Bubbling beneath the surface of the furore surrounding President Trump’s first state visit to the UK this week were discussions regarding Melania’s wardrobe. The timing of the Trumps’ visit is politically fraught: Theresa May is about to step down as Prime Minister; the President broadcast his opinions about who he thought should be her successor before he even boarded Air Force One from the White House to London, and protests as to their presence in the UK are planned across the country. Meanwhile in the US, the fire around Trump’s collusion with Russia and apparent impending impeachment is ramping up. In the context of all of this, just what would she pack?
We all know clothes make a statement. And Melania is no stranger to utilising such sartorial messages to make herself heard. Remember last June when she went to meet migrant children in one a Texas detention centre, wearing a Zara jacket emblazoned with ‘I Don’t Really Care, Do U?’?
If clothing is Melania’s voice, especially when standing in silence beside (or behind) her husband — the fake news merchant — then what can we decipher from the Gucci dress she chose to board the plane? Decorated with patterns that mimicked London landmarks, including Big Ben, The Tower of London and the Houses of Parliament, the dress could be read as an olive branch — a patriotic symbol of respect for America’s closest ally. Or could such nationalism be read as a pro-Brexit statement? After all, Trump had just gone on air to suggest Britain should leave without a deal, before offering Britain a “phenomenal trade deal” with America once we exit the EU. Truth or fake news, only time will tell.
Upon landing, Melania switched into a Burberry medal print pussybow blouse and a pencil skirt — so far, the shirt is the only item by a British brand she has worn. This was her most business-appropriate and modest look so far — an outfit similar in vein to the sartorial formula sported by Meghan Markle, and one that wouldn’t look out of place in City offices across the capital. It didn’t detract attention from Donald in his same navy blue ill-fitting suit — perhaps that was the point.
The figure-hugging Dolce & Gabbana dress with matching boater hat, meanwhile, demanded attention. The custom-made hat — white with a wide navy ribbon — appeared to pay homage to an outfit worn by Princess Diana to a VE Day event in 1995. It wouldn’t be the first time Flotus has plagiarised. In 2016, her speech at the Republican National Convention was noted on Twitter to be remarkably similar to Michelle Obama’s 2008 speech at the Democratic equivalent.
But Melania’s wardrobe to me often feels a little bit like dress up. The white Dolce outfit felt a little Pretty Woman, in the same way her safari outfit during last year’s African tour looked like she was in fancy dress as a colonialist. Add to that the fact that Dolce & Gabbana have come under much fire of late forcontroversial statements and seemingly insensitive ad campaignsand it seems like an interesting choice. Why court controversy? Why not avoid a designer who has recently been accused of perpetuating racist stereotypes? While no woman should be torn down over her wardrobe, it is a curious decision when Melania must only be too aware of how scrutinised her choice of clothing will be. Perhaps she is yet to properly settle into her role as First Lady, what with her husband’s constant indiscretions making it all the more complicated. Perhaps to her — the former Playboy cover star and model — the whole experience of being in the White House feels a bit like role play. The fact that Melania chose a red Givenchy dress to host a dinner for Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall was also questioned by many who felt it was a conscious choice in relation to her husband's recent comments about Meghan Markle. The Duchess of Sussex is now inextricably linked to the French fashion house after its designer, Clare Waight Keller, designed her wedding dress. But perhaps this was just coincidence?
The real star of the state tour wardrobe, however, is Ivanka. The firstborn daughter of Trump and his first wife Ivana, Ivanka is arguably the child who has lost the most credibility during her father’s three years in office. Her namesake fashion line was shelved by major department stores during the anti-Trump backlash — she shuttered the formerly successful brand last July.
Keen to stand out and make an impression of her own, on her first day in Britain, it’s estimated her wardrobe of new outfits for day one — that included a powder blue Carolina Herrera gown, a white skirt suit by Alessandra Rich, a Philip Treacy hat and crystal-encrusted Manolos — cost in the region of $14,000. Melania, meanwhile, re-wore a Celine trench coat to 10 Downing Street (a wardrobe habit regularly employed by members of the royal family).
Ivanka’s gowns — trimmed with sequin embellishments — are deliberately ostentatious. Was her one-shoulder white fitted gown an attempt to symbolise innocence and likeability, especially in the context of the Trump family dramas? It should also be noted that there is an abundance of white on this tour — from Ivanka’s peplum-hemmed blazer suit by Alessandra Rich to Melania’s white Dior column gown worn at Buckingham Palace, accessorised with white gloves.
White is the symbol of freedom, of peace, of surrender. It’s also a colour worn at significant political moments by Michelle Obama and Hilary Clinton, who famously wore a white trouser suit throughout her campaign, running against Trump. At the state dinner held at Buckingham Palace on Monday, the Queen, Duchess of Cambridge and the Duchess of Cornwall all wore white. Michelle Obama wore white to the same event during Obama’s presidency. But wearing the colour of the Suffragettes seems slightly misplaced when worn by the Trumps — especially in the context of the anti-abortion laws rippling through America right now. That white Dior dress — and Ivanka’s white one-shoulder gown — are just additional examples of how the Trumps’ misplaced fashion guidance is forever making them a sartorial faux pas.