Imagine anarchy gripping youth culture in 2015 and it's highly likely that - considering the rate at which we consume, produce and 'like' visuals - the look would a.) be surprisingly integral and b.) pivot around a total mash up of references past and present. This is precisely why Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier hit the bullseye with their third, and very non-comformist, collection for Marc by Marc Jacobs.
Solidarity was their girls' aim for autumn/winter'15 but that doesn't mean the clothes had to be unified by one overarching mode. Instead the design duo cherry picked signifiers from every kind of revolutionary movement: the hobble skirts of the suffragettes to the berets of 1960s rioting Parisians (they were made today by Judy Blame) through to Rastafarian red, yellow and green stripes and the seditionaries' all-important leather bondage gear. There were even DIY toolbox bumbags so the rebels could wreak havoc at any moment. Hillier and Bartley's tipex-white, shouty typefaces from the inaugural season also returned, plastered across hems, sleeves and the backs of tops and jackets just in case the rally's message couldn't be heard loud and clear.
Punky studded creepers and reappropriated cargo gear would've sat together coherently as one very stylish group as is, but Katie and Luella had yet another trick up their sleeves to separate their freedom fighters from your average: William Morris prints. These 19th century patterns may be more synonymous with chintzy home interiors but there is in fact a burgeoning comeback on the horizon - not to mention that in keeping with the MBMJ theme, during this artist's time he was quite the radical. An early social and a key founding member the arts and crafts movement, he was a creative saviour as the industrial revolution dramatically changed the western world.
The catwalk was pick'n'mix for sure but with a killer soundtrack of liberating tunes (Marc Bolan, The Clash and John Lennon to name a few) and a cohesive colour palette, this was a prime example of how the Brits do eclecticism better than anyone, anywhere. And that goes for music, morals and fashion.
Marc Jacobs NYFW 15
All photos: Marcus Tondo