A Plus Size Model’s Letter To Fashion Week By Tess Holliday

‘We need to think about people who are left out in the industry.’

Tess Holliday

by Tess Holliday |
Updated on

'The first time I went toNew York fashion week, back in 2016, I actually walked in a show. It was a really diverse moment because there were queer people, women of colour, all shapes and sizes and heights and races. Then when I came back the next season I was shocked. We all know that fashion hasn’t been the best at being diverse but I was coming off of such a high that I was let down.

I’ve attended shows with designers, where I am sitting front row, and they carry some plus sizes but no one on the runway was passed a size 2. I think it’s all well and good for a fashion house to create a custom piece for someone my size, but you need to also be making those sizes for all women. It makes me feel bummed, but I’m no longer surprised.

We need to think about people who are left out in the industry. We need to put our money where our mouths are and buy from brands that cater to what the actual world looks like. It is not enough to have diverse models just on the catwalk, we need brands to use diverse models in their campaigns and online, on retail sites, in their marketing and in their language and verbiage when they are debuting their collections. There is a lot of work to be done.

At this point, with all the progress we’ve made and how loud people, especially people on social media can be in championing brands that are inclusive and diverse, you would think that fashion week designers would realize they are missing out on a huge market and that that is what consumers want to see. But they’re not. Lots are still making clothing for who their desired customer looks like to them. It’s frustrating, but at this point, it’s just expected and I just roll my eyes because I think that they could do better.

Obviously, as a [US] size 22 model I am seeing more diversity but it’s maybe only one per cent out of all the designers that are showing that use plus-size models. Some big designers will use one plus-size model, or feature plus-size models in one show, but as far as high fashion like couture goes, you’re not seeing plus-size models walk the runway. I have seen changes but when you’re sitting front row at a size inclusive designer I rarely see anyone else my size wearing the designer’s clothing. It’s frustrating.

Things are changing. Brands are becoming conscious of who they book. I am proof as I’ve had a successful modelling career for nine years now. But there is still some tokenism. Using plus-size women isn't justification to think a brand is diverse. You can use someone in a campaign and to walk the runway but we need to be asking, ‘what are you actually doing to change things after that?’

Consumers and social media is our greatest asset and also sometimes our worst enemy. People are vocal now, they keep brands and designers accountable. They are how I know things will keep progressing.

Fashion, clothing, style…it should all be inclusive. Art is inspired by the world around us, and the world around us is so diverse so fashion, clothing and style should reflect the world around us too. I would like to think that we’re all in this together. Fashion is a community and what we’re seeing affects all of us so representation is important.'

This article was conducted as an interview and edited and condensed by the Grazia team.

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