It’s 9pm on a fairly uneventful Thursday evening at Euston station. While many people are sour-faced still waiting to do their commute, I’m here in anticipation of something altogether more exciting: the Caledonian Sleeper train. In just under nine hours I’ll be waking up in bonny Scotland – Leuchars, the station for St Andrews, to be exact – after hopefully sleeping through the night in the comfort of my own First Class berth. Thought the golden age of travel was over? Think again.
Sleeper trains conjure up images of halcyon days of times gone by, when you travelled with a matching set of designer suitcases, dressed-up for the journey and mingled with other passengers in the dining cart. They also, for me and my friends, conjure up nightmarish memories of overnight journeys across Europe and Asia, where comfort was lacking and safety was the main concern. So, discovering that you can get to pretty much anywhere in Scotland from London overnight, with the choice of three different classes of travel, was very exciting. To be honest, I might have planned a trip to St Andrews regardless just to experience it for myself.
Now, I’ve always loved trains. Maybe it’s something to do with my fear of flying, or the association I have with them of going home after terms at university, or visiting friends in new cities, but I’ve never had any complaints when it comes to rail travel. Taking the Trans-Siberian railway from St Petersburg to Moscow was a major highlight of my school trip to Russia, while last year I went to Birmingham just to travel back down past London to Ascot just to experience the luxury Pullman (it was worth it). So, I was understandably excited about my Caledonian Sleeper adventure – and what an adventure it was.
After briefly using the First-Class lounge at Euston (to stock up on mixers, shh!) I boarded the train. I was greeted by my very friendly, very Scottish host, who showed me to my berth, explaining how to control the various lights, temperature and window blinds, and also took my breakfast order (smoked salmon and scrambled eggs) and wake-up call time (5.15am, ouch!). Then, I settled in for the night.
Although compact, the room really does have everything you might need for a comfy night’s sleep. There’s a small single bed, fitted with sheet, duvet and two fluffy pillows, as well as a wash basin with vanity kit comprising body wash, moisturiser, flannel and towel, plus a sleep set with a rather fresh smelling pillow mist. You can charge your phone via the USB point, and keep your stuff hung up if you’re travelling on business. My favourite thing was probably the manual explaining how to get a good night’s sleep – I read it cover to cover (it was two pages) and think it helped me catch some much-needed ‘zs’. This is all the same for the second-class berth, too, except there’s a bunk bed instead, and someone else sharing with you.
I woke up after a night of fairly uninterrupted kip to see the sun was already rising in Scotland and quickly ate my breakfast so I could go and watch the rolling countryside hurtling past me. I didn’t have time to visit the dining cart on the route out, but I made a point of spending some time there on my return journey. It’s spacious and comfy, with places to relax or eat and drink, depending on what you’re after. After disembarking, I was greeted by Graeme from St Andrews Golf Travel, another thoroughly friendly gent who drove me into St Andrews (the company partners with the Caledonian Sleeper to offer a free chauffeur service into the city).
Three days later, and I was back, and even though I was very sad to be leaving Scotland, I couldn’t deny that I was looking forward to another great night’s sleep. Next year, the Caledonian is rolling out major improvements to its trains – including adding en suite toilet and shower facilities, plus wifi – which just means I’ll have to book another ticket to try it out…
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