Rochas shall be celebrating a 90th anniversary this year, so it’s no wonder that Alessandro dell’Acqua finds great inspiration in the archives of this established Parisian fashion house. He does, naturally, take the look forward rather than remain in the past of the founding couturier and perfumer, Marcel Rochas; one look at the blogger-heavy FROW (from Candela Novembre to Gala Gonzalez, Alessandro had some of the hippest girls on the block) and you’ll see these vintage-tinged clothes have a modern audience.
Here’s what we’re liked from today’s show…
1. Marigold
The orange-yellow has shown up on more than a handful of runways now – making it perhaps the happiest addition to the winter palette we’ve seen since the baby pink boom a while back. Its very welcome and looked wonderfully off-kilter when paired with a kind of chesnut brown at Rochas.
2. Starlet style
There’s definitely an old school Hollywood vibe for autumn/winter’15 – enigmatic screen goddesses of that time have been popping up in New York, London and Milan already. Today’s woman felt sterner than most: more somber suiting, less skin on show, a more masculine vibe despite the many waist-cinched dresses. Think more Marlene than Marilyn.
3. Pretty Birds
Swallows were the motif du jour at Rochas today and they came swooping in via jet black beading, printed chiffon and embroidery. Allesandro found this inspiration from the arcives – a slinky gown from 1934, no less. This aviary felt free and certainly not caged – just like the aforementioned silver screen legend.
4. The Cocktail Cockatiels
The lace and mesh tiered baby-doll-ish dresses towards the end of the show had great movement – especially with feathers trimming seams and jiggling about. With granny pants on underneath we can see Rochas’ most adventurous girls trying to grab these for big events.
5. Black lingerie, pastel clothes
This combination gave the Rochas girl a bit of an edge – you would not have found a lady 70 years ago doing such a brazen thing. Today it just felt like a way to ground those pretty washed-out blue hues.
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Rochas Autumn Winter 2015
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