis in Green Season 2018. Prices include breakfast daily; complimentary shuttle service to Victoria Falls town and Rainforest; complimentary wi-fi; complimentary mini-bar re-stocked daily with local beer and soft drinks, house wine and bottled water; complimentary laundry; complimentary afternoon tea and complimentary sundowner cocktails and canapés.