The tipping point for me was the Canada Goose Parka in the Vetements SS17 show.
Lusciously durable, plump with thermal down and water resistant with a two-way zipper and bungee ties. The hood was especially arousing. Everything leading up to that point slipped away into sartorial insignificance, and everything afterwards streamlined my desires into Stuff That Works.
I am not alone. A quick glance at the New In collections on the most prominent shopping sites shows that function is taking the lead on form in people’s shopping habits: the first 9 rows of Net-a-Porter’s boots selection is comprised of sturdy waterproof hiking boots (the waterproofness of Proenza Schouler’s tiger print calf hair ones yet to be verified). A glance over the rails at Goodhood shows capacious hoods and reflective strips on parkas aplenty. Even ASOS has its own exclusive collaboration with North Face.
It’s not surprising that our love for athleisure has snowballed into a love for performance gear. The seismic cultural shift from the pub into the gym, compounded with extreme weather trends across the planet, means that we need wardrobes that can handle Beasts from the East, floodwater rapids on our cycle to work and Friday nights that wind up with a moving meditation. We need all the track soled, ‘sweat-wicking’, multi-thermal garms we can get.
My AW18 shopping list:
performance wear aw18 shopping list grazia
1 of 8The North Face, 1990 Mountain Q Jacket in Red, £150, ASOS
I won't even wear this shrugged off the shoulders, just plain old zipped up to my chin with the hood strings pulled tight. See you later drizzle.
2 of 8Prada, Logo-Embossed Ankle Boots, £835, Net-A-Porter
Admittedly these are slightly ironic thanks to the superfluous buckled harness, but perhaps that detail can be used for hooking onto mountains in climbing activities.
3 of 8Junya Watanabe Men, Coat, £575, Goodhood
The bullet point list of techy features on this jacket (Reflective sleeve patches. Velcro adjustable cuffs) makes my mouth a little dry with excitement. Also, look at it.
4 of 8Dr Martens, 1460 Smooth, £130
Because let's be honest I probably won't be getting into those Prada ones any time soon, so these will be my slip resistant winter boots of choice. White for camouflage with the snow.
5 of 8Alo, Moonlit Running Leggings, £130
Be safe, be seen guys. Alo Yoga is my favourite yoga brand and they have made these reflective leggings especially for running from your yoga class to your home before the Deliveroo guy arrives.
6 of 8The People's Poncho, Hardy Navy Poncho, £65
Essential for anyone who cycles to work. Can even be worn over pale pink shearling (not practical) which it will completely protect in a storm (practical).
7 of 8Aday, Hail Yes Trackpants, £86
Activewear for the millennial, Aday makes tech pieces for all seasons and movements. Track pants to take you from slobbing to slick without a second thought.
8 of 8Track & Field, Quilted Vest, £107, Farfetch
The patron saint of functional clothing, the gilet is ready to have its time. A peek of padded tech fabric from underneath a tailored coat is very cool and very warm all at once.
'We have a long way to go before we catch up with the US in our activewear shopping habits’, says Reema Stanbury, founder of boutique gym chain BLOK and buyer for the gym’s shopping rails which are regularly replenished with ADAY, Wang and Les Girls Les Boys. ‘People have long been very price sensitive about functional wear. However, as activewear increasingly becomes every-wear, we are seeing this changing, and people are willing to invest’.
From an economical standpoint, it makes much more sense to invest your big bucks in the yoga leggings or track boots you’ll be wearing to and from the gym every week for a year, rather than the wide-cut tailored trousers that turn your legs into straws on a rainy walk to work. Plus, let’s face it, winter is a definite serotonin sapper. Why add to the daily anxiety of endless darkness, running noses and howling winds by putting on clothes that fail to deal with the task in hand? Women, it’s time to take arms against a sea of troubles and by opposing, end them.