Miu Miu Autumn/Winter 2015: Jezebel Spirit

As is customary, Miuccia Prada closed the Paris shows - and the international ready-to-wear season - with her Miu Miu collection this afternoon. The girl in question here was mad, bad, dangerous to know and had humour in spades.

She wore her heavy wool tartan and tweed high-waisted skirts very slightly too big and her baby knit sweaters - with a puffed sleeve and in sludgy shades - tucked in. Her shoes jarred colour-wise with her outfit. In fact, with their pointed toes, kitten or low curved heel, they just jarred. She loves an abstracted animal print, this girl - these were also seen at Dior and Celine this week - and wore those with boxy micro-mini shifts in emerald green or poppy red, say, and stamped with a crocodile motif.

Although legs throughout were bared, this was otherwise a covered look: striped cotton shirts were worn under said dresses. An exaggerated pie-crust frill graced more than a few looks, meanwhile, and was especially fine on a crystal studded shirtwaister. Such a radically conservative touch is very much at home here.

All the signatures of this label were in place: the granny bags, the oversized buttons, the studiously awkward colour and fabric juxtapositions and wonderful costume jewellery. The woman here was a tougher creature than the sugar - if twisted - debutante this designer dreamt up for her Prada collection shown at the beginning of this month in Milan though and she looked great.