Having to deal with crows' feet AND spots simply isn't fair - yet more and more women (who don't have One Direction posters on their walls) are developing adult acne. We know - yet another horrible trend from your teenage years that's come back to haunt you, just like flatforms. We spoke to leading facialist Sarah Chapman on how to say sayonara to spots for good...
Grazia Daily: First things first, why do some of us still get acne in adulthood?
Sarah Chapman: "There are many factors associated with adult acne and the causes can be extremely varied, including stress or hormonal changes like menopause, medication, diet and lifestyle or genetics."
GD: If you’ve never had acne in your life can you suddenly get it in adulthood? If so, why?
SC: "Yes, you can and it can be upsetting to deal with this and wrinkles at the same time. Acne is caused when follicles become blocked due to sebaceous glands over-producing sebum. The excess sebum mixes with dead skin cells and debris, clogging up the follicles and in turn, bacteria that naturally live on the skin contaminate these clogged follicles, causing papules, pustules, nodules or cysts. This can happen at any time to anyone, but adult acne is far more common in women (as much as 80% of cases) than in men, often due to hormonal changes, pregnancy and even Polycystic Ovary Syndrome."
GD: What can we do around the time of our period to prevent breakouts?
SC: "There are no quick fixes to preventing a hormonal breakout but there are things you can do to lessen their severity. Look at your diet. Although studies are yet to prove a link between junk food and acne, a healthy diet will work to nourish and improve the overall health of your skin. Clean skin is healthy skin so don’t scrimp on your cleansing routine. Thoroughly cleanse twice a day to prevent a build up of debris and sebum and replace your pillow cases and face cloths regularly to avoid bacterial build up. Make sure you always use clean make up brushes and sponges too."
GD: What product ingredients should we look out for to help with problem skin?
SC: "Vitamin A can be really effective in treating adult acne as it works to regenerate and heal the skin rapidly at a cellular level, acting as an excellent wrinkle fighter but also balancing sebum production and gently exfoliating to help prevent blocked pores. Salicylic acid is also a good one to look out for. This organic acid works like a corkscrew deep into the pores, driving out debris and congestion."
GD: What is the best on-the-spot treatment for when we have the odd break out?
SC: "My Spot Stickers (£22.00) are great for the odd breakout. Invisible and hygienic, these little patches are infused with potent active ingredients, like salicylic acid and P-Refinyl® that release over time to beat breakouts into submission. They brilliantly decongest, soothe, reduce redness and fast-forward blemish recovery. And, crucially, they prevent you picking and spreading bacteria."
GD: In your opinion, is it best to streamline your skincare routine and use fewer, more targeted products?
SC: "I always believe that you have to listen to your skin. What you need in your routine today won’t necessarily be what you need next month or even next week. Certainly aim to use targeted products to deliver the results you need. Be careful not to miss out on moisturiser as often your skin can be dehydrated when suffering from oil breakouts."
GD: How important is sustaining your skincare routine? Does swapping and changing products on a regular basis cause skin to flare up?
SC: "I think sustaining your routine is very important, in the literal sense of the term routine. Always cleanse morning and night, feed and support your skin with a serum and never forget to protect it with an advanced moisturiser and SPF. Having said that, I believe changing the products themselves in order to target your specific skin needs is all the better."
GD: Should you aim to avoid fragranced skincare and make-up when you’re having a break out?
SC: "Some people react to fragrance, some to essential oils, but some essential oils can be beneficial so if you haven’t had a problem before I wouldn’t feel it necessary to avoid them. If you can go without make up, do so, but if makeup is required, try to stick to mineral make up and DON’T use long wear make up."
GD: Is it possible to eat your skin better? If so, what foods to eat and why?
SC: "Fresh whole foods, particularly dark leafy greens will help support the skin as they are naturally rich in Vitamins A and C, bioflavonoids and beta-carotene. Vitamin C is also a super antioxidant which will help boost your immune system and ensure blemishes heal properly. Don’t be afraid of fats - essential fatty acids like Omega-3 and Omega-6 found in fish like mackerel and salmon help reduce inflammation. Foods rich in B Vitamins like brown rice, act as your skin's stress fighters, helping to regulate hormones levels and prevent breakouts."
GD: Can you take any supplements to help?
SC: "I would definitely recommend taking a skin supplement rich in zinc, Omegas and B-vitamins, like my new Overnight Facial Supplement (£46.00). These will help replenish lipids and help control oil production in the skin, whilst boosting its resilience and calming inflammation – another prime culprit for breakouts."