Roksanda Ilincic Autumn Winter 2015: Weaving A Glamorous Woman

The season for Roksanda Ilincic started with texture, and boy, could we see her work at play from the very beginning of today's show. Impressive tapestry weaves that screamed to be touched were frayed at the hems and created with contouring curves and swirls. These organic lines continued throughout in a sumptuous autumnal palette of purple, russet, tan, pumpkin and more, leading onto to fluffy curled shearling, precisely patchworked furs, grid work appliquéd onto culottes and tunics with raw-edge strips of jet black fabric. Stepping into the realm of after dark dressing, rectangular sequins piled upon each other to decorate and add structure to black eveningwear... Of course this all sounds like a great deal of detail, but ever the measured designer and being always in touch with what women want, Roksanda kept these many luxurious techniques separated out into different looks.

Alongside the autumnal palette - that was shot through with unexpected but oh-so-Roksanda-like jolts of fluoro pink and clashy cobalt blue - the full swishing ankle-grazing skirts, neat coat dresses, roll necks layered under shifts, wide striding culottes and waist nipping jackets and overcoats conjured up that period in the 1970s were the 1940s were drilled into for inspiration. The jaunty quiffs in each model's hair echoed this.

These girls looked glamorous but demure, the right kind of combination for a film noir heroine from a more decadent decade and it's true, Roksanda was inspired by movies this season more so than anything else. She name checked The Bitter Tears of Petra Von Kant by one of her favourite directors, Fassbinder, as the primary cinematic influence - a 1972 German flick of hazy light, languorous clothes and romantic interiors. Everyone would feel like a movie star in Roksanda's collection - Hollywood's top stylists are going to to have to fight this one out...

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